Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
bcbz71, on 15 Jan 2016 - 3:45 PM, said:

Take out the ReadyLift struts (and sell them) and put your original struts back in. Get a RC 2.5 level kit with rear blocks and install it. Maintains close to your factory ride with just a little loss in suspension travel. Get a FE alignment and you are ready to roll. Any shop that does your FE alignment can fix your steering wheel....it's part of an alignment package and I wouldn't leave or pay until the wheel is perfectly straight.

great thanks again for the help!

Posted

If you want more travel, more adjustment in the alignment, and better angles for your ball joints, etc get aftermarket UCA's from Cognito or Camburg.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Posted

Posting this for @Greg24v

 

He is currently running a leveling kit with-44 offset and 305/50/20 tires

 

post-133084-0-69239400-1452912390_thumb_

truck%202_zpsnvkwk3pp.jpeg

 

Here is all that needed to be trimmed to get the wheels to fit.

 

trim1_zps4ccimksi.jpeg

 

In these pictures you can see where he used a pair of snips to trim the plastic back a little. But then there's metal under it , he used a grinder and ground it down until it cleared. Then hit it with a touch of black spray paint. Can't really notice it unless you're leaning down there looking at it close.

 

trim2_zps0unflzsi.jpegtrim3_zpsm4nrtxfd.jpeg

 

This was before he put a little sand paper on black paint on it to smooth it down better.

Also, he poked a hole with a pocket knife about 2" up from the bottom on the fender well, through the fabric/carpet stuff and put 2 zip ties thru it and pulled it back a little to help. He just put the zip tie around a bolt where the body connects to the frame. I don't have a pic but if you look right under your truck you'll see a hole or that bolt you can put a zip tie around. He used 2 each side.

 

Also here is the tire info, so you can compare that to whatever tire your interested in. There are definitely some ATs and MTs that would fit that size.

Tire Specs
Brand: Nitto
Model: NT420S
Aspect Ratio: 50
Inflated Diameter: 32.05
Inflated Width: 12.44
Load Index: 120
Max Load Pressure: 3086@50
Revs Per Mile: 648
Section Width: 305
Service Description: 120H
Sidewall: Black
Size: 305/50R20
Speed Index: H
Tempature: A
Tire Rim Diameter: 20
Tire Type: All Season
Traction: A
Tread Depth: 13.6
Tread Wear: 460
Weight: 46.3

 

Message greg24v if you have any other questions.

Posted

I've spent the last couple of nights up late browsing this thread and its been a wealth of information. Just got the RC 2.5 leveling kit installed on my 2015 and will likely swap the 2 inch rear block for the stock 1 inch for a more even stance. Next week should be Ultra wheels and new tires.. I'll wait to post pics until then.

 

Anyone else have a truck on RC2.5 and stock rear block?

Posted

Yes, I installed the 2.25 ready lift on the front and the rear is stock. It has a very slight rake (high in the front). You can only tell because you can see it on the step assist tubes along the sides. I am getting a snug top installed this weekend and am contemplating adding 1" to the rear to compensate.

Posted

Has anybody ran 2 inch spacers with 33x12.50 on stock wheels yet? I think it could be done just not sure

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Posted

Anybody use the Fox coilovers for their lift? Any feedback? I know they are more expensive than the Bilsteins, but which is the better way to go, if the price does not matter?

Posted

Has anybody ran 2 inch spacers with 33x12.50 on stock wheels yet? I think it could be done just not sure

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Dont think it's needed as just with a level mine has minor rubbing at full lock..... And my tires are about a 33.5x12.5

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

Posted

Installing the Motofab 2" leveling blocks was a failure today -- couldn't get them in with the Z71 shocks.

 

I loosened the sway bar and removed the shocks bolts -- wouldn't budge enough.

I loosened the upper ball joint and tried again -- almost got it in.

 

Took the sway bar bolt out completely and loosened the top strut bolt closest to me -- nope

 

Finally took the upper ball joint nut off completely and still couldn't get it lined up.

