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Posted (edited)

Haven't seen many that think the 5100's improve the ride. I would stay with P rated Nitto or Toyo.

I really don't see it getting better than stock.

 

If you want the height and ride quality you should turn to a quality lift. One has to be sacrificed unfortunately, I had the same dilemma.

Edited by tanner709
Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado z71. Currently it has the front 2.5 RC level kit with a zone off-road add-a-leaf. The ride has been getting pretty bad lately so I started throwing around the idea of new shocks and maybe struts. I'm leaning towards the 5100's. In the rear I want to add the RC 2"block and keep the add a leaf. Could I order rear shocks that are for a 2500 and mount them on my 1500?

 

 

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Posted

I have a 2015 Silverado z71. Currently it has the front 2.5 RC level kit with a zone off-road add-a-leaf. The ride has been getting pretty bad lately so I started throwing around the idea of new shocks and maybe struts. I'm leaning towards the 5100's. In the rear I want to add the RC 2"block and keep the add a leaf. Could I order rear shocks that are for a 2500 and mount them on my 1500?

 

 

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The rear Bilstiens are rated for 1 or 2" of lift I can't remember or you could buy shock extenders.

Posted (edited)

I spent countless hours on the forums and looking at available kits. I wanted something that did not change highway ride quality and also improved off road capability. I ended up going with Camburg's 2.5 coilover kit. I absolutely love this kit, it drives great on road and amazing off road. .

 

https://camburg.com/shop/suspension/fox-chevy-1500-2wd-4wd-07-14-factory-2-5-kit/

 

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What size wheels and tires are you running? I am looking at getting some XD 808 Menece 22x9.5 in +12 with some 33x12.50x22 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and a 2-2.5" leveling kit. I too would prefer not to loose and ride quality so was thinking of going with a new coil over set up...your kit isn't much cheaper than doing a 4" BDS lift with the fox shocks though. You don't have to cut the frame or anything with this set up do you? Also does it make the front wheels stick out like the lifts do? Edited by NIXONRIDE
Posted

I am Running 285/70R17. No cutting of the frame was needed and it does not make the front tires stick out.

 

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What size wheels and tires are you running? I am looking at getting some XD 808 Menece 22x9.5 in +12 with some 33x12.50x22 Nitto Ridge Grapplers and a 2-2.5" leveling kit. I too would prefer not to loose and ride quality so was thinking of going with a new coil over set up...your kit isn't much cheaper than doing a 4" BDS lift with the fix shows though. You don't have to cut the frame or anything with this set up do you? Also does it make the front wheels stick out like the lifts do?

I am Running 285/70R17. No cutting of the frame was needed and it does not make the front tires stick out.
Posted

One of the most important tips I'd like to pass on ,even after reading every single post is that you should never stack blocks. I have a 2.5" RC that had stock block with the RC 2" on top of it. I was trying to get more rake iota the truck so when I tow I wouldn't be nose high. WRONG. The truck rode like shit so I had the rear stock block removed. Man what a difference. Hope this helps someone out.

Posted

One of the most important tips I'd like to pass on ,even after reading every single post is that you should never stack blocks. I have a 2.5" RC that had stock block with the RC 2" on top of it. I was trying to get more rake iota the truck so when I tow I wouldn't be nose high. WRONG. The truck rode like shit so I had the rear stock block removed. Man what a difference. Hope this helps someone out.

I have 2.5" level in front and stock in rear. So are you saying as long as you don't stack blocks on top of rear, I should be okay to remove stock block and add an aftermarket block that is same brand as my front level?

 

 

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Posted

I have 2.5" level in front and stock in rear. So are you saying as long as you don't stack blocks on top of rear, I should be okay to remove stock block and add an aftermarket block that is same brand as my front level?

 

Brand of block doesn't matter....just don't stack an aftermarket block on top of the OEM block. Rule is SINGLE BLOCK between the spring pack and top of axle.

Posted

im planning on just a 1" front lift using the spacer on the lower A arm. Do ya'll think an alignment is stil necessary after?????

Posted

im planning on just a 1" front lift using the spacer on the lower A arm. Do ya'll think an alignment is stil necessary after?????

Yes, anytime you mess with the geometry an alignment is needed.

Posted

 

Brand of block doesn't matter....just don't stack an aftermarket block on top of the OEM block. Rule is SINGLE BLOCK between the spring pack and top of axle.

Thanks for the note. How does your truck ride with the rear block? I have a 14 high country 4wd w 2.5 up front. 305 55

 

Thanks!

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for the note. How does your truck ride with the rear block? I have a 14 high country 4wd w 2.5 up front. 305 55

 

You're not going to notice any ride difference with the 1" taller block in the rear. The shocks have plenty of travel and you are not altering the spring pack so the only difference you will notice is 7/8" more rake than you have now. Remember to put the fat end of the block to the rear...it's tapered.

 

My truck rides a little stiffer because in addition to the RCX 2" block, I have Firestone RideRite Air Bags on the rear and I have to keep 5 psi in them...it gives me more rake, which is OK by me as I like the rake look. When I am towing, I put about 20# of air in them, so I don't get that nose high look. With the air bags, towing is rock steady.

Edited by bcbz71
Posted

 

You're not going to notice any ride difference with the 1" taller block in the rear. The shocks have plenty of travel and you are not altering the spring pack so the only difference you will notice is 7/8" more rake than you have now. Remember to put the fat end of the block to the rear...it's tapered.

 

My truck rides a little stiffer because in addition to the RCX 2" block, I have Firestone RideRite Air Bags on the rear and I have to keep 5 psi in them...it gives me more rake, which is OK by me as I like the rake look. When I am towing, I put about 20# of air in them, so I don't get that nose high look. With the air bags, towing is rock steady.

Awesome. Yea I'm a 1" high in the front right now and when I put a trailer load on her she snobs a little more. So I'm thinking with a 1-3/4" block in the back it will help that. Thanks for the help!

 

 

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Posted

Will 295 60 20 Toyo AT2 Extreme fit on a 15' all terrain with stock 20" AT rims and a 2.5 RC level?

Posted

Will 295 60 20 Toyo AT2 Extreme fit on a 15' all terrain with stock 20" AT rims and a 2.5 RC level?

I'm running that exact tire on a 14 high country with stock rims and a RC/Bilstein custom 2.5" level. Only barely rubbed the inner fender carpet at full lock in reverse by about 1/8" when I first put them on 3 months ago. No rubbing now. See pic below.

 

Know another guy on here with same tire and 2.5" TGC front level on 14 GMC with stock rims. No rubbing at all.

 

Definitely recommend those tires. They are pretty badass. Check out Amazon before you buy local, got set of 4 shipped to my house for under $1450. Local shops quoted me over $2100 for same tire. Happy shopping!

 

455e55e253c83e865049c278f0b6df80.jpg

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