Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

This is a great picture. I was under the impression that a level up to 2.5 inches was safe. Your picture shows a very unnatural angle from your UCLA to your knuckle. This is what you would expect it to look like while your wheel is falling into a deep pothole! I would like to see before and after pictures of various level/lift modifications. Would a 1.5 inch look "more natural" and a 3 inch look worse?

 

Yes

 

Tyler

  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

DonkeyKiller Enthusiast

DonkeyKiller

Posted
Posted (edited)

Did a 3" MotoFab level to mine with 33"s. I love how it turned out but I'm having alignment issues.

 

 

post-151012-0-49880000-1464023305_thumb.jpg

post-151012-0-49880000-1464023305_thumb.jpg

post-151012-0-49880000-1464023305_thumb.jpg

post-151012-0-49880000-1464023305_thumb.jpg

Edited by DonkeyKiller
Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

Did a 3" MotoFab level to mine with 33"s. I love how it turned out but I'm having alignment issues.

 

 

 

 

What alignment issues? I have the same 3 in kit. Mine aligned fine.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

DonkeyKiller Enthusiast

DonkeyKiller

Posted
Posted

What alignment issues? I have the same 3 in kit. Mine aligned fine.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

The truck was pulling to the left after the level install, I had it aligned and now it pulls even harder but to the right. Guy at the shop said it was in spec and gave me this printout. Thinking of taking it to the dealership and seeing if they can do anything.

 

IMG 20160523 123200

Jeff5347 Enthusiast

Jeff5347

Posted
Posted

I had the same thing. The first one whined and moaned about a level even saying a 1 inch levels bad. Had him align it 2 times and the steering wheel looked like / that. Took to another and he aligned it first time perfect. Plus the second guy asked who did it cause the toe was so f'd up from the first guy

 

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

DonkeyKiller Enthusiast

DonkeyKiller

Posted
Posted

Well that's good to hear. He seemed like he didn't want to mess with it just told me it was in spec. I guess he got me for $60. I'll find someone that will do it right.

14BlackSilverado Enthusiast

14BlackSilverado

Posted
Posted

So I put a rough country 2.5" on my 2016 AT up front, nothing in the back. I also have 295/60/20 on stock wheels. I was looking at the angle of my control arms at the end and it seems pretty steep. I was wondering yalls opinion? Would new control arms fix this or what? What are the long term consequences of this?

 

That angle is crazy steep looking! I have the RC 2 inch front only and its not even close to that! Do you have other mods? Different shocks?

SierraMyst Enthusiast

SierraMyst

Posted
Posted

RC is a small resin "clip" spacer installed on the bottom of the strut. The cheaper levels are usually this type but aluminum.

Pro Comp and Readylift are billet spacer rings that mount on top of the strut.

Bilsteins are a whole new strut with adjust-ability of height.

 

I was just reading and found this interesting.

 

Is there a consensus that the resin/poly (RC) spacers are "better" quality then the "cheap" aluminum (Motofab) spacers?

 

Just wondering.... When discussing a simple component such as a lower strut spacer, I'd think the aluminum is sturdier than resin.

z71camaro Enthusiast

z71camaro

Posted
Posted (edited)

 

I was just reading and found this interesting.

 

Is there a consensus that the resin/poly (RC) spacers are "better" quality then the "cheap" aluminum (Motofab) spacers?

 

Just wondering.... When discussing a simple component such as a lower strut spacer, I'd think the aluminum is sturdier than resin.

I meant the cheaper spacers are the lower strut type. Other than RC, most are aluminum. Neither the alum or the poly type will likely ever fail. Could use a stack of washers and still not likely ever see it fail. (NO, I am NOT recommending that)

Edited by z71camaro
  • Like 1
SierraMyst Enthusiast

SierraMyst

Posted
Posted

I meant the cheaper spacers are the lower strut type. Other than RC, most are aluminum. Neither the alum or the poly type will likely ever fail. Could use a stack of washers and still not likely ever see it fail. (NO, I am NOT recommending that)

Copy.

 

I bought the aluminum motofab, 1.5"

 

Just making sure before I install them.