 

I finally quit and put it back together--not sure if I will try to it again or let someone else deal with it now.

Posted

Installing the Motofab 2" leveling blocks was a failure today -- couldn't get them in with the Z71 shocks.

 

I loosened the sway bar and removed the shocks bolts -- wouldn't budge enough.

I loosened the upper ball joint and tried again -- almost got it in.

 

Took the sway bar bolt out completely and loosened the top strut bolt closest to me -- nope

 

Finally took the upper ball joint nut off completely and still couldn't get it lined up.

 

I finally quit and put it back together--not sure if I will try to it again or let someone else deal with it now.

On the Z71 (4x4) you have to disconnect the upper ball joint completely from the upper A arm to allow enough room for the knuckle to drop in order to insert the new longer bolt for the spacer.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Posted

I went back after reading the Motofab instructions and ignoring the videos online--I had to (as Hawk said above) completely disconnect my upper ball joint to get the room. I also had to use a jack to lift up the lower control arm and then use my body weight to push down on the upper to get it back in place. I also had to do the same for the sway bar bolt and also to put the wheels on.

 

If you have a regular old 2-1/4 ton floor jack--get blocks! Or be smart and get a 3-ton 20" reach jack (I should have done that). I couldn't get the wheels back on.

 

Now the upsetting news--buddy of mine got a pro comp 2.25" top strut level kit installed; his truck is 39" all the way around. I unfortunately did not get the same results--I am not sure why my truck leans more one way--maybe my garage isn't level. I'm going to try and find some level ground again to measure it.

 

Here are my measurements currently;

 

Before the level

Front driver 36-1/4

Front passenger 36-1/4

Rear driver 38-11/16

Rear passenger 38-11/16

After the level

Front driver 38-9/16

Front passenger 38-3/8

Rear driver 38-3/4

Rear passenger 38-3/4

 

Lastly, a photo to review. The truck goes into tomorrow for new tires and alignment.

 

post-151507-0-82104100-1453149591_thumb.jpg

 

On the Z71 (4x4) you have to disconnect the upper ball joint completely from the upper A arm to allow enough room for the knuckle to drop in order to insert the new longer bolt for the spacer.

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

 

 

Thanks hawk! That is exactly what I needed to do.

post-151507-0-82104100-1453149591_thumb.jpg

post-151507-0-82104100-1453149591_thumb.jpg

post-151507-0-82104100-1453149591_thumb.jpg

Posted

I went back after reading the Motofab instructions and ignoring the videos online--I had to (as Hawk said above) completely disconnect my upper ball joint to get the room. I also had to use a jack to lift up the lower control arm and then use my body weight to push down on the upper to get it back in place. I also had to do the same for the sway bar bolt and also to put the wheels on.

 

If you have a regular old 2-1/4 ton floor jack--get blocks! Or be smart and get a 3-ton 20" reach jack (I should have done that). I couldn't get the wheels back on.

 

Now the upsetting news--buddy of mine got a pro comp 2.25" top strut level kit installed; his truck is 39" all the way around. I unfortunately did not get the same results--I am not sure why my truck leans more one way--maybe my garage isn't level. I'm going to try and find some level ground again to measure it.

 

Here are my measurements currently;

 

Before the level

Front driver 36-1/4

Front passenger 36-1/4

Rear driver 38-11/16

Rear passenger 38-11/16

After the level

Front driver 38-9/16

Front passenger 38-3/8

Rear driver 38-3/4

Rear passenger 38-3/4

 

Lastly, a photo to review. The truck goes into tomorrow for new tires and alignment.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_5259.JPG

 

 

 

Thanks hawk! That is exactly what I needed to do.

No problem. I did the 2" MotoFab on the bottom and also added the .5" above the strut. I did not do the rear at all.

post-153174-145315214892_thumb.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

post-153174-145315214892_thumb.jpg

post-153174-145315214892_thumb.jpg

post-153174-145315214892_thumb.jpg

Posted

You don't have to completely disconnect the upper ball joint, but you do have to loosen all of the top strut mount nuts, not just the one closest to you. For some reason the driver's side is hardest. My passenger side took 20 minutes and I didn't have to struggle nearly as much.

