Jump to content

2014+ Leveling Kits

bcazier

By bcazier
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

amxguy1970 Senior Enthusiast

amxguy1970

Posted
Posted

So I was excited about getting my 2.5" Rough Country leveling kit on my 2017 Chevy High Country 4x4. I put it in yesterday, the lower piece on the bottom of strut, removed the strut spring and put in the round preload spacer, and then put in the 2" blocks. No issues installing. Have my factory 20" 275/55/20 tires and ordered Open Country II Extreme 285/55/20 and will leave them on factory rims for now.

SO IT RIDES LIKE A TANK after install!!! Is this normal? Rough Country says you can keep factory shocks. It feels like there is very little give. I see on so many posts that their trucks ride so good, man I'm jealous. I tried to upload photos but it says files are to big.

 

Do y'all have any ideas why it's riding so rough?

Should I take out the preload spacer?

 

Did you like your own post?

 

You should have done your homework, 2.5 is not what your front end is going to love. Most importantly though is you installed a pre-load spacer, that is why it is riding rough. Pre-load does just that, compresses the spring. When a spring is compressed it becomes stiffer, same thing happens with those who install the Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks, they also pre-load the spring. If you want a stock ride, get a top or bottom mount spacer. You can change shocks in this instance and it may help some but it won't change the spring being compressed and stiffer.

 

The closer to stock height the better, everything above that increase the wear and tear on your front end. 1 inch is better for your front end than a 2 inch, a 2 inch is better than 2.5 which is better than 3 and so forth. Research, do homework and see what others are doing and what is happening.

 

BTW, the extreme tires you are going to install are E-rated judging by their site, those will ride stiffer than your stock P-rated tires by a descent amount. Most likely you have no use for E-rated tires if you are concerned about ride, stick with P-rated unless you are going to regularly off road (is that why you bought a 4x4?) or tow and haul heavy loads often; other wise your mpg will take a nice hit as will your ride. Homework...

 

Tyler

  • Like 1
  • Replies 7.7k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

So i put my RC 2" level kit and Toyo 295/55/20's on this weekend. Install was simple, just like on my 2011. It definitely helps to have an extra set of hands when wedging that spacer in there. 295/

Saleenpowr
Saleenpowr

Thanks. Here is one more from yesterday. Considering we're getting 8-10 inches of rain the next two days, I won't be taking any better pics soon.  

FH212
FH212

Mine is finally done! After months of research I went with the RC 2.5" level kit front only, stock rear block. 20"x9" Fuel Nutz w/ +1 offset, 33x12.50x20 Toyo M/T tires. No rubbing, No trimming, yet a

Posted Images

mnm99 Enthusiast

mnm99

Posted
Posted

So I was excited about getting my 2.5" Rough Country leveling kit on my 2017 Chevy High Country 4x4. I put it in yesterday, the lower piece on the bottom of strut, removed the strut spring and put in the round preload spacer, and then put in the 2" blocks. No issues installing. Have my factory 20" 275/55/20 tires and ordered Open Country II Extreme 285/55/20 and will leave them on factory rims for now.

SO IT RIDES LIKE A TANK after install!!! Is this normal? Rough Country says you can keep factory shocks. It feels like there is very little give. I see on so many posts that their trucks ride so good, man I'm jealous. I tried to upload photos but it says files are to big.

 

Do y'all have any ideas why it's riding so rough?

Should I take out the preload spacer?

Can you post the kit your are talking about?

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted (edited)

Took some new photos today. No issues at all with this setup, except wanting to go higher without cutting my truck up..

 

RC 2” front level only

33x12.5x20 tires (305/55/20) says both sizes on tire

20x9 +0 wheels

 

c116dc74a62cd39b6bd01ae1b85ae0e7.jpg203159b7c290cb5b06d5d499e149ba6c.jpgdec9eb9db3c2872c2897f47b88ebe946.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited by Criscone
  • Like 3
cowboysfanmd Enthusiast

cowboysfanmd

Posted
Posted

I would assume the dealership did it as well... but i would pay attention to the tire wear. If the alignment is off the tires will be wearing more on one side than the other.

 

The alignment appears to be perfect, it's more that the feeling of the wheel is light Like the difference in having no power steering to having power steering. Take my wife's keep Grand Cherokee for example, it takes more strength to turn the wheel from right to left. the same was for the 17 loaner I had. If that makes sense.
OmniCamaro Enthusiast

OmniCamaro

Posted
Posted

The alignment appears to be perfect, it's more that the feeling of the wheel is light Like the difference in having no power steering to having power steering. Take my wife's keep Grand Cherokee for example, it takes more strength to turn the wheel from right to left. the same was for the 17 loaner I had. If that makes sense.

