Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Here's my 2014 SLT 6.2 and my 2011 SLT 6.2. Got tired of waiting for my max tow 6.2. Love it so far.post-123886-0-08504900-1385600451_thumb.jpg

post-123886-0-08504900-1385600451_thumb.jpg

post-123886-0-08504900-1385600451_thumb.jpg

post-123886-0-08504900-1385600451_thumb.jpg

Edited by dlockwood26
  • Like 1
Posted

Here are some updated pictures with the N-Fab Bars installed. If you are considering any step bars or light bars N-Fab is the way to go. They fit perfect, the welds are excellent, and the paint quality is terrific as well. There is no comparison to the oversized factory bars.

 

http://n-fab.com

 

DSC_0007_zps45baad59.jpg

 

DSC_0005_zpsc335c15f-1.jpg

 

DSC_0004_zpsf32ac25a-1.jpg

 

DSC_0002_zps71c25d77.jpg

 

DSC_0010_zpsca245c74-1.jpg

  • Like 4
Posted

denali7-1.jpg

 

I guess I have kinda, sorta broke the code. I'm sure I still don't have it right because this is currently a seriously painstaking process to get the picture from photobucket to the forum. Either case, this is my 6.2 Denali. I took delivery on Nov. 7th and have made numerous mods since.

  • Like 3
Posted

denali4.jpg

 

Here's one more. I'm done! Next time, I'll be able to post pics all in the same post. These were experiments. Sorry for the three separate posts but that was the best I could do today.

  • Like 1
Posted

Mine with all the latest additions.

Color matched mudflaps

Weathertech window visors

Chrome grill

Bowties plasti dipped

 

Future:

Full exhaust

Tune

Under seat storage box (should be here today)

 

IMG_0403_zpsf51744da.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

Hey can you post pics of your Katzkin leather back seats? Thanks. I appreciate it.

pretty crummy pic, but they look exactly like the fronts

 

photo-3_zpsa84840e1.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Here a quick picture of my loaner Sierra while I wait for mine to be done. I get to do all the things I would never do with my own truck with this thing and it takes it all.

 

IMG_0823.JPG

Posted

New to the forum, here is my 2014 Silverado LTZ Crew Cab 2WD, Fully Loaded. Silver Ice Metallic with black perforated leather seats. So far I've swapped out the oem chrome mesh to a black oem mesh grille, I have color matched handles I need to install and I've done a little debadging. Getting 5% tint and a bed liner next week, lowering shackles to level the rear. I'm really wanting to find pricing on an OEM GMC All Terrain Rear Bumper without the steps, but have had no luck so far.

 

8C8BEABB-9601-4544-887E-047ADAD57A1D_zpsgotrovce.jpg

 

EE28EDE1-0297-4825-934C-4A511D467A87_zps8yndcgjn.jpg

 

6E41C69C-FC60-4A70-ACC8-6EAA01C296DD_zpsl3wbisqu.jpg

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I have the same running boards on my truck and I do agree they are bulky. I also find myself stepping over them when getting in and out of the truck. Besides providing protection to the rocker panels, they aren't very useful.  I will be replacing them soon with the Amp Powersteps. 
    • Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • 10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...