 

Thanks

zback Enthusiast

zback

Posted
Posted

 

That angle is crazy steep looking! I have the RC 2 inch front only and its not even close to that! Do you have other mods? Different shocks?

No, just RC 2.5 in the front. and 295/60/20s on stock wheels. Everything else is stock.

 

I'm trying to decide when I should go ahead and get the new control arms.

chevydeth Enthusiast

chevydeth

Posted
Posted (edited)

Largest tire I can fit with a 2" level on stock GMC 18" all terrain wheels? The more rubber the better.. I think I saw a lot of 275/70/18? I'd like to avoid any trimming.

Edited by chevydeth
  • Like 1
tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

Largest tire I can fit with a 2" level on stock GMC 18" all terrain wheels? The more rubber the better.. I think I saw a lot of 275/70/18? I'd like to avoid any trimming.

I have a 275/70/18 BFG KO2 on mine with a 2" level with absolutely no rubbing issues at all.

I've seen 297/70/18 on 18" method wheels, they have a +18 offset though instead of the stock +24ish

And that required trimming of the felt liner.

chevydeth Enthusiast

chevydeth

Posted
Posted

I have a 275/70/18 BFG KO2 on mine with a 2" level with absolutely no rubbing issues at all.

I've seen 297/70/18 on 18" method wheels, they have a +18 offset though instead of the stock +24ish

And that required trimming of the felt liner.

Thanks, you have any pics of your setup?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • jgaudet99
      Tire psi

      By jgaudet99 · Posted

      Thanks everyone for the help!   I'm going to stop into the scales one of these days and weigh my axels, for the time being, I am going to run Toyo's recommendations and also do a chalk test. I have a tire shop that's going to try their scanner to reprogram and set the the factory psi values lower, and if they can't I'm going to order a scanner and do it myself!
    • KARNUT
      Exhaust Question

      By KARNUT · Posted

      You won’t do better than stock exhaust without headers. Just put your favorite muffler on it and it will do the job. 
    • C. Hart
      Exhaust Question

      By C. Hart · Posted

      I have seen different people in different places post different sizes of exhaust as stock for my 2014 Sierra L83. Some say 2.5 some say 2.75. I am considering replacing the muffler with a Dynomax Super Turbo, perhaps 17739.  I had the factory L83 5.3 replaced with another L83 5.3 from Jasper Engines. I also put new Walker Cat / Y pipe on. I would appreciate opinions suggestions about what would be a good muffler setup. My main interest is a low rumble and the best flow / fuel mileage I can get. Not interested in straight through glass packs or loud exhaust. Those days are way behind me now.  Thanks Guys.  
    • newdude
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By newdude · Posted

      Its coolant disguised as oil.   TSB 20-NA-166 -  20-NA-166 1..3   "To inspect for this concern, add coolant dye to the system, run the engine through warm up, pressurize the cooling system after warming the engine to operating temperature (let the engine cool overnight) and inspect the suspect cylinder with a borescope for coolant dye evidence. At times it may be necessary to remove the head for inspection. If the head casting line is the concern, the intake port will be wet with a coolant oil mix"     I'd say its the head, and its either leaking at the casting line and dripping down the intake into the cylinder, or its another spot on the casting itself at the cylinder that is getting wet.  
    • asilverblazer
      Cold start Miss, oil in cylinder

      By asilverblazer · Posted

      Can you sample the pooled liquid, enough to confirm it is oil?   ...That its not fuel or coolant.   Also, make sure combustion gases aren't entering the cooling system.   Simply put, either oil being pushed up past the rings (this really isn't possible), oil leaking past the head gasket, oil leaking past the valve, oil entering through the intake air path. If none of this is likely - it may not be oil.   What could be likely is the fuel injector leaking down. A puddle of gas would still smoke and rough idle. (Same cylinder has the same problem after injector replacement?)   What is the crank time first thing in the morning, when the puddle would be present? Does it seem like the high pressure fuel pump needs an extra second or two to rebuild the pressure that injector 8 may have let bleed off? Check the fuel pressure via a scanner prior to starting the engine.    

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...