2014+ Leveling Kits

Skelly · July 6, 2016

Good looking truck! Did you remove the stock rear block? I have 2.5" level in front and ride about 1" high without a trailer load. I want to add a rear block.

Thanks!

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Yes I have the RC rear block in there. However I still have 1" of rake, every truck must be slightly different. Only I can tell though, because I look at it all the time and it kind of annoys me but its definitely better to have for towing

BowtieTJ · July 6, 2016

Yes I have the RC rear block in there. However I still have 1" of rake, every truck must be slightly different. Only I can tell though, because I look at it all the time and it kind of annoys me but its definitely better to have for towing

Cool. Thanks for the follow up. I went with a ProRyde adjustable leveling kit and nothing in the back. The front is leveled 2.5" and it sits 1" high up front. ProRyde makes a rear block that is 1-3/4" so in removing the 1" stock block I should be very close to level or maybe even a very slight rake, maybe 3/4"? How does the truck ride with the rear block added and stock removed? I'm running 305 55 20. AT2

Thanks . Slick looking truck

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Skelly · July 6, 2016

Cool. Thanks for the follow up. I went with a ProRyde adjustable leveling kit and nothing in the back. The front is leveled 2.5" and it sits 1" high up front. ProRyde makes a rear block that is 1-3/4" so in removing the 1" stock block I should be very close to level or maybe even a very slight rake, maybe 3/4"? How does the truck ride with the rear block added and stock removed? I'm running 305 55 20. AT2

Thanks . Slick looking truck

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Thanks, again I can't notice much difference from the stock ride. I'm running 295/55/R20 AT2. It's a little bouncy over speed bumps which is annoying but I don't think that's anything to do with the level

badfnz · July 7, 2016

Anyone have pics of a before and after of someone that started with the 2" level, then added the top spacer to go to 2.5"? I'm trying to determine how noticeable the extra 0.5" is. I already have the parts for the 2", but I'd have to order the top spacer so I'm wondering if it's worth it.

sensinitas · July 7, 2016

So my review of the RC 2.5" front only kit - took me a bit to get used to the new look. After a bit, I loved it. However, for work I drive 2-3k miles at a time with a loaded bed. The loaded bed caused the front to sit up even higher, extending the suspension even further, causing the front wheels to positive camber out. I've completely worn out the outside of my tires. My plan is to remove the upper strut spacer this week, get an alignment, and see if that helps a bit.

Edited July 7, 2016 by sensinitas

Waaazooo · July 7, 2016

So my review of the RC 2.5" front only kit - took me a bit to get used to the new look. After a bit, I loved it. However, for work I drive 2-3k miles at a time with a loaded bed. The loaded bed caused the front to sit up even higher, extending the suspension even further, causing the front wheels to positive camber out. I've completely worn out the outside of my tires. My plan is to remove the upper strut spacer this week, get an alignment, and see if that helps a bit.

out of curiosity.... wont a fully loaded bed change the alignment? Even if you lower the truck and have it aligned with a dry weight. Once you put 2000lbs you'll load the front suspension. You may not be in positive camber but negative. It actually sounds to me that you would need a helper spring on the rear suspension or a weight distributive trailer.

sensinitas · July 7, 2016

out of curiosity.... wont a fully loaded bed change the alignment? Even if you lower the truck and have it aligned with a dry weight. Once you put 2000lbs you'll load the front suspension. You may not be in positive camber but negative. It actually sounds to me that you would need a helper spring on the rear suspension or a weight distributive trailer.

Yes you are correct. I guess I was hoping removing the upper spacer wouldn't put he suspension so close to the end of its limits. I didn't have this problem prior to the leveling kit Edited July 7, 2016 by sensinitas

namanc6 · July 7, 2016

So based on everything I've read so far, I'm pretty much decided on getting the bilstein ride height adjustable shocks and an add a leaf in the rear for when i occasionally carry a load. My question is which add-a-leaf kit is good for our trucks?

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Donstar · July 7, 2016

So based on everything I've read so far, I'm pretty much decided on getting the bilstein ride height adjustable shocks and an add a leaf in the rear for when i occasionally carry a load. My question is which add-a-leaf kit is good for our trucks?

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This is where I was a little while ago but kept researching as I didn't have the funds and was waiting to buy new tires. Since then, I decided that the Bilsteins are not really adjustable. You pick a height, install, align and hope you picked the right height! If you get it wrong, you have to remove the shock, adjust and reinstall. It is more labour intensive to replace a shock than a bottom spacer. Instead of buying an add-a-leaf kit. my local spring shop will fabricate one to my particular height and load specifications. When I buy my next set of tires I'm going to have a 1.5" bottom of strut kit installed and have a leaf added when/if I get another trailer!

bcbz71 · July 7, 2016

Anyone have pics of a before and after of someone that started with the 2" level, then added the top spacer to go to 2.5"? I'm trying to determine how noticeable the extra 0.5" is. I already have the parts for the 2", but I'd have to order the top spacer so I'm wondering if it's worth it.

You can't tell the .5 difference so it's only worth it if you are going to push the limits on your tire size. .5 will be important if you want to run 295 or 305.....not so much if you want to run 275 or 285.

bcbz71 · July 7, 2016

So based on everything I've read so far, I'm pretty much decided on getting the bilstein ride height adjustable shocks and an add a leaf in the rear for when i occasionally carry a load. My question is which add-a-leaf kit is good for our trucks?

Add a leaf kits will ruin your ride.....better put in some glue on your teeth. Air bags are a better option for occasional weight in the rear.

tanner709 · July 8, 2016

So my review of the RC 2.5" front only kit - took me a bit to get used to the new look. After a bit, I loved it. However, for work I drive 2-3k miles at a time with a loaded bed. The loaded bed caused the front to sit up even higher, extending the suspension even further, causing the front wheels to positive camber out. I've completely worn out the outside of my tires. My plan is to remove the upper strut spacer this week, get an alignment, and see if that helps a bit.

Why not add the rear block or extra leaf?

15slvrado · July 8, 2016

Looking for a little advise. I installed Motofab 1.5 lower spacer about 4K miles ago and I am happy with the way it sits. Ride has gotten a little rough now with 14k miles. It seems like I can feel every bump on every road. Question is do I go with Fox 2.0 or replace the Goodyear SRA's to smooth out the ride. I was waiting to see about the Bilstein 6112 but couldn't wait. Had to level it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

tanner709 · July 8, 2016

Looking for a little advise. I installed Motofab 1.5 lower spacer about 4K miles ago and I am happy with the way it sits. Ride has gotten a little rough now with 14k miles. It seems like I can feel every bump on every road. Question is do I go with Fox 2.0 or replace the Goodyear SRA's to smooth out the ride. I was waiting to see about the Bilstein 6112 but couldn't wait. Had to level it. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Image1467944086.161079.jpg

Those SRA's are probably the softest tire you're going to get. I think you should drive something with an LT tire for a week then hop back in yours and realize it's not that bad. It's all relevant, it tends to seem worse than it is if it's bothering you.

Consider the bilstein 5100s ?