Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted (edited)

Any alterations to the truck like a leveling kit will reduce the suspension quality. Make it be the ride quality or the life of your control arms and ext.. there are reason the suspension kits cost a butt load more. Because they actually try and implement a totally new suspension system. It's something people do to enjoy the look of a cheap lift look. If you want a lift but don't want it to screw your ride up change the upper control arm with your level or just go with a suspension lift. I was going to go cheap but I want my truck to last so I'm saving up for a suspension lift.

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

I added a level to my z71 and the ride quality didn't change at all and if you stick around 2 inches, it doesnt change the angles enough for it to matter as far as premature wear is concerned.

 

EDIT: I do agree that a suspension lift is a better way to go over the 2" mark though...

Edited by tyrich88
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

tanner709 Enthusiast

tanner709

Posted
Posted (edited)

just got off the phone with a local shop and when i told them that i wanted a readylift 2.25 level (includes upper and lower strut spacers) they said they only do the lower spacer because it is not worth it to do the top one and you only need 1 3/4" and anymore will do things to the suspension. I was perplexed when he said this because ive read a lot of this thread and ive never quite heard this especially because ive heard nothing but good things about the ready lift 2.25 and a lot of people do 2.5" levels. Anybody know why he wouldve told me this? He came out the cheapest by far but i feel like he was really knowledgeable.

 

Thanks!

 

Just an opinion, some people do feel that way. But 1.75" vs 2.25" will have little to no difference. I think the installer is leaning towards that way because the bottom spacer under the strut is a lot easier to install and can be done without full removal of the strut. Whereas, the "top hat" half inch spacer will require it to be completely let go. Seems like a cop-out to me.

 

Alternatives: Go with a 2" Rough country or similar bottom spacer level only from that same installer, $69 kit...

Edited by tanner709
wuznme Enthusiast

wuznme

Posted
Posted

If thats the case of them not wanting to remove strut completely get someone else to do the work. It's takes all of 10 minutes to get the front assembly out and that includes jacking up and removing the tire.

 

 

 

Just an opinion, some people do feel that way. But 1.75" vs 2.25" will have little to no difference. I think the installer is leaning towards that way because the bottom spacer under the strut is a lot easier to install and can be done without full removal of the strut. Whereas, the "top hat" half inch spacer will require it to be completely let go. Seems like a cop-out to me.

 

Alternatives: Go with a 2" Rough country or similar bottom spacer level only from that same installer, $69 kit...

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

I added a level to my z71 and the ride quality didn't change at all and if you stick around 2 inches, it doesnt change the angles enough for it to matter as far as premature wear is concerned.

 

EDIT: I do agree that a suspension lift is a better way to go over the 2" mark though...

 

That isn't true, anything over stock accelerates wear and the higher you go the sooner the wear can occur. Of course there are many variables, the biggest is if you do or do not leave the pavement. 2.5 is the top end people usually are willing to go and usually long term not good, a half inch lower is still going to add wear but less than the 2.5 and the lower you go and closer to stock those change for the better. But while a 2 inch level is better than a 2.5 it is no were near stock levels in terms of wear.

 

Tyler

Aldila Enthusiast

Aldila

Posted
Posted

That isn't true, anything over stock accelerates wear and the higher you go the sooner the wear can occur. Of course there are many variables, the biggest is if you do or do not leave the pavement. 2.5 is the top end people usually are willing to go and usually long term not good, a half inch lower is still going to add wear but less than the 2.5 and the lower you go and closer to stock those change for the better. But while a 2 inch level is better than a 2.5 it is no were near stock levels in terms of wear.

 

Tyler

Agreed!

Rawyzf Senior Enthusiast

Rawyzf

Posted
Posted

rc 2.5'' level 275/65r20 bfg k0227247406995_d432ae7376_h.jpg

This is an amazing picture. Shows how this color can look so blue and then almost black.

 

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

bcbz71 Enthusiast

bcbz71

Posted
Posted (edited)

I had 285/65/18s without a level and they would rub the felt fender liner at full lock in reverse JUST BARELY, so I would assume these 295s would as well.

I run 275/70s right now and they are in no way narrower than the stock tires as mentioned above. BFG's do run narrow and short though...

My father in law has nitto 275's and they are slightly wider and taller than mine as nitto is more accurate on with height and width of the tires and bfg usually runs small.

I do know that with the 295/65's or if you level and run 295/70's, you can trim the felt liner and that will eliminate the rub

 

 

I've had 275/70r18s BFG KOs before and I thought they looked horrible....way too skinny. It's a very narrow treadwidth with no section width to look fatter...hated the look. Might as well stay stock. 285/65r18 and larger is where tires start making a difference in looks.

 

You are wrong on 295/70r18s only rubbing felt with stock rims. They will rub the swaybar and the UCAs and the felt. There are plenty of guys on here running them...one is running a 2.5" Level + 1.5 BL and they still rub the swaybar because the stock offset is too positive. Needs at least a .75 spacer not to rub the UCA and swaybar and also some felt cutting or tie backs.

 

I'm not convinced the 295/65r18 on stockers is not going to rub the UCA or swaybar without rubbing because it's almost 12" wide. I'm running a 275/65r18 Nitto G2 and I have about a finger clearance on the UCA and just a little more on the swaybar. The problem is that I can't find anyone running them with just a 2.5 level on a 2014+. Eventually someone will do it, or I will whenever my Nittos wear out.

