Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Here's mine so far. RC 2.5" level/Lift 20" XD mavericks w/ 275/60/20 KO2's removed assist steps HIDS on front w/ LED fogs LED reverse/license plate lights tinted windows. Need to figure out what I'm going to do as far as a sub and shell probably be done/DSC_0283_zpso6iax4jt.jpg]\

DSC_0284_zpsjjtascnb.jpg

  • Like 3
Posted

i just recently bought a new 2015 gmc sierra AT package having a 2.5 RC level installed this week and just ordered 285/60/20 duratracs....am i gonna run into any rubbing issues...i see most people here are running a 295 or 305 with small to no rubbing issues. any input would be appreciated thanks.

usually those running 295 or 305 are running a 18" or a shorter tire. Im running 275 no rubbing it would be getting close w/ 295 pending on tire. You may have non or just a tiny bit

Posted (edited)

I own FastHeadlights LLC and we do work on headlights all the time. I just took the orange out and replaced with some switchback turn signals :)

 

Do you have a link or a video on how to modify the lights?

Edited by rubens megatron
Posted

I just did a lot of work on my lights. Used the same method to open them that Phil does. Check it out, may help you out

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/index.php?/topic/171698-Mike1220%27s-SLT-Sierra-halos%2C-color-change-DRLs%2C-and-FXR-retrofit-w

oh, I was kind of hoping it was available as a preassembled after market item like a plug n play. I wouldn't want to risk messing them up, so id rather pay a little extra for a prefabbed pair, but thanks for the link and the info

Posted

4" leveling kit with 2" blocks in rear

Could you post a couple more pics? That stance looks perfect. What's you wheel and tire combo?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Just did a custom leveling kit. RC 2" Spacer in the front and bilstein 5100 struts at .6 lift. And in the rear I used the 2" RC block and bilstein 5100 shocks.

 

The truck rides 100% better then stock Rancho Shocks. Smooth and controlled over bumps and that stupid hope the rear end used to do is now gone.

 

Front end is 39.75 and rear is 40.75.

 

Super happy with stance and ride. Would recommend this setup.

  • Like 2
Posted

Just did a custom leveling kit. RC 2" Spacer in the front and bilstein 5100 struts at .6 lift. And in the rear I used the 2" RC block and bilstein 5100 shocks.

 

The truck rides 100% better then stock Rancho Shocks. Smooth and controlled over bumps and that stupid hope the rear end used to do is now gone.

 

Front end is 39.75 and rear is 40.75.

 

Super happy with stance and ride. Would recommend this setup.

 

Got any pics? This is what I was going to do but held of because I wasn't sure how the ride would be.
Posted (edited)

Could you post a couple more pics? That stance looks perfect. What's you wheel and tire combo?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes more pics & i agree perfect stance but where did you get the level kit from? Edited by cameronfaber
Posted

Just did a custom leveling kit. RC 2" Spacer in the front and bilstein 5100 struts at .6 lift. And in the rear I used the 2" RC block and bilstein 5100 shocks.

 

The truck rides 100% better then stock Rancho Shocks. Smooth and controlled over bumps and that stupid hope the rear end used to do is now gone.

 

Front end is 39.75 and rear is 40.75.

 

Super happy with stance and ride. Would recommend this setup.

Very interested in this setup as well. So I second the pics request. Lol
Posted (edited)

Has anyone else noticed a mark where their spindles and lower control arm are coming in contact after leveling? I have the mark on both sides on the front side of the lower control arm. xLwiYs7.jpg

Edited by projectsummit

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I agree, there is no one answer fits all as every rig is different, one may be pulling some little aluminum fishing boat while another is towing a monstrosity that weighs a lot and hopefully the owner if the rig has some prior experience to know what drive mode they should choose.    It also struck me and this is from watching a few of those boat ramp escapades videos in the past, Ford being one of the vehicles that has the auto front axle hubs and sure enough its found out that one hub has crapped out and won't engage and may not have manual hubs to even select on both sides so they are on the boat ramp stuck with no four wheel drive and spinning .... they flat out need a tow to get up the ramp and deal with the vehicles new found issues. That can happen to all brands of pickup, finding out either four wheel drive or 4 low isn't working right at the time its needed it to work as some electronic crap has failed. 
    • Its possible you never had the joy of the crappy boat launches we tend to have around here or really some of them are just grades down to the river if its a river scenario and the conditions change all the time with the river levels and silt deposits. Some of the lakes we went to years ago, there was no such thing as a cement pad that went down into the water that the trailer stayed on, it was gravel maybe up to the water line and then duck crap much beyond that so sinking the boat tires into mud. Of course some of the more established lakes had a cement bar type boat ramp but sometimes it was covered in green slime closer and certainly within the water and a two wheel drive had all sorts of fun if one had to touch that slime with the rear tires.    A neighbor of mine had made a comment years back with his chev truck that was probably about the same year as yours but a half ton extended cab 4x4 and he a a fiberglass boat with an inboard so it wasn't a feather weight and he had gone out to one of the large popular lakes in the area and don't ask me how this happened but he was in two wheel drive as he figured he didn't require four wheel drive for that boat ramp and somehow upon pulling the boat out he twisted one of his drive axles. I suspect it must have spun and then grabbed on the cement ramp and shocked it to the degree of twisting it. He would have had the standard 8.5 or whatever it was axle housing as the 9.5 ring gear like my truck has also has larger drive axles as far as I know. Anyway he was feeling a vibration driving home and had it checked out and a shop found that the tire/hub was wobbling because of the axle had twisted so in went a new drive axle. After that bad experience he said he made sure to put it into four wheel drive to lower the stress on the rear axle. Of course that is where an HD truck can handle a lot more stress and no doubt these newer half tons with their larger ring gears probably have larger drive axles as well to match vs back in the day. 
    • Desirable - as in does someone WANT one, aspire to have one. Could reasonably buy any car they want and CHOOSE these instead.    I didn't watch the video, why did they win?
    • The use of absolutes like "always" to describe gear selection, and giving free advice at a boat ramp sounds like a recipe for disaster. It's a boat ramp, not a farm, for starters.   IMO gear selection should depend on the obstacle. If low range is working and this is a slower speed, controlled ordeal, I'd keep using that.
    • I had a boat for many years, never had a problem even with a 2 wheel drive 93 Silvy for 20 years. Good tires, proper use of the gas pedal worked.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...