Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

Is it that cramped under your hood?

 

You don't have the Duramax in your truck by what your sig says. Right behind the passenger side light is the massive airbox which butts up directly behind the headlight cover. But what really got me heated was that the factory headlight cap needs to be butchered in order for it to twist lock back on and the HID bulb and plug is too long for the factory cap to go back on.

 

Like I mentioned, I might revisit this at a later time when I have more patience and it's not so damn hot outside.

 

I do have some experience in HID retrofits but there is just no room, nor is it just "plug and play" with the Silverado Spec kit. Did a E46 retrofit in my 1996 Jeep Grand Cherokee I had 15 years ago. Lots of sanding and polishing to make the factory jeep lens crystal clear.

 

IMG_2501.JPG

 

IMG_2506.JPG

 

IMG_2508.JPG

Edited by Lbsigman
Posted

I currently have DDM 55W HID's and no problems with them so far other than the color of lights don't match and it drives me crazy. I actually have an extra set of DDM bulbs, but they are shit and can't get them to seat properly, plus like the ones I have now, they all seem to be a little shade off of each other. I was going to order some TRS bulbs to replace my DDM I have in there now. What does everyone find matches up with the LED DRL's best? my 5K 55W match pretty good. Should I go with the 4500K or 5500K from TRS?

 

These are the bulbs I'm planning on ordering.

http://www.theretrofitsource.com/components/bulbs/morimoto-xb35-9012-hir-hid-bulbs.html#.VdSsxflVhBc

Posted

Think most are doing 4500K with the 35 watt so you will need 5000 or 5500K with the 55watt. Not sure which would be the best. My 50 watt 6000K matches my LED lights at 5000K pretty well.

 

Sent from my SM-N900V using Tapatalk

Posted

I'm running 55watt morimoto ballasts with osram cbi's and they match the Drl's pretty well.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

fe7461569c38a4831fc4a17e2d034bad.jpg

 

Here's a quick pic of mine with the 55watt ballasts and the osram bulbs.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N910A using Tapatalk

Posted

Projectors? And no issues I guess?

No he's got the LT so they're reflection housings. No issues yet that I know of but he's only had them since May.

Posted (edited)

Anyone have pics of the back of a sierra headlight after HIDs? I'm curious to see how you guys did the wires. I cut mine, drilled a small 1/4in hole dead center of the cap. Ran the wires through and spliced them back together. They applied a small amount of RTV to was little gap there was left.

Edited by zmnypit
Posted (edited)

Hey guys I need some help. I would contact TRS but they are closed for the weekend.

 

I ordered the TRS Sierra Spec HID kit 35w 5500k. When I was inspecting the components I noticed something different about the relay harness they sent me. I thought that there would be 3 negative ground wires (one for each ballast and one for the capacitor).

The relay I received only has one long negative ground wire connecting to the relay. The other negative comes from the capacitor. There are no negative ground wires from the inputs to the ballasts. So total I only have 2 negative ground wires.

 

Is this right? The packaging that the relay came in has the 9005/9006/H11 box checked off.

Edited by Angel27
  • Like 1
Posted

Anyone use 55w in stock Silverado housings?

 

I have 55w Ballast with 6000k bulbs. I love it. Lights up everything real nice. No issues if you get the relay and capacitors in the right order.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...