Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

How do you like that 2" fabtech level? Is it aluminum? I also want a bit rake left when I get one.

 

I'm very happy with the 2" Fabtech kit. They're billet and beautiful. I paid a little more than some of the other level kits out there, but I think this is a better quality product as well.

  • Like 2
Posted

Is anyone running the 3.5" from Rough Country? I have not seen anything posted on it for the new body style?

Posted

Is anyone running the 3.5" from Rough Country? I have not seen anything posted on it for the new body style?

i wouldn't go over 3" IMO

 

 

Sent from Tapashit

Posted (edited)

I agree with GGZ71, and would not exceed a 3" lift on any truck, doing so does two things....

 

....either requires extensive and further investment in aftermarket suspension and steering assist components that are generally produced for the true off-roading arena (not street) or ...

 

...escalates the vehicle into a market place that will not attract a high number of potential buyers when that time comes as evident by the high number of seriously lifted trucks we all see on used car lots.

 

At the end of the day, its still a small market of consumers who want trucks with extreme lifts/mods.

 

to each his own we all say and honor, just my opinion that too much is not necessarily a good thing.

Edited by Rewillia
Posted

I've had a 4" level before, rode like ass. 3" was much better. And 2.5" felt like stock. Now I did have aftermarket Ucas for the 3" level but still Wouldn't go over 3"

 

 

Sent from Tapashit

Posted

za6aquby.jpg

 

2.5 in proryde leveling kit with 295-55-20 toyo mt's

 

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk

  • Like 3
Posted

Question for you guys running the RC 2.5" kit and 295/60/20s or 305/55/20s on stock wheels:

 

Are you getting rubbing on the sway bar or any other part of the frame or suspension when the wheels are at full lock?

Posted

Ok, so I finally ordered the RC 2.5" level kit. My new wheels and tires will be next on Friday. From what I have read on here, if I just put the front level kit on and not the rear blocks, that will level the truck with no front higher or lower than the rear. Level. Am I correct in thinking this?

Posted

I've ordered a 2" levelling kit for my truck and I'm planning on running a 275/70/18, but my question is will that tire still work if I switch rims to an 18x9 with an 18mm or 0mm offset? Or should I go with a 285/65/18?

Posted

Ok, so I finally ordered the RC 2.5" level kit. My new wheels and tires will be next on Friday. From what I have read on here, if I just put the front level kit on and not the rear blocks, that will level the truck with no front higher or lower than the rear. Level. Am I correct in thinking this?

 

No that is incorrect. The 2" front leveling kit will do that for you but if you did 2.5" in the front your rear would be lower.

Posted

 

No that is incorrect. The 2" front leveling kit will do that for you but if you did 2.5" in the front your rear would be lower.

 

Crap I ordered the 2.5". I thought as I read through this thread the measurements with the 2.5 and stock rear block were the closest. Dang it.

Posted

 

Crap I ordered the 2.5". I thought as I read through this thread the measurements with the 2.5 and stock rear block were the closest. Dang it.

2.5 and stock rear block will sit you dead level

 

 

Sent from Tapashit

  • Like 1
Posted

I just got done reading this thread AGAIN! Yes 2.5" with the stock block I should be pretty damn close to level. Now time to order my wheels and tires tomorrow!! Cant wait to get this done.

Posted (edited)

I am getting ready to order an 1.5" leveling kit for my truck and have a question.

 

The only two 1.5"ers I see are made by ReadyLift and FatBob's Garage. The ReadyLift is $229.95 and and FatBob's is $79.95....what is the difference? I mean they are just metal pucks/spacers. Is the RL 3X better? HaHa

 

FatBob's

50150Large4.jpg

 

ReadyLift

thm_lrg_PAG663080~photo.1.jpg

Edited by Newm

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
    • It is 4wd. shop told me it is the slip yoke. But not sure.
    • No, I did not tune out vvt. From what I read it should still be able to run without it, it'll just lose some torque/power.    I can see how that would make it not run correctly, but why would that cause the faulty MAF readings?   EDIT: I just ran a quick test and checked, and as I expected, the computer sees that the VVT cam phaser solenoid is not present, and throws a code for it, and does not try to change the cam angle at all. Commanded position just remains at zero, 100% of the time. This makes me think that the VVT is most likely not the cause of the problem though if anyone has a different/better explanation, I'm all ears.   UPDATE: I was able to find that my scan tool does indeed support reading the frequency (hz) off of the MAF (I thought it wasn't supported but turns out I just didn't know where to look for it). I noticed that regardless of engine state it always however this Is not what I observed with my multimeter. Like I said before, the MAF seems to put out a normal signal during cranking and then the signal drops to a very erratic reading once the engine is running. It seems from what my scan tool is telling me that the ECM is not recognizing this at all, and just reads 0 Hz 100% of the time. This pushes me towards the the PCM itself is faulty. I I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle, which I may try to connect and program (it's only ~50 bucks to get the software for a one-time programming)
    • Did you tune out the VVT?  07-09 they did not have VVT.  2010-2013 they did.      If you haven't tuned it, its trying to adjust cam timing.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...