HID Headlight Bulbs / HID Projector Retrofit

[440hsp]

I was told to swap around wires also by a guy at TRS. Maybe the capacitor was blown by the time I changed it.

 

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[Creeper]

Yea take all the rubber trim off and open the bulb caps then bake on a cookie sheet

Appreciate the help. Thanks. What's everybody's thoughts on a delay for the hid setup? I know it's bad for the bulbs to be cycled on and off.

[jetfixer737]

Here's something that caught me by surprise this morning. As with most of us subscribing to OnStar I got my monthly vehicle condition report via email today. As usual it said everything is working normally EXCEPT for one unexpected message:

 

"Additional Maintenance Items"

"One or more items on this vehicle may require immediate service."

"Passenger Side Headlamp"

"Driver Side Headlamp "

"Please service soon."

Is this just a nuisance message or is it a real problem, and are the rest of you guys getting the message too?

(My HID's are working perfectly...I think)

Edited July 8, 2015 by jetfixer737

[440hsp]

That's weird. That would be messed up if the truck can rat us out for modifying the lights.

 

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[440hsp]

Guys I have a clear sealant on my 2015 headlights and taking them apart is a PIA!!! Been baking them over and over again and carefully prying at them. Scared I'm going to break the lense.

 

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[440hsp]

 

Well guys, I can honestly say this has been a pretty bad night in my book with getting these lights open. I have heated, reheated, and pryed all I could and still couldn't get one of these mother's open. These are by far the toughest lights I have ever tried to retrofit. This sealant is relentless.

 

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Edited July 10, 2015 by 440hsp

[440hsp]

I was trying not to Crack the lense but now it has gouge marks all around from where I've been trying to pry it open.

 

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[Dangerdick]

How long did you heat it for?

 

I have these lights down to half an hour each

[440hsp]

Success!!!! I have one open. Now on to the other one

 

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[440hsp]

Any advice on best way to clean the permaseal out of the channels?

 

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[Dangerdick]

Keep heating the backing and pick away with a straight blade

[oromero830]

I ordered the Morimoto Silverado spec HID kit from TRS with 35W ballasts and the 5500k H11B bulbs. I opened the package and started going through the components in the box. I was aware that some of the components would be different from the other Morimoto HID kits that other's had used previously on their silverado's by reading through page 67 of this forum and comparing what I saw to the instructions on this TRS link:

 

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/diy-installation-guides/guide-hid-bulbs-xb35-h-series.html

 

Up to page 67 I don't recall if anyone used the Morimoto Silverado Spec kit. in the attached picture you will see that this kit has amp igniters, not sure if other kits had those. From the link I see that the amp igniters plug into the ballasts and plug into the HID bulbs.

 

I have a couple questions and am hoping some of you can help. In the picture that I have attached you will see that the grommet has 2 sets of wires going through it: the HID bulb adapter (black and white wires) and wires that connect to the original low beam output (red and black). The red and black wires that go inside the low beam housing have these flat pin-like surfaces, no adapter. How do you connect those to the stock low beam adapter in the housing?

 

Also, the other end of the red/black wires has a male adapter that I believe plugs into a female adapter that comes from the relay harness (called the OEM on harness in pic). The other grommet also has 2 sets of wires, including the red and black wire that plugs into the stock low beam adapter in housing. What do I do with this 2nd low beam adapter wire in the other grommet? The relay harness only has 1 wire with a female adapter that I think only has to connect to 1 of 2 low beam adapters. Do I just cut it out of the grommet since it wont be used?

Edited July 11, 2015 by oromero830

[oromero830]

This is a follow-up to my previous post. I figured out that the flat pins can connect into the stock low beam adapter and I put some electrical tape around them on the passenger side. I also figured out that I don't need the red/black wire oem adapter on the driver side grommet so I removed it. The passenger side stock low beam adapter is plugged into the output that comes from the relay harness, and it has a capacitor link and a ground.

 

I got everything all wired up and I had some buzzing coming from the ballast that's connected to the driver side bulb. I made sure that my negative ground is grounded to bare metal as was suggested in previous posts. I removed the black paint from the washer, screw, and 45 degree brace. I swapped the ballasts and it was still buzzing. At first the buzzing is loud and it gets quieter but not completely as the bulbs warm up. I read Wendysorbust's post 1748 about his relay being fried. I decided to check that to make sure even though it's a brand new kit. Everything looked normal. When I plugged both relays back in, both ballasts are now buzzing. I've tried unplugging and plugging the relays several times and the blasts are still buzzing. I've double checked all connections. I'm going to call TRS tomorrow. Does anyone have any other ideas?

[440hsp]

I would say it's the capacitor due to the buzzing noise. I just finished my retro on my 2015 sierra and my Drl's aren't working in park so I'm having an issue also. They work when I have my headlights on and when I turn my fogs on. Might be due to my capacitor also but I'm not sure. Last time my capacitor wasn't working my lights wouldn't come on at all.

 

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Edited July 13, 2015 by 440hsp

[Creeper]

I installed the morimoto sierra spec edition over the weekend. Had a check engine light on the next day, but it cleared itself after a few ignition cycles. Is there anyway to prevent the lights from briefly shutting off when you start up the truck? For example, it's dark and you hit the unlock on the key fob and the lights come on. Then they go out just as the engine cranks over, then come back on.