Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone have pictures of a 2.5" rough country level kit installed but without the top 1/2" spacer in the front?
Basically just the lower 2" spacer in the front and the 2" block in the rear.

Im looking to get almost level but still keep a slight rake and also not mess with the front springs compression from that 1/2" spacer.

  • Like 1
Posted

You could just do the 2" front level and You would end up about 3/4" higher in the rear after everything settles out.

Posted

There are pics of my truck 1 page back with just the 2" level.

Posted

 

With a 2" level, I fit my 305/65/18s with zero trimming and zero rubbing, even at full lock in reverse. They measure 33.7x12.1, and even .1" more, and it would rub. I think I found the absolute limit for size on these new trucks with just a 2".

How much have you been offroad with that size? They look great!

Posted

Hi guys I am new here and been reading this thread this for awhile. I have a 2017 SLT all terrain and was hopping to do the RC 2.5" kit but once I realized that the top spacer goes in the coil instead of the over the strut on the 2017 models I decided against it. I noticed that motofab makes a couple of different options for a 2.5" level kit. I was wondering if anyone has used this kit http://www.motofablifts.com/product-p/ch-25lm.htm ? I also find it weird that rough country makes you conform what control arms you have for there leveling kits but motofab does not? Also I have not found anyone else that makes a 2.5" bottom mount level besides motofab. Is there a benefit from using a 2" spacer on the bottom and a 1/2" on the top instead of just using a 2.5" on the bottom alone? thanks in advance for any help with this!

I had a terrible experience with Motofab. Long story short, they told me the lower strut spacers would work for my '16 and they did not.

 

Before placing my order, they were very quick to answer all of my qualifying questions, but when i tried to reach out for a refund, I NEVER heard from them (after multiple attempts). Luckily I purchased through amazon, or I would have never received a refund. Moving forward I will go with anyone but them due to the lack of customer service and would advise others the same in case there happens to be an issue.

 

That said, if you do the top spacer, you should be alright since they are all pretty standard and a solid billet material

Posted

Hypothetical question for those more qualified than myself - Trying to get some more height out of mine without having to do a full lift kit

 

Keep my Bilstein 5100 at the 1.25" setting and do a 2.5" Top strut spacer (totaling 3.75") WITH aftermarket UCAs - would this work?

 

Or would it be a better option to just do a 1 inch body on top of a 2.5 inch level totaling 3.5 inches?

Posted

Hypothetical question for those more qualified than myself - Trying to get some more height out of mine without having to do a full lift kit

 

Keep my Bilstein 5100 at the 1.25" setting and do a 2.5" Top strut spacer (totaling 3.75") WITH aftermarket UCAs - would this work?

 

Or would it be a better option to just do a 1 inch body on top of a 2.5 inch level totaling 3.5 inches?

that would DESTROY your front end components. TREs, BJs, CVs would all be ruined

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I had a terrible experience with Motofab. Long story short, they told me the lower strut spacers would work for my '16 and they did not.

 

Before placing my order, they were very quick to answer all of my qualifying questions, but when i tried to reach out for a refund, I NEVER heard from them (after multiple attempts). Luckily I purchased through amazon, or I would have never received a refund. Moving forward I will go with anyone but them due to the lack of customer service and would advise others the same in case there happens to be an issue.

 

That said, if you do the top spacer, you should be alright since they are all pretty standard and a solid billet material

 

Can I ask what didn't work with the Motofab on the bottom? I was looking at there 1.5".

Posted

 

I had a terrible experience with Motofab. Long story short, they told me the lower strut spacers would work for my '16 and they did not.

 

Before placing my order, they were very quick to answer all of my qualifying questions, but when i tried to reach out for a refund, I NEVER heard from them (after multiple attempts). Luckily I purchased through amazon, or I would have never received a refund. Moving forward I will go with anyone but them due to the lack of customer service and would advise others the same in case there happens to be an issue.

 

That said, if you do the top spacer, you should be alright since they are all pretty standard and a solid billet material

 

Can I ask what didn't work with the Motofab on the bottom? I was looking at there 1.5".

 

 

Sure. So I was told by a local shop out here (that has about 15+ years or so in lifting/working on lifted trucks) that since I have the stamped steel control arms, the lower strut spacer would not sit correctly. Top worked perfectly and could have ultimately used a motofab top, but i went with pro-comp based on principle.

Posted

 

Sure. So I was told by a local shop out here (that has about 15+ years or so in lifting/working on lifted trucks) that since I have the stamped steel control arms, the lower strut spacer would not sit correctly. Top worked perfectly and could have ultimately used a motofab top, but i went with pro-comp based on principle.

That's weird. The strut has 2 flat tabs that the spacer sits on. You would think flat is flat. Isn't rough country and all the others the same?

Posted (edited)

Hypothetical question for those more qualified than myself - Trying to get some more height out of mine without having to do a full lift kit

 

Keep my Bilstein 5100 at the 1.25" setting and do a 2.5" Top strut spacer (totaling 3.75") WITH aftermarket UCAs - would this work?

 

Or would it be a better option to just do a 1 inch body on top of a 2.5 inch level totaling 3.5 inches?

I know people say more than 2.5" is bad for your suspension, but I had a very similar set-up. I had the Rough Country 2" lower strut spacer and the Bilstein's cranked up to the max height, which put me at about 3.75" up front...I didn't have aftermarket UCAs, though I would have added them soon had I kept the truck. I had 285/75r18 Nitto G2s with stock rims and I was off-road quite a bit and no issues. I didn't keep the truck long-term and traded it for a 2500 at about 50k miles, but I had zero issues with my set-up and loved the way it looked.

Edited by atay2011
Posted

I know people say more than 2.5" is bad for your suspension, but I had a very similar set-up. I had the Rough Country 2" lower strut spacer and the Bilstein's cranked up to the max height, which put me at about 3.75" up front...I didn't have aftermarket UCAs, though I would have added them soon had I kept the truck. I had 285/75r18 Nitto G2s with stock rims and I was off-road quite a bit and no issues. I didn't keep the truck long-term and traded it for a 2500 at about 50k miles, but I had zero issues with my set-up and loved the way it looked.

You dont happen to have any pics of the truck do you? would love to see what it looked like at that size

Posted

You dont happen to have any pics of the truck do you? would love to see what it looked like at that size

Here's what I have left of pics:

 

with NItto G2s 285/75r18, 2" level + Bilstein 1.75"

truck 5

Posted

 

Here's what I have left of pics:

 

Looks great!

It would put some accelerated wear on ball joints and such, so if it were mine I would replace the control arms...

how did it ride?

Posted

Anyone know of the biggest size tire I can fit on a 2" leveling kit 2wd silverado. I'm wanting to go with a 20x10 -24 offset.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 617 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...