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Posted
So what’s the deal .. are people doing a 2” or so in the front and adding 1”’to the rear (meaning a new 2” block). I say that because isn’t that already a 1” block in the rear?


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Factory rear block is 1.25”. Most companies will just label their blocks down to the whole number, but still include that .25”.

The rough country 2.5 kit comes with new 2” (2.25”) rear blocks to help keep some rake.


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  • Like 1
Posted


Factory rear block is 1.25”. Most companies will just label their blocks down to the whole number, but still include that .25”.

The rough country 2.5 kit comes with new 2” (2.25”) rear blocks to help keep some rake.


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Thanks so much. I’ve heard SOME mixed reviews in that some people prefer kits that lift from the bottom of the strut as opposed to the top which allegedly limits extra wear in ball joints and provides a better ride than a spacer installed above the strut.

Input please?


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Posted



Thanks so much. I’ve heard SOME mixed reviews in that some people prefer kits that lift from the bottom of the strut as opposed to the top which allegedly limits extra wear in ball joints and provides a better ride than a spacer installed above the strut.

Input please?


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False, it’s just easier to install a spacer on the bottom because you don’t have to completely remove the strut. Anything that lengthens the strut will cause extra wear on the ball joints, as long as you don’t go over 2.5 inches without dropping the differential or control arms you will still get plenty of life out of your ball joints TYPICALLY. Driver and driving habits as well as frequent 4wd use will vary their life. Typically lift struts max out at 2 inches for leveling kits and will be stiff. Spacers slightly stiffen the ride up, I just did my 2.5 RC kit and the ride barely changed, it is slightly stiffer.


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Posted


False, it’s just easier to install a spacer on the bottom because you don’t have to completely remove the strut. Anything that lengthens the strut will cause extra wear on the ball joints, as long as you don’t go over 2.5 inches without dropping the differential or control arms you will still get plenty of life out of your ball joints TYPICALLY. Driver and driving habits as well as frequent 4wd use will vary their life. Typically lift struts max out at 2 inches for leveling kits and will be stiff. Spacers slightly stiffen the ride up, I just did my 2.5 RC kit and the ride barely changed, it is slightly stiffer.


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What he said. Bottom vs top is all about install difficulty. However you can only really lift 2” with the bottom spacer. If you want higher than 2” you must use top spacer or a combination of bottom and top because of clearance issues with the cv axle.


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Posted (edited)

Leveling Kit Questions.

Hi, New to the Forum thing

I have a 2018 4x4 SLT  and I want to put a leveling kit on it. Don't know if I should go 2 "or 2.2".

Will this affect the ride?

Will it affect my gas mileage?

If I install it do I need to get it aligned ?

Seen some videos , looks easy enough to install .

 

Thanks

Edited by Frank2018Crewcab4X4
Posted
1 hour ago, Frank2018Crewcab4X4 said:

Did you have to get an alignment ?  Did it affect your gas mileage ?...... Looks great.

I did need an alignment but didn’t notice much in terms of gas. I pulled the front dam off too so I’m sure I lost something in terms of mileage. 

Posted
Leveling Kit Questions.
Hi, New to the Forum thing
I have a 2018 4x4 SLT  and I want to put a leveling kit on it. Don't know if I should go 2 "or 2.2".
Will this affect the ride?
Will it affect my gas mileage?
If I install it do I need to get it aligned ?
Seen some videos , looks easy enough to install .
 
Thanks


Congrats on the new truck. 2” vs 2.2” will be a very minimal difference, more of a personal preference than anything, depends how much rake you want. It will make for a stiffer ride and you’ll probably lose 1-2mpg. Definitely get an alignment immediately after install. A good alternative if you’re worried about the ride, get some bilstein 5100s and you can get 1.8” on the max setting and get a really nice ride instead of using a spacer.


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Posted

Hey guys, instead of going though over 400 pages on this subject I’m hoping you can simply reply and help a guy out. Suspension is all new to me, I will also not be installing this; it will be a Shop.
 
