Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

2016 4wd, added motofab 1.5". I have parts to add 1" in rear, gonna hold off on that for now. Will wait and see what it looks like when I start towing a little more often.
Will keep stock tires a little longer, then race with 275/60/20 Cooper all terrains.
0bc8731709e72e9f5bf9fb9d0085a760.jpg

Sent from my SM-G930T using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Has anyone ordered from mrtmotorsports on here. I ordered an eibach pro truck kit and havent heard anything from them. My order is there on the internet but cannot get a response from them.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

Posted

I was quoted 400 bucks to level my truck. includes rough country 2 inch leveling kit, labor and alignment. Does that sound reasonable? I think i want the maxx suspension kit though.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
2 minutes ago, Jusaplaya said:

2015 Chevy Silverado 2.5 Motofab level and Toyo Mt 295/70R18 tires.  Got the truck back friday. 

IMG_20190712_162149542_HDR best size.jpg

I got the motofab 3" motofab and got 285 75 18 (35")

4 minutes ago, Jusaplaya said:

2015 Chevy Silverado 2.5 Motofab level and Toyo Mt 295/70R18 tires.  Got the truck back friday. 

IMG_20190712_162149542_HDR best size.jpg

On 12/30/2016 at 5:49 PM, CHowell1991 said:

I got my 2015 leveled yesterday with 285/75r18s on stock wheels. 2.25" readylift. e9fb32455eb6e7a1ab4290d687ba3600.jpg4f06d63c867457887ff070665de117df.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Do u have any problems at full lock?  My upper control arm is hitting something I don't know what. I think I need some wheel spacers to take care of that problem. I think I have a +30 range offset...........thanx

Posted
19 hours ago, chevytruck116 said:

I got the motofab 3" motofab and got 285 75 18 (35")

Do u have any problems at full lock?  My upper control arm is hitting something I don't know what. I think I need some wheel spacers to take care of that problem. I think I have a +30 range offset...........thanx

 

I am only hitting the carpet on both sides at full lock.  I need to cut it.  That is what the guy who installed it said.  I don't think I have any problems with control arms hitting.  I only have about 150 miles on it and haven't scrubbed.  I haven't really needed to lock the wheels.  I had 63k on my factory tires.  They were shot.  These tires seem to ride really good.  I wish I would have did this sooner.    

Posted

Just bought this 2018 and put 2" front Motofab lower spacer.

 

Tires are 275/60/R20 (33")

 

Love the new look.  Not sure on what to do with the air dam yet.

IMG_20190712_201448.thumb.jpg.76a4c1e637e528478327af04b70402e3.jpg

Posted
19 hours ago, chevytruck116 said:

I got the motofab 3" motofab and got 285 75 18 (35")

Do u have any problems at full lock?  My upper control arm is hitting something I don't know what. I think I need some wheel spacers to take care of that problem. I think I have a +30 range offset...........thanx

All I had to do is just zipped tie the liner at the bottom...i have borla 2" wheel spacers and it made it worse rubbing on the cab corner. But when the 285 75 on truck wears down im putting those wheel spacers on and then I be drooping to 33" tire

Posted
7 minutes ago, BKGarrison said:

Just bought this 2018 and put 2" front Motofab lower spacer.

 

Tires are 275/60/R20 (33")

 

Love the new look.  Not sure on what to do with the air dam yet.

IMG_20190712_201448.thumb.jpg.76a4c1e637e528478327af04b70402e3.jpg

Take it off it will look soooooo much better. I took my off?

Posted
On 7/12/2019 at 10:23 PM, navyguy357 said:

I was quoted 400 bucks to level my truck. includes rough country 2 inch leveling kit, labor and alignment. Does that sound reasonable? I think i want the maxx suspension kit though.

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

Might be a bit on the high side.  Figure the keys are roughly $100, add $75 for the alignment and an hour labor of $100 or so.

Posted
Just bought this 2018 and put 2" front Motofab lower spacer.
 