Posted

You don't have to completely disconnect the upper ball joint, but you do have to loosen all of the top strut mount nuts, not just the one closest to you. For some reason the driver's side is hardest. My passenger side took 20 minutes and I didn't have to struggle nearly as much.

On my 15 Z 4x4 simply loosening the upper bj and loosening the upper strut three nuts was not enough. There was just not enough drop in the lower A arm to clear the CV axle. Note, I did add the .5" upper strut spacer first.

 

Sent from my Nexus 5 using Tapatalk

Posted

Motofab called for bolts to go in top down with nuts below. I had to take the steering link off so I could rotate the hub to clear the bolt hole under the CV shaft. It was definitely a lot to do but so much better.

 

My only concern is the upper ball joint nut. I can't torque it due to having to put Allen key in. I tightened it until it wouldn't anymore. I assume that is correct?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,924
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    KirbyCo
    Newest Member
    KirbyCo
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 2 Anonymous, 1,134 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I will be doing that for sure, but I need to solve who has/ where I can find a bidirectional scan tool that will support OBD 1.5. I'm kicking myself because I ebay'ed a Snap On MT2500 that I didn't think I'd ever need anymore. D'oh!! I'd rather not buy another, so I'll contact a few local shops to see if they have one and how much they'd want to do the procedure. I'd rather have the ability to do it myself... I wish there was a modern tool that could do it all, but I'd have no idea what to buy.   The theory with the pulled timing is that it mimics a rich condition. The delayed spark causes incomplete burn and the O2 sensor picks up low oxygen levels. That's interpreted as a rich condition so the PCM pulls fuel and that shows up in the deeply negative fuel trims.
    • An ultra wealthy man had the most beautiful daughter. But, there was a problem. Everything she touched would melt in her hands. No matter what, Metal, Wood, Stone. Anything she touched would melt. She could not feed herself. Because of this, men were afraid of her. Nobody would dare marry her. Her father was despaired. What could he do to help his daughter? He consulted doctors, scientists and anybody who could solve this problem. Finally one of them said, "If your daughter touches one thing that does not melt in her hands, she will be cured." He was overjoyed and came up with a plan. The next day, he held a competition. Any man who could bring his daughter an object that would not melt in her hands would be given billions of dollars to marry her. Three extremely intelligent and handsome young men took up the challenge. The first brought a very heavy steel rod, But alas, when the she touched it, it completely melted in a matter of seconds. He sadly went away. The second brought a beautiful diamond, knowing diamonds were one of the hardest substance in the world and would not melt. But alas, once she held it in her hand, it melted. He too was sent away disappointed. So now, there was one left He was very nervous & sweating. He approached the daughter & said, “put your hand in my pants pocket and feel what is in there." She did exactly what he asked. She felt something very hard. She held it in her hand, squeezing it as hard as she could. It did not melt & remained extremely hard. Her father was overjoyed. Everybody was overjoyed. She was finally cured. Nothing never, ever melted in her hand again. They married and they both lived happily ever after, raising a wonderful family. Question: What was in the the groom’s pants pocket??? Answer below ↓ M&Ms of course! They melt in your mouth, not in your hand. What on earth were you thinking?
    • There's a bunch of tea leaves that you've read, but in any case the delayed timing is unusual. Not sure how that relates to the rich at idle vs. 'normal' while driving.   If you're in this deep, might be worth investigating, and re-learning the sensor. What have you got to lose? Plus, it properly fixes the timing cover leak.
    • The only problem I have seen this cause is longer crank times. 
