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HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

MotoMedic
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jamboy22 Enthusiast

jamboy22

Posted
Posted

Correct me if I am wrong but i have 2014 lt with the non projector headlights. could i put the stock ltz/highcountry projector headlights in if I wanted? and everything would work correctly with same plug etc.

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MotoMedic
MotoMedic

**The Sierra & Silverado HID topics have been merged and edited, in an attempt to create one comprehensive HID topic**   This topic will cover HID information, HID headlight bulb upgrades, HID f

MotoMedic
MotoMedic

-----HID FOG LIGHTS-----   Installing HID fog light bulbs in the 2014's has so far been a mixed bag. Some members have installed operated them for months without incident, while others have had thei

FastWS6TA
FastWS6TA

What is your name? I will look you up and reply. You wouldn't believe the amount of emails we get in a day. It is staggering and the best we can do is quickly sift through them looking for the easiest

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Dunc Enthusiast

Dunc

Posted
Posted

I drilled holes in the center because thats what they want you to do.

Might not help you, but might help others in the future:

 

If you don't use the typical kit bulbs then drilling the caps is not necessary. The stock dust caps will fit with no modification. Then all you do is drill a single 3/8" (or 1/2" if you prefer) hole in the bottom of the headlight housing to get all the signal wiring to pass in/out of the housing.

Crf450r420 Enthusiast

Crf450r420

Posted
Posted

That is perfect. The $100 price tag kills it though.

Yeah, I flipped when it was like $275 for both the prototypes to get it right, but didn't want junk on my nice truck. I'm in the two for my truck around $650.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted (edited)

So the family and I are heading to Amarillo to stay the night and finish our trip to Colorado tomorrow. I stopped to adjust my passenger side fxr and I guess I adjusted up to far. It made a popping noise and went down. Now it won't adjust at all. Any suggestions or tips? For now I have to drive another 400 miles with only one projector aimed correctly.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Edited by 440hsp
Dangerdick Enthusiast

Dangerdick

Posted
Posted

So the family and I are heading to Amarillo to stay the night and finish our trip to Colorado tomorrow. I stopped to adjust my passenger side fxr and I guess I adjusted up to far. It made a popping noise and went down. Now it won't adjust at all. Any suggestions or tips? For now I have to drive another 400 miles with only one projector aimed correctly.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

 

The adjuster consists of a ball and socket joint mounted to a gearset that allowed you to adjust it.

 

Take the headlight out and you will find that the adjuster is removable with a quarter turn counter clockwise. You will see the arm with the ball on it. Extend it out fully by turning the adjuster and insert it back into the headlight, feeling it click back into the socket joint. Carefully adjust it in slightly to make room for you to reinstall the adjusted into the headlight housing. Adjust carefully or you will pop it out again, but no lasting damage should have been done

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dbutler212 Enthusiast

dbutler212

Posted
Posted

Correct me if I am wrong but i have 2014 lt with the non projector headlights. could i put the stock ltz/highcountry projector headlights in if I wanted? and everything would work correctly with same plug etc.

 

 

I have a set for sale on eBay if you're looking for a full setup.

Silva Enthusiast

Silva

Posted
Posted

Anyone encountered a problem with HID's running with the DRL's. I'm worried with my SLE they might melt the projector housing from being on all the time.

Mike1220 Senior Enthusiast

Mike1220

Posted
Posted

Anyone encountered a problem with HID's running with the DRL's. I'm worried with my SLE they might melt the projector housing from being on all the time.

I wouldn't worry about it. If it helps, I had a set of 55W HIDs and drove from Galveston to NOLA one night (we were ready to get home haha) and with traffic the drive took right under 8 hours and the headlights were on the whole time. Longest I had them on in one sitting and when I switched the projectors for FXRs, I took a look and they looked perfect.

NitroDatsik Senior Enthusiast

NitroDatsik

Posted
Posted

Anyone encountered a problem with HID's running with the DRL's. I'm worried with my SLE they might melt the projector housing from being on all the time.

