TXGREEK Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 That's rich coming from the wealth of miss information I've seen you post before getting it deleted lolNo need to start feeling that insecure, wasn’t pointing the finger at you. Just made it clear that lots of people out there have no idea what they’re talking about especially getting involved in something they’ve got no idea what they’re talking about which misleads people into having more expenses. Sent from above
kennerz Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) 1 hour ago, TXGREEK said: No need to start feeling that insecure, wasn’t pointing the finger at you. Just made it clear that lots of people out there have no idea what they’re talking about especially getting involved in something they’ve got no idea what they’re talking about which misleads people into having more expenses. Sent from above Totally agree with Txgreek, I spent almost 6 months researching the topic before I actually spent money. I can tell you most of the info I read was wrong(everywhere not just on this site). Just slight changes and these things rub. And either limit how you can drive them or ride poorly. Fact is most of these level's are 2" or 2.5" - in reality that is not much of a change and it's not like you create all this room by doing it. Certain combos work but you really have to dig to figure it out. Truth is you will be hard pressed to run larger than a 33" tire and if not done right you will need to mod more or spend more to get it fully functional. Some people are happy with just the look and it goes down the road, that isn't good enough to me I want it to work right. Edited March 23, 2019 by kennerz spelling 1
TXGREEK Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 Totally agree with Txgreek, I spent almost 6 months researching the topic before I actually spent money. I can tell you most of the info I read was wrong(everywhere not just on this site). Just slight changes and these things rub. And either limit how you can drive them or ride poorly. Fact is most of these level's are 2" or 2.5" - in reality that is not much of a change and it's not like you create all this room by doing it. Certain combos work but you really have to dig to figure it out. Truth is you will be hard pressed to run larger than a 33" tire and if not done right you will need to mod more or spend more to get it fully functional. Some people are happy with just the look and it goes down the road, that isn't good enough to me I want it to work right. Bingo! When first started same BS was said to me, never had a level before until worried about getting into parking garages and it’s amazing the amount of bad information spewed out in these forums by either very cheap asses knowing damn well it’s going to rub but are either to stupid or just miserable people that think it’s ok and no big deal to have rubbing based on looks instead or then those that don’t even have the same size the OP requested about. I went from front and rear leveling blocks, new front and rear Bilstein 5100’s to then needing new +1 offset wheels which I sold stock wheels at the time the new wheels came out and donated the funds to a single mom with three kids at the tire store that needed new tires. I bought new wheels, tires and rode like CRAP! I was lucky to hear from people with actual experience not made up crap heard from he said she said etc etc, instead of buying front coil-overs I should just do the CST Lift which best fit my criteria with zero widening of the track width and ruining my stock turning radius and after consulting with my Off-Road shop that I frequently use for all my trucks and SUV’s I was told it’s the best out there. So I jumped on it and never looked back. I’d advise anyone looking to do a level to do a coil over level for better handling and much smoother ride but you’ll definitely need new UCA’s if doing 2.5 leveling coil overs. Good luck and God Bless! Sent from above
kennerz Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) Yeah, I think a lot of these levels make the tucks suck and then people sell them. I would say sites like custom offsets are purveyors of crap info, cause seriously you do this wrong and your turning radius disappears( like you will not be able to turn your steering wheel without major contact) and it will scrape the wheel wells going into any driveway. My tire guy actually told me straight even though I didn't want to believe him. Totally shot down my plans but in actuality everything he told me was correct . I ended up having to do it all myself. Levels work great but larger tires over a 32" or with any negative offset over stock or greater than zero (-18, -25, or God forbid -44) is not plug in play on these. Honestly if you want to run a larger tire you really need a 4" or more lift. And if you don't like large lifts (I don't like anything over say a 5" personal preference). The only reason for the large lift is to lift the body over the larger tire(raise the wheel out of the well) and in reality you will still contact depending on tire size and offset. You can do a 7" and still need a norcal. Seems like the sweet spot is the 4.5" along with a zero offset wheel. This set up allows for a lot of tire combos, just have to watch out on the negative offset set ups. But there you go, not going to throw on some blocks/spacers and call it a day - takes real work and planning, plus some cash. Edited March 23, 2019 by kennerz 2
rhill1 Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 Thanks for the info. So where I am is I already have the level kit on, went back to the shop that recommended the leveling kit after i told them what I wanted to do and their solution was to put steering stops on. He said at most 3/16 of an inch stop and no rubbing. I know this is somewhat of a bandaid and i will loose some turning radius but has anyone done this and know how much? They acted like it was no big deal and most lift kits did this as well. I don't have the funds to go a full on lift kit so looking for a solution to the situation as it is currently. Thanks so much
TXGREEK Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 Thanks for the info. So where I am is I already have the level kit on, went back to the shop that recommended the leveling kit after i told them what I wanted to do and their solution was to put steering stops on. He said at most 3/16 of an inch stop and no rubbing. I know this is somewhat of a bandaid and i will loose some turning radius but has anyone done this and know how much? They acted like it was no big deal and most lift kits did this as well. I don't have the funds to go a full on lift kit so looking for a solution to the situation as it is currently. Thanks so much Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above
