Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On ‎5‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 2:56 PM, Ryan Z71 said:

 

41216A4D-F24E-497F-8067-1216F1C41586.jpeg

Truck looks nice !

  • Thanks 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Can someone with a 2.5" up front get measurements from ground to fender? I feel like over the past 50k miles my truck has started to sag and isnt sitting as high as it use to..

 

When posting 2.5" measurements please include 2wd or 4wd and tire size.

 

Thanks

image.png

Posted
Can someone with a 2.5" up front get measurements from ground to fender? I feel like over the past 50k miles my truck has started to sag and isnt sitting as high as it use to..
 
When posting 2.5" measurements please include 2wd or 4wd and tire size.
 
Thanks
image.png.5a68d8bbb4866e6856384729b10b67f3.png
I have 2.5 front 1 rear. 305/65r18 tires. My fenders are around 40.5 front and 41.5 rear


Sent from my SM-G973W using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

I would like to install Motofab CH-25F-2R 2.5” front and 2” rear to my 2018 Silverado, do I also need the rear shock extensions? Are there any other parts, hardware or special tools to install? I am very mechanically inclined but have not worked on suspension much. Will I have any issues with my control arms with this particular kit? I am suiting I will also need to get a realignment as well, is this correct?

Edited by aleeuw
Posted
On 5/20/2019 at 6:15 PM, texasaggies16 said:

Can someone with a 2.5" up front get measurements from ground to fender? I feel like over the past 50k miles my truck has started to sag and isnt sitting as high as it use to..

 

When posting 2.5" measurements please include 2wd or 4wd and tire size.

 

Thanks

image.png

I feel like mines def sagged over the years. Threw mine on at 5k miles and am now at 50k and i feel like i can see a difference...

Posted (edited)
14 hours ago, aleeuw said:

I would like to install Motofab CH-25F-2R 2.5” front and 2” rear to my 2018 Silverado, do I also need the rear shock extensions? Are there any other parts, hardware or special tools to install? I am very mechanically inclined but have not worked on suspension much. Will I have any issues with my control arms with this particular kit? I am suiting I will also need to get a realignment as well, is this correct?

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

Edited by Pivot
Posted
31 minutes ago, Pivot said:

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

Thanks for the info. I would like to keep stock rims and tires as I have an LTZ with the 20s. Not sure if this combo will work or if I will have to change things up. 

Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Pivot said:

I'm learning as I go. If you are going 2 1/2" up front, at least be prepared to replace UCA's. Some guys say they are fine and wheel size and offset can come into play. I do know one thing. I ordered the 2" rear spacer from Motofab. Pulling the stock block and replacing with 2" should net you 3/4 inch lift in rear. I already have the Bilstein 5100's in my garage. They allow stock up to 1" lift. $70 each on Amazon. They would be nice upgrade over Ranchos anyhow and won't break the bank. 

 

Most say if you go much over 2" up front, you "COULD" have poor angles on UCA . This is usually disputed back and forth. I went with the new Struts and Coils up front from Bilstein.Model #6112. I should get 1 3/4 up front on max setting #4. Bilstein said they are designed with stock UCA in mind. Both shocks and coils run between $600-$700. You could also look at the adjustable 5100's up front at about $90 a pop. Get the same lift. You reuse stock coils to keep down price point. 

 

I'm waiting for the block to arrive from Motofab and then I have to pick out new wheels and bigger tires. Wait till you get into wheels, offsets, backspacing, various tire sizes..

 

Yes you will need a Front end Alignment anytime you change things up front. Wheels, tires, struts what have you. GL

If I go with 5100s in the front will I have issues with the UCA?

Edited by aleeuw
Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, aleeuw said:

Thanks for the info. I would like to keep stock rims and tires as I have an LTZ with the 20s. Not sure if this combo will work or if I will have to change things up. 

That's your call. You'll have to see how it looks when you lift. Tires might look small after lift. I have a 2017 High Country. That model comes with 20" rims and the Stock tires on mine are 275/55/20. Offset is+27. 

 

I have P rated tires. They are light and designed for road, highway, quiet and mpg. You move up to LT with some of the more aggressive treads and you can get in the range of mid 50# and even mid 60#'s each. 

 

I'm going to swap out those rims and move to a 33" tire. So far I'm trying to keep conservative and do a 275/60/20. That would bump be up from 31.9" to 33. Remember, I'm doing a level. I should be around 1 3/4"  higher up front on top setting. Lift it with the spacers and see what you think. The only drawback is you'd have to do a "Front End Alingment" after spacers and again if you deceide to move up in tires, but that 's only around $100. Tires and rims are cheap. GL

Edited by Pivot
Added *Alingment
Posted
3 hours ago, aleeuw said:

If I go with 5100s in the front will I have issues with the UCA?