I have 35watt hids and on one trip from Dallas to Houston at night, 4 hour drive. Both Headlights turned off around 3:30 hours. The relay fuse had melted. Don't know why but I just replaced the fuse and everything is fine.

 

2014 Silverado 2WT CC Summit White 4.3L V6

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440hsp Enthusiast

440hsp

Posted
Posted

 

The adjuster consists of a ball and socket joint mounted to a gearset that allowed you to adjust it.

 

Take the headlight out and you will find that the adjuster is removable with a quarter turn counter clockwise. You will see the arm with the ball on it. Extend it out fully by turning the adjuster and insert it back into the headlight, feeling it click back into the socket joint. Carefully adjust it in slightly to make room for you to reinstall the adjusted into the headlight housing. Adjust carefully or you will pop it out again, but no lasting damage should have been done

Thanks danger. Finally got my 55 watt ballasts in the other day. Pulled one headlight apart again to wipe some smudges I missed, put it back together and got it all buttoned up right before heading out on vacation. Then I messed it up on the trip out here. I was worried like hell I was going to be on vacation the whole time and not be able to use my new projectors in the mountains. Lol

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

sobe_zuki Enthusiast

sobe_zuki

Posted
Posted

For those of you with the Morimoto hid kit, what do I have to do with the capacitor/relay harness to make it work duing daytime running mode? I have an SLE and they work perfect at night but they won't come on during the day in auto mode and the relays buzz. I thought I saw what needs to be done but don't feel like reading through all the pages again.

 

Thanks!

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted

For those of you with the Morimoto hid kit, what do I have to do with the capacitor/relay harness to make it work duing daytime running mode? I have an SLE and they work perfect at night but they won't come on during the day in auto mode and the relays buzz. I thought I saw what needs to be done but don't feel like reading through all the pages again.

 

Thanks!

 

The HD relay plus capcitor kit should solve that. Put the capacitor kit between the stock headlight bulb plug and the relay and make sure the capcitor kit has a good ground.

RobZ71LM7 Enthusiast

RobZ71LM7

Posted
Posted (edited)

Morimoto FX-R 3.0” LHD Bi-Xenon

Fast Headlights brackets

Morimoto XB-35 ballast

Morimoto XB 4500K D2S bulbs

Morimoto HD relay w/ H11 adapter

Morimoto Capacitor kit

High beam splitter (for Bi-xenon plus OEM highbeam function)

Sirius LED Amber/White 7443 switchback bulbs (white sidemarker, amber signal)

6 ohm 50 watt resistors X4

 

I started with used LTZ housings and took them apart to clean up some dirt (they came without dust caps and someone had removed enough parts).

 

Here's what I did:

 

1) Baked @ 270 deg F for 22 minutes and seperated

2) Dremel w/burr bit to remove all factory permaseal from channels

3) Polished inside and outside of headlight lenses

4) Removed Amber sidemarker lenses

5) Installed Fast Headlight brackets and FX-R projectors-see NOTE below*

6) Killed each screw holding in projector with JB weld so it can never come loose

7) Wired bi-xenon leads to 9005 plug and plugged this into splitter with OEM high beam

8) Wired additional leads in parallel with turn signals**

9) Filled housing channels with 3M window weld butyl and heated to 220 deg F and pressed headlight back together

10) Installed 4500K HIS bulbs, 9011 high beam bulbs, and LED switchbacks

 

 

*Note: I did not care for the fact fastheadlights has you thread the upper brackets with 8-32 machine screws into a coarse slot. I chose instead to through drill the factory holes and replace the 8-32 1" long screws with 2" long screws and through bolt them for added security. I did not want to have to get back inside the headlights. Part of the reason I stripped the housings was so that I could have all 4 screws holding the projector rather than just 3.

 

**Note 2: I tapped into each turn signal lead in parallel with long wires and quick disonnects to allow me to remotely mount the resistors where they can easy be replaced in the future without rewiring or taking anything apart.

 

 

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Edited by RobZ71LM7

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