2014+ Leveling Kits

[Donstar]

Called up the dealer and the first guy i talked to for a ready lift 2.25 level and alignment wanted 1200 dollars..... absolutely absurd. So then I had a friend who owns a body shop call the same dealer (parts guy instead of service guy) and they told him 475. I know everyone knows how dealers mark up everything but by upwards of 700 dollars?! Thats just wrong.

I was quoted $575 from my dealership for the same kit installed and aligned. There is a huge discrepancy in prices for levelling kits and installation! Just for a bottom of strut 3/4 inch thick aluminum spacer identical in shape composition and function (part only-different brand) range in price from $35 - $175! Installation quotes are equally diverse. The range in knowledge on this modification by professional installers is also quite incredible.

[Bcmking3]

 

That's what I thought, but wasn't entirely sure, thanks. Unless someone can tell me, I guess I'll grab a magnet and climb under the truck.

Black is stamped steel - silver is aluminum..

[MrT1106]

So it looks like all the kits people have commented on thus far has the spacer above the strut mount. i tried to online chat with rough country but after i asked the question the rep ended the chat. so has anyone tried any brand spacer with the new stamped lower control arms?

[Bcmking3]

 

One reason I haven't done it yet is because I don't want to void the warranty.. and I've heard on here that any suspension mods will void warranty for suspension.

It is on them BY FEDERAL LAW to PROVE the modification caused the damage, which is difficult for them to do so it shouldn't be an issue, especially if you have a good relationship with your dealer.

[Donstar]

So it looks like all the kits people have commented on thus far has the spacer above the strut mount. i tried to online chat with rough country but after i asked the question the rep ended the chat. so has anyone tried any brand spacer with the new stamped lower control arms?

My dealership has a 2016 Silverado in their parts showroom with a standard 2" aluminum lower spacer with the stamped lower control arm. I forget the brand but it is discrete and looks great!

[mmwest]

I have a 2.5" RC with the RC 2" rear blocked stacked on the stock block. The truck has a 1"- 1.25" rake and I like the stance since I tow a boat. But man this sucker rides pretty rough. I was going to remove the RC rear block and see if that would help but that would eave me too level for my taste. Do y'all think by me removing the front top spacer Ian's rear block it would help,that much?

Thanks

Edited June 29, 2016 by mmwest

[16silvdriver]

I have a 2.5" RC with the RC 2" rear blocked stacked on the stock block. The truck has a 1"- 1.25" rake and I like the stance since I tow a boat. But man this sucker rides pretty rough. I was going to remove the RC rear block and see if that would help but that would eave me too level for my taste. Do y'all think by me removing the front top spacer Ian's rear block it would help,that much?

Thanks

what kind of wheel tire combo are you running

[mmwest]

what kind of wheel tire combo are you running

Stock w/ 275/65/20 KO'2s. Running at 35psi

[bcbz71]

I have a 2.5" RC with the RC 2" rear blocked stacked on the stock block. The truck has a 1"- 1.25" rake and I like the stance since I tow a boat. But man this sucker rides pretty rough. I was going to remove the RC rear block and see if that would help but that would eave me too level for my taste. Do y'all think by me removing the front top spacer Ian's rear block it would help,that much?

Thanks

 

Never stack blocks...removed the original block and put the RC in alone. The trucks come with 2-2.5" rake from the factory, so raising the front 2.5" and the rear 1" with the replacement block will retain about 1" of rake. That's still not enough if you tow or haul anything, so look into Firestone RideRite Air Bags. It will change your life.

 

If the ride is too harsh for you, going from a 2.5" level to a 2" level is not going to change much. I found my truck road close to stock after the level, so I would put the blame on those 20" rims. Less rubber + more rim = harsher ride. It will only get worse if you go up to a stiffer LT tire.

 

If ride quality and lift is that important to you, than a level may not be your thing. You may need to go to quality 4" suspension lift or a small body lift.

[techsan15]

I have a 2.5" RC with the RC 2" rear blocked stacked on the stock block. The truck has a 1"- 1.25" rake and I like the stance since I tow a boat. But man this sucker rides pretty rough. I was going to remove the RC rear block and see if that would help but that would eave me too level for my taste. Do y'all think by me removing the front top spacer Ian's rear block it would help,that much?

Thanks

 

You have got to be kidding me, stacked blocks? Very unsafe, I would fix that ASAP, and never tell anyone you did that haha.

[roundsy]

TGC 2.5" kit

33x12.50r22 Toyo MT

Fuel Hostage 22x11 -24

 

Front still sits a bit lower than then rear, only rub in reverse at full lock

[16silvdriver]

Trying to put fuel assault 18x9 +1 with toyo open country AT2 33x12.5r18 with 2.25 level, from what ive seen i think these will fit with MAYBE rub in reverse at full lock

[mmwest]

You have got to be kidding me, stacked blocks? Very unsafe, I would fix that ASAP, and never tell anyone you did that haha.

I know,I know!. This was a dealer installed third time screw up (long,long story) and this time I'm moving on to a local shop. Going to definitely remove the stock block and go from there.

[techsan15]

I know,I know!. This was a dealer installed third time screw up (long,long story) and this time I'm moving on to a local shop. Going to definitely remove the stock block and go from there.

I know,I know!. This was a dealer installed third time screw up (long,long story) and this time I'm moving on to a local shop. Going to definitely remove the stock block and go from there.

Ahh I see. Definitely never get any work done st that dealership

[amxguy1970]

It is on them BY FEDERAL LAW to PROVE the modification caused the damage, which is difficult for them to do so it shouldn't be an issue, especially if you have a good relationship with your dealer.

 

It is not difficult for a dealer to show a modification caused an issue with something. What is difficult is a person showing it didn't cause an issue when the dealer/and/or/GM showed it did. Happens more often than you think, especially when those that actually engineered and designed the vehicle are called to look at it and say otherwise; don't you think they would have the best idea?

 

If spacers are put in and a ball joint or CV axle fails, pretty easy to call out. Now trying to explain how a spacer caused a radio failing yeah, not going to happen. But the guy mentioned a spacer causing suspension warranty problems which is no where near out of the realm, so lets not go spreading false information...

 

CMP, as BCM noted it has to be directly caused by the mod, so while it can cause suspension warranty issue that part has to be the cause. It won't immediately wipe out your suspension warranty, it can just do parts of it if a failure happens and that was the cause. Wait until the warranty is up if you are worried. Either way most suspension fixes aren't ridiculously expensive like trying to replace an engine after a tune was on it and caused the failure.

 

Good luck, I personally am waiting until the stock tires are gone and going up. By then the warranty should be done (though I will still have the powertain) and it will be on my regardless.

 

Tyler