These trucks with the electric steering definitely take some getting used to. I think it feels too loose or touchy also. I wish we could tighten it up some.

 

 

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

tjrinaldi New Member

tjrinaldi

Posted
Posted

i have just purchaced A new 2017 LTZ 4x4, while it was in the dealership for some warranty work.I had had a Readylift 2.25" front and a 2" blocks for the back added to the truck. I love the look of the truck and am going to upsize the tires as soon as I can decide which to buy.

 

My question is, have any others noticed a difference in the feel of the steering wheel, when turning compared to the way it felt prior to the level kit and blocks?

 

In my opinion the steering is "lighter" meaning there is less resistance when turning the wheel. It does not matter which way I steer the truck, it does doesnt seem to have the same resistance.

 

I spoke to the Dealer , Ready lift AND 4 wheel parts, all of them said there should be little to no difference at all. I just received a loaner truce which was also a 17 4x4 and I can definitely tell the difference in the steering.

 

Have any of you experienced the same feeling in the steering, or is it just me? I have not found any comments on ANY blogs that reference these symptoms so I am beginning to wonder.

 

Also, will changing the shocks with 2.0s or something comparable, make my ride feel closer to the factory ride. Right now it kind of feels a little sensitive to bumps or un eaten roads.

 

I will appreciate any feedback you have to offer, thank you.

here is my two cents to this post:

 

I am coming to you from the European sportscar road-racing world, and what I can tell you about suspension geometry in lifting/lowering the center of gravity (SUSPENSION/BODY) in relation to the wheel is that of caster.

 

Consider the exact spot where the tire hits the pavement. This is like a small square area as wide as the tire or so. More CAMBER narrows the tire-to-tire distance as measured from the inner wall. Less CAMBER, or NEGATIVE CAMBER, widens the distance from inner lower tire to inner lower tire. Road racers run negative camber in order to gain handling through corners.

 

Let's talk CASTER though. Caster involves the wheel position as it relates to the vehicle's center of gravity and ultimately the steering pivot points. As the pivot points of steering drift behind the wheel, the CASTER becomes more positive (like the steering angle of a bigwheel when we were kids). The steering effort would be greater in this sense. More negative CASTER would create greater moment arms, resulting in lesser effort to maneuver the wheels of the vehicle, lending to a "looser" type feel. Incidentally, less caster makes the tires want to follow all the grooves in the pavement. More caster gives us this "stable" feeling of the steering at higher speeds i.e., the tires want to go along the path you tell them to thus increasing the effort it takes to maneuver them off that path.

 

Is it possible that lifting the geometry just a little bit is enough to decrease caster? Maybe YES. I wonder if GM has the provision to adjust caster as part of the alignment of the front end... a lot of stock suspension setups do not allow for caster adjustment....

  • Like 1
tjrinaldi New Member

tjrinaldi

Posted
Posted

Mines in the shop now getting the 2.5" Motofab level and 285/70/17 (32.7x11.2) MC MXT's on the stock wheels. Everything I've read says it shouldn't rub but I'll know for sure shortly!!! I think there are a lot of variables so we shall see....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

any chance you now have a pic of this setup? I want to do the same... without rub.

2017 silverado 8Jx17 STEEL wheels.... looking to do RC 2.5" level kit and 285/70 R17

tyrich88 Enthusiast

tyrich88

Posted
Posted

any chance you now have a pic of this setup? I want to do the same... without rub.

2017 silverado 8Jx17 STEEL wheels.... looking to do RC 2.5" level kit and 285/70 R17

You should be fine on a level. I ran 285s on a level with stock wheels for over a year and had no issues on or off road.

  • Like 1
Bomber55 Enthusiast

Bomber55

Posted
Posted

any chance you now have a pic of this setup? I want to do the same... without rub.

2017 silverado 8Jx17 STEEL wheels.... looking to do RC 2.5" level kit and 285/70 R17

3ffd67c5b0acf20f85c072cdd2113596.jpg

 

Been running it for a few weeks now, no rubbing and rides perfect. I’m very happy with this set up....better than I was expecting.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KyleGT Enthusiast

KyleGT

Posted
Posted

#1312

2.5" kit with 2" block

For stamped steel lower control arms

Weird. Mine is this one. Has a spacer that goes on top of the strut assembly rather than a preload spacer. 89aba2ecd6f8b8377f89a0ac8a9dbd39.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Criscone Enthusiast

Criscone

Posted
Posted

Yes that’s the older style, for non-stamped control arms.