If you only use the Bilstein 5100 on 4th setting , you should be good. That's about 1.75. Now if you are thinking of installing 2 1/2 spacer in front and then keeping the Bilsteins at stock or 0 setting, then thats up to debate on UCA. Most say it's no issue. Everything I've read is if you go much over 2" you could have a problem with the angle. It's crazy since no two trucks are exactly the same. Also remember lots of guys aren't stopping there and are going lower in offset to push wheel out, taller tires, wider tires. Pretty sure the 2018 stock UCA's are stamped steel like i have on 2017. They are wider and can get in the way faster than the aluminum or steel ones in older trucks. Remember that they have adjustable 5100's for the front. The rear 5100's in the rear are not adjustable. They are an upgrade and ALLOW up to an additional 1" lift. I have Z60 suspension vs Z71. Almost positive your stock shocks won't be long enough once you pull stock block and replace with 2". I thought the motofab info was a bit deceiving. I ordered CH-1R. That's a 2" block. They advertise as 1" level. It should net you 3/4 inch. I want to maintain a little bit of rake. They are easy to replace and cheap. Cheaper if you buy them in a package with the front spacers. 

Posted
3 hours ago, aleeuw said:

If I go with 5100s in the front will I have issues with the UCA?

Talking round numbers if you do the adjustable 5100 front and the 5100 rear (nonn adjustable) You are looking at $360. If you do the bilstein 6112 up front and 5100 rear, you are looking around $800. The 6112 comes with new coils and much beefier strut. Take a hard look at the Eibach Pro Truck Lift (stage 1). You can get the package front and rear shocks+ coils for under $600. Add a 2" block and $650 all in. I was real close to going this route. Check out Waterfowlers posts on Eibach. He did a great video on the entire install. Others are chiming in now that they really like. Here's a link if you haven't heard of it. 

 

https://eibach.com/us/i-8808-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html

Posted
24 minutes ago, Pivot said:

Talking round numbers if you do the adjustable 5100 front and the 5100 rear (nonn adjustable) You are looking at $360. If you do the bilstein 6112 up front and 5100 rear, you are looking around $800. The 6112 comes with new coils and much beefier strut. Take a hard look at the Eibach Pro Truck Lift (stage 1). You can get the package front and rear shocks+ coils for under $600. Add a 2" block and $650 all in. I was real close to going this route. Check out Waterfowlers posts on Eibach. He did a great video on the entire install. Others are chiming in now that they really like. Here's a link if you haven't heard of it. 

 

https://eibach.com/us/i-8808-pro-truck-lift-system-stage-1.html

Thanks for all the help! I will have to do some more research and see what will work best for my situation. I wish it was an easier decision. 

Posted
9 hours ago, techsan15 said:

I feel like mines def sagged over the years. Threw mine on at 5k miles and am now at 50k and i feel like i can see a difference...

Do you think its the springs or shocks possibly? Cant be the spacer since that doesnt change.. I thought about upgrading shocks since im at nearly 74k miles (level put on at 11k). 

 

New springs seems like a big hassle lol

Posted
7 hours ago, Pivot said:

That's your call. You'll have to see how it looks when you lift. Tires might look small after lift. I have a 2017 High Country. That model comes with 20" rims and the Stock tires on mine are 275/55/20. Offset is+27. 

 

I have P rated tires. They are light and designed for road, highway, quiet and mpg. You move up to LT with some of the more aggressive treads and you can get in the range of mid 50# and even mid 60#'s each. 

 

I'm going to swap out those rims and move to a 33" tire. So far I'm trying to keep conservative and do a 275/60/20. That would bump be up from 31.9" to 33. Remember, I'm doing a level. I should be around 1 3/4"  higher up front on top setting. Lift it with the spacers and see what you think. The only drawback is you'd have to do a "Front End Alingment" after spacers and again if you deceide to move up in tires, but that 's only around $100. Tires and rims are cheap. GL

You have to do an alignment either way. Bilstein 5100 or 6112 at anything other than stock height, or spacer, or eibach or anything that changes ride height. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,961
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    CockneyUSA
    Newest Member
    CockneyUSA
    Joined
  • Who's Online   4 Members, 1 Anonymous, 756 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 
    • I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work.   Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra.   If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported!   I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...