Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I know people say more than 2.5" is bad for your suspension, but I had a very similar set-up. I had the Rough Country 2" lower strut spacer and the Bilstein's cranked up to the max height, which put me at about 3.75" up front...I didn't have aftermarket UCAs, though I would have added them soon had I kept the truck. I had 285/75r18 Nitto G2s with stock rims and I was off-road quite a bit and no issues. I didn't keep the truck long-term and traded it for a 2500 at about 50k miles, but I had zero issues with my set-up and loved the way it looked.

 

2.5 isn't a magic number, anything over stock is bad for your suspension just the higher you go the worse it gets. 1 inch is worse than stock, 2 is worse than 1 and so forth. Going that high really pushes the limits of safety and durability or stock components that weren't designed to ride at that level.

 

Anyone know of the biggest size tire I can fit on a 2" leveling kit 2wd silverado. I'm wanting to go with a 20x10 -24 offset.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

 

Have you tried searching yet?

 

Tyler

Posted

 

2.5 isn't a magic number, anything over stock is bad for your suspension just the higher you go the worse it gets. 1 inch is worse than stock, 2 is worse than 1 and so forth. Going that high really pushes the limits of safety and durability or stock components that weren't designed to ride at that level.

 

 

Have you tried searching yet?

 

Tyler

Yes & I'm getting mixed answers of a 285/55 yes completely & some saying it rubs just a small tiny bit.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

Posted

suspension Maxx is a Great kit, made in USA and is the only one (i think) made for the magnetic ride in the denalis. without a denali they are still a great kit and easy to install.

Posted

Yes & I'm getting mixed answers of a 285/55 yes completely & some saying it rubs just a small tiny bit.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

You have to research the tire brands too because it all makes a difference. I went with a 275/60R20 and didn't find anyone that rubbed with that size but my Duratracs rubbed the carpet.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posted

You have to research the tire brands too because it all makes a difference. I went with a 275/60R20 and didn't find anyone that rubbed with that size but my Duratracs rubbed the carpet.

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

But what size wheel setup did you use?

I want a 20x10 -24 off set.

 

Using a 275/55 would be like factory style but I want just a slight bit beefier like the 285/55 or yes a 275/60 but unsure of which setup works with the wheel option I want.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

Posted

But what size wheel setup did you use?

I want a 20x10 -24 off set.

 

Using a 275/55 would be like factory style but I want just a slight bit beefier like the 285/55 or yes a 275/60 but unsure of which setup works with the wheel option I want.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

275/60R20 Duratracs with 2" Motofab (lower spacer) with stock 20" rims. Idk the offset on them but many people have the same setup with a different brand tire and they do not rub. I was very surprised.

d593d6a6caf64176add219bdea636d0a.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Posted

275/60R20 Duratracs with 2" Motofab (lower spacer) with stock 20" rims. Idk the offset on them but many people have the same setup with a different brand tire and they do not rub. I was very surprised.

d593d6a6caf64176add219bdea636d0a.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

Stock 20's from chevy is a 20x8.5 with a +31. So being that I want a 20x10 & -24 it pushes it out further so it would be a completely different tire to fit. I went with a 2" motofab upper strut spacer & just looking for a perfect fit so I don't rub or have to do any trimming to get it to fit.

 

 

TexasSilverado16

  • Like 2
Posted

Here's my 2017. 2 inch rcx level with firestone airbags in rear. 305/45r22 hankook dynapro on factory 22s attachicon.gifIMG_0218.PNGattachicon.gifIMG_0217.PNG

Good looking truck

 

 

2014 Chevy silverado Z71 DCSB w/Bilstein 5100 level

  • Like 1
Posted

Here's my 2017. 2 inch rcx level with firestone airbags in rear. 305/45r22 hankook dynapro on factory 22s attachicon.gifIMG_0218.PNGattachicon.gifIMG_0217.PNG

Good looking truck

 

 

2014 Chevy silverado Z71 DCSB w/Bilstein 5100 level

  • Like 1
Posted

275/60R20 Duratracs with 2" Motofab (lower spacer) with stock 20" rims. Idk the offset on them but many people have the same setup with a different brand tire and they do not rub. I was very surprised.

d593d6a6caf64176add219bdea636d0a.jpg

 

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

You can go to 275/65-20 without rubbing. +15 offset wheels.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Man there are some sharp looking trucks with just the leveled system. I plan on doing a 2.5" front with a 3" rear block. Just don't quite know what I want to run for wheels and tires yet.

 

Havok H109s 20x10's or 20's GMC Sierra Stockers...

post-129250-0-12163800-1494182704_thumb.jpg

post-129250-0-59167700-1494182708.jpg

post-129250-0-12163800-1494182704_thumb.jpg

post-129250-0-59167700-1494182708.jpg

post-129250-0-12163800-1494182704_thumb.jpg

post-129250-0-59167700-1494182708.jpg

post-129250-0-12163800-1494182704_thumb.jpg

post-129250-0-59167700-1494182708.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Hello all, just got my 2014 Sierra 1500 looking to do a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit and need some recommendations. I also tow a camper and was looking to putting airbags in. Has anyone done both and what brands have you used. Thanks for the help

Posted

Hello all, just got my 2014 Sierra 1500 looking to do a 2" or 2.5" leveling kit and need some recommendations. I also tow a camper and was looking to putting airbags in. Has anyone done both and what brands have you used. Thanks for the help

I have a RC 2 level with rear blocks and airride loadmaster 5000 airbag kit.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,943
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    Dom Colussi
    Newest Member
    Dom Colussi
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 483 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  
    • They’re not the same wiz as 10-15 years ago.  QC has fallen pretty hard.  The XP line was never good though in the first place.    https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/wix-filter-rusted-through.386492/post-6991372   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/i-ve-used-my-last-wix-filter.27299/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/looking-for-a-better-replacement-for-wix-51258.403977/   https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/convince-me-in-using-the-purolator-boss.401537/post-7420147   the forums are littered with posts and examples of not great wix filters the last couple years 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...