Edited by bcbz71
tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

I've had 275/70r18s BFG KOs before and I thought they looked horrible....way too skinny. It's a very narrow treadwidth with no section width to look fatter...hated the look. Might as well stay stock. 285/65r18 and larger is where tires start making a difference in looks.

 

You are wrong on 295/70r18s only rubbing felt with stock rims. They will rub the swaybar and the UCAs and the felt. There are plenty of guys on here running them...one is running a 2.5" Level + 1.5 BL and they still rub the swaybar because the stock offset is too positive. Needs at least a .75 spacer not to rub the UCA and swaybar and also some felt cutting or tie backs.

 

I'm not convinced the 295/65r18 on stockers is not going to rub the UCA or swaybar without rubbing because it's almost 12" wide. I'm running a 275/65r18 Nitto G2 and I have about a finger clearance on the UCA and just a little more on the swaybar. The problem is that I can't find anyone running them with just a 2.5 level on a 2014+. Eventually someone will do it, or I will whenever my Nittos wear out.

Sorry, the guy with the 295/70/18s is on method wheels and those wheels have a +18 offset, not the stock +24... my bad.

I ran 285's with no rubbing issue, but on stocks I would agree that 295s would rub. I didn't have much room at all on my 285's.

If some +18 wheels were used I would go and say it would be fine. Just a little felt liner trimming. Level would be recommended though.

 

And I agree the BFG's look narrow in a 275. I still like the look of the tires and they perform very well. But my next set will be 285's for sure.

Probably nittos as well.

Edited by tyrich88
tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

 

That isn't true, anything over stock accelerates wear and the higher you go the sooner the wear can occur. Of course there are many variables, the biggest is if you do or do not leave the pavement. 2.5 is the top end people usually are willing to go and usually long term not good, a half inch lower is still going to add wear but less than the 2.5 and the lower you go and closer to stock those change for the better. But while a 2 inch level is better than a 2.5 it is no were near stock levels in terms of wear.

 

Tyler

I mean, i agree, it'll cause a little wear. But so will driving offroad and anything else that puts those angles at anything different than what they're at during highway driving.

It's just my opinion that it's not enough to make much of a difference. It was totally worth it in my opinion.

Donstar Senior Enthusiast

Donstar

Posted
Posted

I mean, i agree, it'll cause a little wear. But so will driving offroad and anything else that puts those angles at anything different than what they're at during highway driving.

It's just my opinion that it's not enough to make much of a difference. It was totally worth it in my opinion.

I believe you are correct in your understanding of 2" and lower levels, "for it to matter as far as premature wear is concerned". A member responded, "That isn't true" which is another perspective. My understanding (opinion) is that the lower levels of one to two inches have your suspension components working at adjusted angles but are within the safe operating limits of the suspension components. Ball joints will wear eventually in a completely stock truck just as they will with a small spacer kit or levelling shock. We usually don't own our trucks long enough to see this. My understanding of the 2.5 and higher lifts is that you are reaching the maximum flexibility of your suspension components and anything other than smooth road surfaces will cause parts to exceed their maximum designed tolerances.

In my inquiries on this topic I have come across people in the business who will discourage any type of lift or level and are often equipped with some good horror stories. In shops where they do levels and lifts I have consistently been assured that I won't experience abnormal stress on stock components with a level under 2 inches. After reading and asking about this modification for the past several months I am going with a 1.5 level and am confident my suspension will remain as durable as stock.

techsan15 Enthusiast

techsan15

Posted
Posted (edited)

RC 2.5" with block. Amps and Tires coming soon

 

image_zpsvduvoive.jpeg

Edited by techsan15
  • Like 1
techsan15 Enthusiast

techsan15

Posted
Posted

67FA2072-D66E-4877-A04B-C590E54E2B92_zps

 

BAE018DC-AA72-446A-B2EF-13697819E1D9_zps

 

 

DEFC2102-5559-47AE-8E48-E9D94A6841AE_zps

 

RC under the strut spacer only.

 

BFG 275/65-20

 

I plan on adding the top spacer and swapping the rear blocks this weekend with an alignment next week.

 

You ever get this done? Was thinking about going with that size tire.

  • Like 1
Trinity2020 Enthusiast

Trinity2020

Posted
Posted

How are the angle of the upper ball joints with the 2.5" RC lift? Any need to get the RC UCA's and swap them out same time or are the stock ones just fine with the RC 2.5 level?

 

I've seen enough people running 20x9 or 20x10 aftermarket wheels with 33x12.5x20 tire which is what I'm leaning towards so it sound like the RC 2.5 or their 3.5 kit is the route I'm going.

Trinity2020 Enthusiast

Trinity2020

Posted
Posted

Rough country 2.5" leveling kit, front only.

 

e904bc54590b13f7a2460bf9543f5f19.jpg

 

How are the angles on the ball joints up front?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Joke Thread

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • chfkief
      FS: Black Bear Performance AutoCal Tuning System

      By chfkief · Posted

      Do you still have?
    • 3CarSeatDad
      High Country Suburban build confirmation

      By 3CarSeatDad · Posted

      Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • revmanii
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By revmanii · Posted

      Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Core-Lokt
      Road Master Active Suspension

      By Core-Lokt · Posted

      Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...