Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Your truck looks great. Did you have any rubbing issues with the +1 offset?

 

 

Over the last month I have been "building" my truck. I read EVERY post on this thread. Thanks folks! RCX 2.5" front level only, 20" fuel Mavericks +1 off set, Toyo Open country ATII

  • Like 1
Posted

Hey everyone, new here. Figured I'd contribute after spending about a week reading through this thread. End up going with the rough country 2.5 front only. I think it sits awesome now. I just installed yesterday, here's the after pic

post-148461-0-82693900-1442677414_thumb.jpeg

post-148461-0-82693900-1442677414_thumb.jpeg

post-148461-0-82693900-1442677414_thumb.jpeg

post-148461-0-82693900-1442677414_thumb.jpeg

  • Like 2
Posted

The 305/65/18's that were posted look really great. I'd say that's probably about the max size, without doing any trimming. Some other popular sizes to consider with a level kit are 275/70/18, 305/60/18, 285/65/18, and 33x12.50x18.

Thanks for the info.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Well my Ready Lift 1.5 inch leveling kit turned into new tires then the new Hypertech 2.0 tuner to fix my speedo error. I love the look now.

 

3d1872a897b65f9d411bb82a516b73cd.jpg

3504479c40958d10dded5eea333db242.jpg

3a9ef5a8211c3d772cede48fdbfb0bda.jpg

 

Tires-General Grabber AT2 LT275-70-18 with Zero rubbing.

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Edited by themiltonkid
  • Like 5
Posted

I installed a 2 inch leveling kit a few weeks ago and I notice when I turn sometimes I feel like a clunky noise it is very slight though and it's on sometimes. I went under and looked at everything it all looked tight the steering feels the same as before and there's no vibration. Am I just be to picky here or is it something else?

Posted

Fox 2.0 Coilovers set at 2.25", Fox 2.0 rear, and RC 2" rear block. Truck rides great!

 

post-138528-0-90522400-1442833695_thumb.jpg

post-138528-0-90522400-1442833695_thumb.jpg

post-138528-0-90522400-1442833695_thumb.jpg

post-138528-0-90522400-1442833695_thumb.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

Installed 2" RC level yesterday. My steering wheel is off center to the left about 45 degrees now when driving straight down the road. Still rides nice other than that. Scheduled for new tires and alignment this week. Will that fix the steering wheel issue?

Thanks

Edited by cato
Posted

Installed 2" RC level yesterday. My steering wheel is off center to the left about 45 degrees now when driving straight down the road. Still rides nice other than that. Scheduled for new tires and alignment this week. Will that fix the steering wheel issue?

Thanks

Yes an alignment will fix your steering wheel being off centered.. Anytime you change your front suspension

Posted

Finally added a 2" RC level front and 2.25" Ready Lift blocks in back yesterday. Tires and wheels are still stock 18" Z71. Gotta say it still rides same as stock before the level. New BFG KO2's are scheduled to be put on Friday. This set will be my winter swap set. In Spring I'm planning a 5" RCX lift with new 20" rims and tires for the nice weather months. Curious to see how stiff the ride is when the new tires are put on the end of the week. I'll post some pics before and after next weekend.

Posted

Your truck looks great. Did you have any rubbing issues with the +1 offset?

 

 

Oh yeah. It was 'loud' but I noticed that since I've put about 2k on the tires. It has gone down dramatically. To be honest it was only in reverse

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm thinking about these exact tires for my winter set. Do they rub the sway bar at full lock in either direction?

No. There is only a slight rub at full lock on the rear side of the fender liner, which I zip-tied back to fix it.

Posted (edited)

I installed a 2 inch leveling kit a few weeks ago and I notice when I turn sometimes I feel like a clunky noise it is very slight though and it's on sometimes. I went under and looked at everything it all looked tight the steering feels the same as before and there's no vibration. Am I just be to picky here or is it something else?

Could be a Sway bar .

Edited by TheFactor
Posted (edited)

Well my Ready Lift 1.5 inch leveling kit turned into new tires then the new Hypertech 2.0 tuner to fix my speedo error. I love the look now.

 

3d1872a897b65f9d411bb82a516b73cd.jpg

3504479c40958d10dded5eea333db242.jpg

3a9ef5a8211c3d772cede48fdbfb0bda.jpg

 

Tires-General Grabber AT2 LT275-70-18 with Zero rubbing.

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

Same lift size, tires and valence trim idea I will eventually do to mine.

 

How much did you trim on that lower valence and what method did you use (jig saw, sheet metal sheers, cut off wheel, something else)? Did your method workout well or would you go another route?

 

Awesome set up, extended cabs are still my favorite look!

 

Tyler

Edited by amxguy1970
Posted

Same lift size, tires and valence trim idea I will eventually do to mine.

 

How much did you trim on that lower valence and what method did you use (jig saw, sheet metal sheers, cut off wheel, something else)? Did your method workout well or would you go another route?

 

Awesome set up, extended cabs are still my favorite look!

 

Tyler[/quote

 

Hey thanks!

 

I used a jig saw at first then a dremel tool and eventually a block planer to even everything out.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

ecc71164c82029d1fa1bf7e6c927038b.jpg

 

New Cooper Stt pro, 2" level 295/55

nice ride!! any shots down the side? I'm wanting to run a 20x9 0 offset with STT pro 295/60/20. 2.5" leveling kit. these will be 1" taller and stick out 1/2" more.

Thanks.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...