Tires are 275/60/R20 (33")
 
Love the new look.  Not sure on what to do with the air dam yet.
IMG_20190712_201448.thumb.jpg.76a4c1e637e528478327af04b70402e3.jpg
Did you get an alignment? What was the total cost?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, navyguy357 said:

Did you get an alignment? What was the total cost?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

Did the work myself, $30 for the kit, $80 for alignment.  Toe needs to be adjusted after lift for sure.  My castor and camber were still good.  Took me about 3-4 hours, most of that trying to get the upper ball joint to let go.

Posted
1 minute ago, navyguy357 said:

Did you get an alignment? What was the total cost?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

navyguy357

Yes u need an alignment ever time u do work to suspension when they did my it was like 60-70$ can't remember

Posted
navyguy357
Yes u need an alignment ever time u do work to suspension when they did my it was like 60-70$ can't remember
what is better, 2" level or 5100 shocks?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk

Posted
1 minute ago, navyguy357 said:

what is better, 2" level or 5100 shocks?

Sent from my SM-G955U1 using Tapatalk
 

I just have a motofab 3" strut spacer and then 2" rear block on my truck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,889
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    smandy
    Newest Member
    smandy
    Joined
  • Who's Online   5 Members, 0 Anonymous, 547 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Sure, but they do have some affordable options like the Trax, Trailblazer, Envista, and Encore. Some of these have a cheaper base price than the Civic, though the fuel economy isn’t as high. The main problem is that people WANT the highest trim with all the goodies and finance for like 7 years. That’s how ppl “afford” the more expensive vehicles. 
    • Holy s**t - not much of a parts thrower you say? You BLASTED that thing with the parts cannon!  You'd have been probably $1,000 ahead if you had just brought it to a competent shop rather than shotgunning a bunch of parts it clearly didn't need.   Just FYI - oil additives are really, REALLY good at ONE thing ... and that's emptying your wallet. They're ALL useless gimmicks.   If that has the L94 or L99, then #7 is an AFM cylinder. I'd suspect a failed lifter in that case.   If you leaned on wiring, sensors, and/or connectors while changing the oil, you'll have to check all that to be sure pins didn't get pulled out, connectors broken, etc.. Old wire loom that was barely adequate when new is certainly brittle by year 19 - make sure wires aren't chaffed and shorting out somewhere where you might have leaned. or supported yourself on it.   If your a mechanic, why didn't you just find out what you were missing and troubleshoot from there??  TIMED spark, fuel PSI / injector pulse, air, compression.  Can't make ANY money going the parts cannon route.
    • LOL! Are you joking?? That wax SUCKS! 100% gimmick made to "look" good.    After just TWO winters I had severe surface rusting in patches over 90% of the frame. Only reason it looks great in the pics is because I SATURATED the frame every single fall with used motor oil for 14 of the 16 years I owned it. Otherwise it would've been sent to the crusher 8 years earlier with the speed it was rusting prior!    I sold that POS 3 years ago. Was a gigantic headache the second it rolled off the showroom floor. Brakes pulsated on the TEST DRIVE. Door trim fell off the 1st week! Interior squeaked and rattled, and the drivetrain clunked after 2k miles. 4x4 switch failed shortly after. Front end - ball joints, struts, hub bearings - all failed between 38k-50k. Engine started burning oil at 50k. Rear and and transmission failed before 100k. Nothing but problems, and frustration with the piss-poor engineering designed to make you give up. Well, it worked! Nothing on that truck was easy to remove ... except the wheels. They haven't figured out how to screw that up yet. Give 'em time ...   I won't make that mistake again. EVER.   Such fond memories ... https://postimg.cc/K1qf23tS  https://postimg.cc/gallery/X02z64J  https://postimg.cc/gallery/mHSRXZv  https://postimg.cc/gallery/D4mMRfL
    • Different monitors do their test only under conditions specific to that monitor.  you MIGHT find the drive cycle conditions for the monitor that isn't ready on this site: https://lemon-manuals.la/   If it's not there, then it should be on alldata.com for your truck, but it requires a paid subscription.   And you need to know which specific monitor isn't ready.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...