I’ve decided to go with RC for everything. I’ve listed the items I’m grabbing below and curious if there will anything else I should do. The truck has 110,000 km on it.
 
 
7IN GM SUSPENSION LIFT
- GM 7IN LIFTED N2.0 STRUTS
- Premium N3 for the rear
**GM FRONT ADJUSTABLE VERTEX COILOVERS
**GM REAR ADJUSTABLE VERTEX SHOCKS
- Kicker Braces
- GM Upper Control Arms
- GM Traction Bar Kit
- GM SS Extended Front Brake Lines
- GM HEAVY DUTY TIE ROD SLEEVES | LIFTED KNUCKLE KITS
- FRONT CV DRIVE SHAFT
 
** - I may go with the vertex - undecided yet, do you think they would make a huge difference over the n2 and n3?
 
Any help here is greatly appreciated, totally new to this type of stuff.

Posted
6 hours ago, WesternMike said:

Hey guys, instead of going though over 400 pages on this subject I’m hoping you can simply reply and help a guy out. Suspension is all new to me, I will also not be installing this; it will be a Shop.
 
I’ve decided to go with RC for everything. I’ve listed the items I’m grabbing below and curious if there will anything else I should do. The truck has 110,000 km on it.
 
 
7IN GM SUSPENSION LIFT
- GM 7IN LIFTED N2.0 STRUTS
- Premium N3 for the rear
**GM FRONT ADJUSTABLE VERTEX COILOVERS
**GM REAR ADJUSTABLE VERTEX SHOCKS
- Kicker Braces
- GM Upper Control Arms
- GM Traction Bar Kit
- GM SS Extended Front Brake Lines
- GM HEAVY DUTY TIE ROD SLEEVES | LIFTED KNUCKLE KITS
- FRONT CV DRIVE SHAFT
 
** - I may go with the vertex - undecided yet, do you think they would make a huge difference over the n2 and n3?
 
Any help here is greatly appreciated, totally new to this type of stuff.

Try posting in the 2014+ Suspension Lift thread! I would think a few forum users have a similar setup.

Posted

New guy here, I recently got into a '14 Sierra Z71. I plan on getting a leveling kit and doing the install myself. I've got 3" of hideous rake. I don't mind a little, but 3" is a ton for me. I'm at 36" up front and 39" in the back. Does a 2.5" up front go up a true 2.5" or does it vary? 

 

Basically a 2.5" would put me at 38.5", half an inch lower than the back which I'm perfectly fine with. Am I correct with those measurements, or like asked above does it vary?

Posted

Finally got my 2017 all set up. Went with 20"x9" Fuel Mavericks gloss black w/ 33" Atturo trail blade MT's, 2.5 Motofab level kit. No rubbing at all.

Chevy1.jpg

Chevy2.jpg

Chevy3.jpg

Chevy4.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted
New guy here, I recently got into a '14 Sierra Z71. I plan on getting a leveling kit and doing the install myself. I've got 3" of hideous rake. I don't mind a little, but 3" is a ton for me. I'm at 36" up front and 39" in the back. Does a 2.5" up front go up a true 2.5" or does it vary? 
 
Basically a 2.5" would put me at 38.5", half an inch lower than the back which I'm perfectly fine with. Am I correct with those measurements, or like asked above does it vary?


My truck had the same before measurements but my rear was about 39 1/2.

Did the RC 2.5 kit with rear block and new measurements are 38.5 front and 40.25 rear. Here are some pics still waiting on my wheels and tires hopefully getting them tomorrow, sometimes truck has a good bit of rake still sometimes it doesn’t, all depends on grade. But definitely get rear blocks if you go 2.5 otherwise you will look nose high sometimes


3d9196f71e0e32ffd3259bcc7d9f311f.jpg399dcf203db1b1e914fcb04ecb68d078.jpg6eec6aeb7368174bc110bc161aa70a2d.jpg


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