 

 

Weird. Mine is this one. Has a spacer that goes on top of the strut assembly rather than a preload spacer. 89aba2ecd6f8b8377f89a0ac8a9dbd39.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

JV2522 New Member

JV2522

Posted
Posted

I have been searching through this post for a while, and cant find exactly what i am looking for. I have a 2015 All-Terrain that has a 2" level kit ( i don't know the brand, bc was put on before i bought it) on front and an 1.5" zone body lift. I am going to be needing tired in next couple of months. Currently have 275/65/20. Is this the largest can put on with no rub?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Black02Silverado
      Missing thrust bearing? And oil selection

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Maybe, but it seems he is the only one that has backed up data to prove what he is stating. I think he is doing this more because he enjoys it and wants to get the information out to us. He's got the knowledge and access to the proper equipment and having the funds doesn't hurt.  I would love to do what he is doing and would do it if and when I hit the Powerball.  I'm not a Tribologist by any means but love to learn what I can.   I would bet there would be doubting people out there if a completely independent lab with high quality work and highly respected in the automotive industry, put out information like this.  The world can't be pleased, one just has to take the information that they are given, do more of their own research to find actual lab data to back up what they are trying to figure/find out.  Most don't bother, they just want to believe what they first see.     I don't have the minimax but my 6.2 in my 2019 Silverado with 64k miles shows excellent UOA results with 0w-20 and for my own purposes 5w-20.  Since not much of a change using 5w. I liked the data sheet information on the SS 5w-20 and figured I would give it a try.  Still the same viscosity at 100℃.   In the end we all just do what makes us happy, life is too short to get upset over trivial social media.   On a side note, I do feel GM has dropped the ball and just cares about the bottom dollar and not quality anymore.  "Like a Rock" has been long gone.  Seems "Built Ford Tough" has as well.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      Thoughts on these wheels?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      Better than stock but that's like putting lipstick on a pig
    • flattop
      2026 sierra bad brake controller

      By flattop · Posted

      Hello, my 3 month old Sierra Elevation wont recognize a trailer with electric brakes? All the lights work correctly, but no power to the brakes?   This is the factory installed brake controller. If you manually push the knob, the display shows the power % but does not light up like my 2022 silverado.   I have an appointment with the dealer, but was checking to see if anyone else has seen this issue.    Thanks, 
    • Black02Silverado
      Post your latest oil change.

      By Black02Silverado · Posted

      Been using SS 0w-20 from new, but wanted to change to the 5w-20 because I liked the data on the data sheet, to me it seems like a little better product. But as you can see, not much difference. This is also with running a mix of 10 gallons E85 to a tank topped with 93. It isn't a flex fuel vehicle so any higher I get a CEL for running lean on both banks. Yes my mileage takes a hit. Instead of 20 mpg I normally get on trips I get 17mpg. This is also using EaO17 filter.  What is amazing is I have the AMSOIL cone filter on it since I have the GM Performance intake installed and that air filter has 44k miles on it.  I just take it out and shop vac it off once a year.  I use the upholstery tool on my shop vac.  Works well.   
    • revmanii
      Starting a new thread regarding mounting my 2014 OEM wheels to my 2026

      By revmanii · Posted

      So, lot's of googling and reading, and a trial fit found, that indeed they hit the newer fatter caliper. I did some re-testing today, and found just 3/16" worth of washers was enough for the wheel to spin freely. I added 2 more on each, and again it spun freely. Tested lock to lock with the 4 washers, about 5/16" not quite the 3/8" Im considering, but pretty close. No issues. I've been looking at the BORA .375" spacers and using extended lugnuts to get back lost thread due to the spacer. All the ET lugs I've seen are all .33" reach inside the wheel lug holes. For those that don't like spacers or think they're unsafe, I think it depends on what type of spacers you're using and making sure you get good quality hubcentric ones, and if you're using bolt on ones, regular mainenance, checking the spacer lugs. Not wanting or needing that much spread. Looking for the minimum that will let me run these rims and tires.  it does look to stick out a little, but I really want put these on. and use the stock all-terrains in the winter. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...