    • Injector is being sent off today for rebuild and I estimate I'll have it back in 10 days or so.   It may not be the injector...of course...now that I've torn down the intake again. But, let's rule out the injector and replace those spider legs that have been almost rubbed through.   The truck has always had negative timing and I'm reading "normal" timing at warm idle should be +16 or so. I'm negative 16 to 25 or more, and it's always been like that since I bought it.   A light turned on upstairs last night in the old noggin. Rare, I know...   This will be wild, if it turns out to be the cause!   In 2001, according to the old service documentation, the muffler was replaced. Why? I have no idea, it wouldn't have been rusted through by then. But they did a crappy job.   In 2019, another shop replaced it and noted the prior install was poorly done on the work order. "Exhaust system vibrates on crossmember". Except...I guess they just left it be? I believe the husband, the couple who were original owners, had passed by then. Maybe she said it's just not worth it to have the exhaust system fixed and declined repairs. Very few miles were driven between 2019 and 2025.   The exhaust system vibrates heavily on the crossmember and you can feel it and REALLY hear it, even today. Not always, but at idle, it gets going pretty good sometimes.   What if....   ....What if that's enough to trigger one or both of the knock sensors? Could it be tricking the sensors into sensing knock, so it's pulling timing aggressively? Pulling timing heavily means it's firing after the piston reaches full height which means incomplete burn which means the O2 sensor is sensing a rich condition, which means I've been chasing my tail, and what I thought was an inconsequential problem (janky exhaust) has been THE issue for this truck for 25 solid years?   That would be wild. Maybe it IS wild.   The service documentation thereafter, for years, shows visits for rough idle, replacing O2's, replacing the cat, replacing plugs and wires, a misfire condition, like they could never solve the issue. The injector has been replaced 4 times in 80k miles, that's just crazy.   The secondary theory....   The engine has clearly had a leak at the front seal for a very long time (the greasy trench...). I think the truck changed hands quickly ~2025 because there's Napa receipts from someone I don't recognize in the ownership history. They apparently replaced the timing cover seal, and they did a terrible job. There's RTV smeared all over and the leak I had reduced to a weep by snugging the front oil pan bolts is now a leak again.   HOWEVER....I read about replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Any time the ckp sensor is disturbed or timing cover is removed, the truck requires relearning, and that can only be done through a bi-directional scan tool. Skippy with the RTV probably didn't do the relearn procedure is my guess. His scan tool is lost in a pile of RTV goo somewhere.   So, it's very possible the sensor has been disturbed and the truck is just running on the old learn data but not setting a code for anything. The distributor has since been replaced and so has the camshaft position sensor, so all bets are off for that thing.   In the theme of one step forward, two steps back, I returned the accumulator for the AC. The gal I've been working with at O'Really's has been great. She refunded it under manufacturer's defect and we compared it to the replacement I ordered, and sure enough, the replacement is machined very differently (and a gauge actually fits on it!).   Got it home, installed it, started vacuuming it down.... and I couldn't get good vacuum.   The high side service port, where I replaced the old GM ball valve suspecting that was a source of the previous leak....well, I've clearly exposed whatever pre-existing crack in the line where the service port is welded, and made it much worse. Blessing in disguise? Except there goes another $25, now I'm waiting for a replacement AC line.   In 10-ish days ALL the parts will be here. Rebuilt injector, new exhaust system, new cat, new high pressure AC line.   Oh, did I mention the squeaking ISN'T coming from the AC pump? The truck still squeaks when started, and there were words after I started it with the new AC pump installed. But, there was more to replacing the AC pump for just a squeak. A truck with good working AC is something of value, for the comfort alone.   I've ordered a new harmonic balancer because, 30 years is a good run for one of those. Rule it out. The squeak may be something more sinister, though. I'm worried about that ckp sensor and if it was shimmed correctly, or if the timing set was installed correctly. The squeak may be coming from UNDER the timing cover.   At this point, once I get it put back together, I'm thinking I'll take a 50 mile victory lap and then promptly put it up for sale. This truck is cursed. Betty, from beyond the grave, doesn't want anyone messing with her Blazer. Or maybe she's getting revenge for 30 years of shop visits with that thing.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...