Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I just went and unplugged the relay from the harness and plugged it back in. Everything works fine now. Weird? bad connection maybe?

Posted

While changing bulbs and redoing my headlight caps to a better seal I decided to increase the housings availability to breathe. I'm one of the guys who's completely stock lights had mild condensation GM said was normal. I noticed TRS sells and recommends Gore-Tex patches so I picked up some goretex and drilled the high beam caps with two large holes and covered them with the patches. No moisture gets in, but the housings breathe better now. I figured the high beam caps would be easily fixed if there is an issue. I also put another set of holes up high on the side of the housing.

 

 

 

 

post-204-0-15362800-1440798880_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

post-204-0-06368000-1440798882_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-15362800-1440798880_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-06368000-1440798882_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-15362800-1440798880_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-06368000-1440798882_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-15362800-1440798880_thumb.jpg

post-204-0-06368000-1440798882_thumb.jpg

Posted

I just went and unplugged the relay from the harness and plugged it back in. Everything works fine now. Weird? bad connection maybe?

 

Could be. I like these relays for critical items that need to be water resistant:

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TEO9GU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

 

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000VU9D0C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Posted

Just installed and tested out my new bulbs: Osram 66240 CBI's. They work great and are PURE white with my 35W morimoto ballasts. Pricey, but I think they were worth it. I did run into a ricer with a PNP HID kit and let's just say my FX-R's bi-xenons on high combined with Halogen high beams won. The light output in f'ing insane with all four linked together.

Posted

Im in the middle of the installing the morimoto silverado spec kit on a 2015 silverado and Im towards the end of this project and am confused as ever..

 

Does one of the OEM plugs not get used comming from the headlights? It all seems very straight forward and then i end up with this plug at the end with no where for it to go. Any help would be much appreciated. THanks.

Posted

Im in the middle of the installing the morimoto silverado spec kit on a 2015 silverado and Im towards the end of this project and am confused as ever..

 

Does one of the OEM plugs not get used comming from the headlights? It all seems very straight forward and then i end up with this plug at the end with no where for it to go. Any help would be much appreciated. THanks.

Correct, only one factory headlight plug is used to trigger the relay. The other you can tuck somewhere in the housing.

 

By the way, do you have projector and housings or reflector housings? Also, what have you done with the headlight covers? Did you somehow extend them out because when I attempted to put the cover on, there wasn't enough room with the HID bulb and plug for the cover to go back on.

Posted

I have the projectors for the low beams which are the ones I'm currently replacing. The directions say to drill a hole in the cover for the wires to pull through. Did you have to do that or are you saying that even after drilling in the covers the bulbs still poked through?

Posted (edited)

I have the projectors for the low beams which are the ones I'm currently replacing. The directions say to drill a hole in the cover for the wires to pull through. Did you have to do that or are you saying that even after drilling in the covers the bulbs still poked through?

That is correct. At least on my truck, I would have needed to extend out the covers. I scrapped the project until I can figure out what to do with the covers.

Edited by Lbsigman
Posted

Well I went on ahead with drilling out one of the covers anb you were absolutly correct. The light plug stuck trait out of the hole and you couldnt seal anything back up. I decided to drop back and punt as well. Im hopeing i can return the kit considering it was for a silverado and it doesnt fit like the instructions say. I really wanted the lights to work. I will be putting the silver stars in i guess like I probably should have anyways. Thank you for the help.

Posted

Well I went on ahead with drilling out one of the covers anb you were absolutly correct. The light plug stuck trait out of the hole and you couldnt seal anything back up. I decided to drop back and punt as well. Im hopeing i can return the kit considering it was for a silverado and it doesnt fit like the instructions say. I really wanted the lights to work. I will be putting the silver stars in i guess like I probably should have anyways. Thank you for the help.

Yup it's a total let down. I was super aggravated over it and luckily I only drilled one cover. I ended up keeping the kit but I need to figure out what to do with it. I do have 2 spare covers to play around with so maybe in the future I will try again.