TXGREEK Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 Thanks for the info. So where I am is I already have the level kit on, went back to the shop that recommended the leveling kit after i told them what I wanted to do and their solution was to put steering stops on. He said at most 3/16 of an inch stop and no rubbing. I know this is somewhat of a bandaid and i will loose some turning radius but has anyone done this and know how much? They acted like it was no big deal and most lift kits did this as well. I don't have the funds to go a full on lift kit so looking for a solution to the situation as it is currently. Thanks so much Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above
rhill1 Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 7 minutes ago, TXGREEK said: Try taking out the lower strut spacer and go from there. You’ll still have approximately 2” up front but may help with the rubbing. Do not recommend steering stops, you’ll 100% regret it! This is the main reason there are so many leveled trucks on used car sites, get into it not realizing the negative end results. Don’t remember the level setup you’ve installed, can you please brief me Sent from above It is the ready lift 2.25" leveling kit. Looking at their website now they sell the kit for 2016.5-2018 with new control arms to replace the stamped steel ones. Guess mine was installed before they had these available
TXGREEK Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 It is the ready lift 2.25" leveling kit. Looking at their website now they sell the kit for 2016.5-2018 with new control arms to replace the stamped steel ones. Guess mine was installed before they had these available I could be mistaken but I believe they’ve been out for years just not as a package till recently Sent from above
kennerz Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 I would Trim where you need to. You will get all the movement and steering range you had stock. If you want it clean do the zone trim plates. Only $20 and an hour or two of time depending on how proficient you are with mods. Or have someone install them for you. What is your tire/wheel/offset?
SS502 Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 18 minutes ago, rhill1 said: It is the ready lift 2.25" leveling kit. Looking at their website now they sell the kit for 2016.5-2018 with new control arms to replace the stamped steel ones. Guess mine was installed before they had these available Is it compatible with stock rims? If so I wonder if I can just order the UCAs to replace my stamped steel. I have the RC 2.25 level.
rhill1 Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 1 minute ago, SS502 said: Is it compatible with stock rims? If so I wonder if I can just order the UCAs to replace my stamped steel. I have the RC 2.25 level. Im not sure about that yet. I am going to be calling on monday and asking them that exact question. If so its probably worth a little investment to just replace the UCA and be done with it and no other mods liker steering stops etc. 1
SS502 Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 (edited) 3 minutes ago, rhill1 said: Im not sure about that yet. I am going to be calling on monday and asking them that exact question. If so its probably worth a little investment to just replace the UCA and be done with it and no other mods liker steering stops etc. Please post their reply, we can’t be the only ones lol Thank you!! Edited March 23, 2019 by SS502
acinquegrana Posted March 24, 2019 Posted March 24, 2019 20 hours ago, kennerz said: Totally agree with Txgreek, I spent almost 6 months researching the topic before I actually spent money. I can tell you most of the info I read was wrong(everywhere not just on this site). Just slight changes and these things rub. And either limit how you can drive them or ride poorly. Fact is most of these level's are 2" or 2.5" - in reality that is not much of a change and it's not like you create all this room by doing it. Certain combos work but you really have to dig to figure it out. Truth is you will be hard pressed to run larger than a 33" tire and if not done right you will need to mod more or spend more to get it fully functional. Some people are happy with just the look and it goes down the road, that isn't good enough to me I want it to work right. Also remember that when adding a level, it "pushes" the front suspension down, which actually brings the wheels in closer to the center of the truck, which makes it more prone to rubbing UCA, swaybar, and liner. My passenger tire rubs the UCA so slightly with stock 285's. Added .5" hubcentric spacers with extended thread lugs and all gone. I know most people cringe at the sound of wheel spacers, so did I. Never tried them other than my quads. So I tried them, and so far so good with about 3k miles on them zero issues. I do plan to go to the gmc all terrain 20's with 275 65 20 duratracs. I day dream about it. Hoping the 275 width won't rub, even then I wont mind running the spacers. I just like to keep my stuff as close to stock as possible without permanent mods.
wepiii Posted March 24, 2019 Posted March 24, 2019 Im not sure about that yet. I am going to be calling on monday and asking them that exact question. If so its probably worth a little investment to just replace the UCA and be done with it and no other mods liker steering stops etc. It’s compatible but will still rub with anything larger than 275/55r20. Even 275/60r20 will rub. I’ve tried it already. Bought them through amazon so I was able to return but still cost me labor. (This is with the 2.25 readylift level) A real lift is the way to go, but they don’t make the CST lift for 2wd, so here is where I landed: 1.5 inch motofab level 275/60r20 tires. Rubbed slightly on my sway bar, but my sway bar was offset to one side for some reason. Removed and recentered and it’s all good now. Shouldn’t have that problem, unless you get unlock like I did. The level being smaller allows that size tire without rubbing UCA’s. It isn’t perfectly level but it’s good enough for me and I’m happy with it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 1
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now