Posted

I had a friend run into the same problem with his Chevy Volt projector light. He ended up buying some black abs tubing that was close to the same size as his projector cap and glueing it on as an extender after he drilled out the back. It didn't look bad after he was done with it.

Posted

Where did you find spare covers at? I patched mine with a plastic repair kit but It looks a little rigged up. I had rather have back to normal until I figure a better option out.

Posted

Where did you find spare covers at? I patched mine with a plastic repair kit but It looks a little rigged up. I had rather have back to normal until I figure a better option out.

I ordered 2 new covers from GM Parts Direct. Not cheap for what they are. After shipping, the total was like $56 for the pair. Part Number: 23215569

Posted

Having a bit of trouble with a TRS/Morimoto HID install.

Had a 2014 Sierra SLT that the following system was being used in:

9006: Morimoto Elite HID System

-2 x AMP: Morimoto 3Five DSP

-2 x 9006: 3Five 4300K $0.00

-2 x Canbus: 9006 $0.00

System was removed from the 2014 and placed in a 2015 Sierra SLT today. I can't for the life of me get the lights to work. Fuse looks good and after speaking with TRS I hit my ground contacts with sandpaper to remove some paint and ensure a good connection.

Any ideas? Did anything change from 2014 - 2015 that would prevent the system above from working?

Thanks in advance.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I thought I would use your thread and add to it as I just did my first longer drive with my truck in the last couple of days. I drove from the Grande Prairie area of Alberta down to Edmonton and most of where I drove in the city was the ring road so fairly free flowing but a bit of stop and go as well in the city. Stayed the night and returned home and not too many stops along the way each way but every restart and certainly every cold start sets it back for fuel mileage. Why I say that is I see some people will cherry pick a fuel mileage leg after the vehicle had been warmed up driveline wise before hand and its a forgiving ( easy rolling drive leg for example ) and call that their fuel mileage which can give a false perception of reality. I was not heavily loaded at all but never the less the flip bak cover, rubber bed mat, various tools etc and extra jerry cans of fuel all way up to a few hundred pounds of dead weight so its not an empty truck. The cold inflation tire pressures are set more near the freezing point so once they are warmed up driving I was showing 45 front and over 40 rear and realize high inflation pressures would help a little in fuel mileage but certainly not the ride on our crap sections of highway. The weather was good so was not raining as that can really drag mileage down, in fact I had a bit of a tail wind on average driving home. Most people on here would never have driven on that freeway to visualize it but its got a fair bit of rolling type of landscape with numerous river valleys. For the most part I had it on cruise set to 62 although kicking it off if I caught it in time before it started down shifting and self braking going down the grades. Most of the more substantial grades its shifting into 7th I believe as 8th just doesn't have it. Total distance round trip was 643 miles and my overall average and I did refuel three times in all, figured out to 17.65 miles per US gallon. My best fuel mileage section refuel within all of this figured out to 18.46 and these are all hand calculated figures. I find if anything that the trucks computer can be over optimistic, sometimes its pretty close but other times its stretching it. On paper persay in theory the truck would have just about made it on fumes for that whole drive without refueling once.    Which made me think of the topic thread of the wonder if these trucks could do 20 mpg and that is a good question, certainly would have to be on an easy going flat highway, no head wind, the right temperature, not packing around a bunch of dead weight and puttering along even slower than I was I would suspect and going steady and not stopping to smell the flowers or take a piss !. It probably is possible but not without effort to attain that with the wind resistance and weight of these trucks. Of course on my drive most people are passing me if they have the power as per loaded highway tractors, never mind a lot of speedy vehicles but the speed limit is 68 and most are at or well over that. 
    • Monday looks like a good day for the dealer to test an ac issue. Hopefully it all turns out good.
    • Paid $2.72 for E85 today.
    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...