Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I have the bell tech rear shackle with the block removed and rides no different than stock. Springs are the same, just slightly different attachment point. Not low enough to bottom out.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

Posted
On 7/19/2018 at 6:46 PM, Dinner said:

Alright, I'm going to need some help here guys. My gut and measurements tell me that the rear DJM 7" flip kit lowered it too much but I want to know what I should do.

 

Put it on a flat surface (alignment rack) and here is what I have from fender to wheel centre.

 

DF - 18" 1/8        PF - 18" 5/8    - 1/2" difference which should be fixed by pulling the 10mm spacer on PF to account for the "Chevy Lean" 

DR - 17" 1/2        PR - 17" 3/4  

 

Now another concern is the rear wheels sit way back in the wheel well. 

 

DR is 1" 7/8 - Tire to bottom of wheel well 
PR is 2" - Tire to bottom of wheel well 

 

Is this normal? 
Any help would be appreciated. 

I went with the DJM kit cause I could adjust the pinion angle which was great cause I have ZERO vibrations but this cali lean is driving me nuts 

Update...

Installed the 6526 Belltech kit and got some better results 

 

DF 18           PF 18.5             *Haven't pulled the PF spacer yet* 

DR 18.25      RR 18.5 

 

The rear wheels sit a little more centre in the wheel well but not by much 

 

DR is 2" from the tire to the rear fender lip
RR is 2.5" from the tire to the rear fender lip 

 

No vibrations. Going to drive it home and back to work tomorrow and re-check all the bolts and maybe see I can shift the driver side ahead at all to make a little less noticeable. 

 

Any suggestions? I've seen a lot K2 trucks around 5-8" drop in the rear with wheels sitting centre and some I see are way pushed back. Going to assume that the ones that are centre have had they're driveshafts shorten? 

 

 

Posted
36 minutes ago, Dinner said:

Update...

Installed the 6526 Belltech kit and got some better results 

 

DF 18           PF 18.5             *Haven't pulled the PF spacer yet* 

DR 18.25      RR 18.5 

 

The rear wheels sit a little more centre in the wheel well but not by much 

 

DR is 2" from the tire to the rear fender lip
RR is 2.5" from the tire to the rear fender lip 

 

No vibrations. Going to drive it home and back to work tomorrow and re-check all the bolts and maybe see I can shift the driver side ahead at all to make a little less noticeable. 

 

Any suggestions? I've seen a lot K2 trucks around 5-8" drop in the rear with wheels sitting centre and some I see are way pushed back. Going to assume that the ones that are centre have had they're driveshafts shorten? 

 

 

Yes. Change the flip kit. My mcg kit is centered. and it wont loosen up like the djm tends to do

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, Nasty said:

Yes. Change the flip kit. My mcg kit is centered. and it wont loosen up like the djm tends to do

The DJM is gone, this is a Belltech which is very similar to the Mcg and fixed 98% of my issues. Going back on the hoist tomorrow to double check torque and everything else 

 

 

 

 

thumbnail_IMG_0778.jpg

Edited by Dinner
  • Like 1
Posted
The DJM is gone, this is a Belltech which is very similar to the Mcg and fixed 98% of my issues. Going back on the hoist tomorrow to double check torque and everything else 
 
 
 
 
thumbnail_IMG_0778.thumb.jpg.ec0f70268767bc7b79220d6f6c32a44d.jpg
Is that 4/6?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
The DJM is gone, this is a Belltech which is very similar to the Mcg and fixed 98% of my issues. Going back on the hoist tomorrow to double check torque and everything else 
 
 
 
 
thumbnail_IMG_0778.thumb.jpg.ec0f70268767bc7b79220d6f6c32a44d.jpg
Is that 4/6?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
8 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

Is that 4/6?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

4/7 but it ended up measuring out to a 3.75 / 6.5 

Posted
22 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

It depends, do you use your truck to go off roading any? If you do then stick with the level up front. If you do no off roading then I say drop the back, the level up front is adding more stress to components even though many say it doesn't. I don't see what components have added stress with the shackles.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk
 

Is there a noticeable difference in the rear ride, when shackles are added?  Trying to figure out if the ass rides like ass after the drop, lol.

Posted
Is there a noticeable difference in the rear ride, when shackles are added?  Trying to figure out if the ass rides like ass after the drop, lol.
For me no. I had the truck stock for about 3 months maybe before I had the shackles installed. Going on 16 months with the shackles and I don't remember the truck riding any different stock.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Posted
I wanted to chime in here as well.
 
2014 Silverado DCSB LT Z71 4WD.

Really wanting to lower it at some point. I've looked at every possible kit for these trucks and just not sure where to go with it mainly because of the fact that it's 4WD. I know there's companies out there making stuff for the truck, but when you're like me and have never done suspension work or even lowered a pickup before, things can get a tiny bit overwhelming pretty quickly.

I planned on starting out on either an easy 2/3 drop (while upgrading shocks and struts since the ranchos have 70K+ miles on them now) to get a feel for how I'd like having the truck lowered, and possibly going to a 3/5 or 4/6, but biggest things I'm concerned about are the driveshafts and CV axles (All of which really ought to be upgraded since I would like to go faster, but that's a different topic for a different area of the forum) and pinion angles, etc. All that fun stuff.

Am I really making it out to be that hard in my head, or is there honestly more to it?
 
Forgive me if this has been long since discussed. Trying to dig through 106 pages of posts is going to get tiring quick. So, I do apologize if it's been discussed. I figured it'd be easier to reply here rather than start a new thread.

Go with Mcgaughys kits they use the same parts in a lot of their kits that are used by GM; example their leaf springs for the 2014+ lowering kits the leafs are from same company that makes GM’s they just have less of an arch so u could swap ur leafs for Mcgaughys and have same ride quality! I actually used to co-own a performance shop and we rep’d Beltech at the time. I swapped to Mcgaughys due to ride quality for my personal vehicles. This 2014 4wd All-Terrain makes the 13th lowered vehicle Ive owned and 5th 4wd lowered. aecf28749b90703cafdd8c75b7d15360.jpg3def495e8aa0156c2ab97e8708505bbb.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do.  Any opinions are welcomed.

 

I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it.  Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it.  Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop.  I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think.  Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is?  Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while.  Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear?  I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on.  Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. 

 

Current:

znNfVNK.jpg

 

How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):

bFwomNb.jpg

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do.  Any opinions are welcomed.
 
I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it.  Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it.  Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop.  I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think.  Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is?  Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while.  Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear?  I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on.  Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. 
 
Current:
znNfVNK.jpg
 
How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):
bFwomNb.jpg
 
 
I did the Belltech 6401 kit, shackles and nut spacers for removing the block and I'm perfectly level, within ⅛" all the way around, on my 17 Crew Cab LT. Rides great, no issues, with stick size tires.

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
3 hours ago, Breedsrt said:

Any know of any good shops around north Houston that can install a Belltech 2/4 lowering kit?

Reklez in pearland

Posted
On 8/15/2018 at 4:52 AM, jegreenwood14 said:

FUUUUU... so conflicted on what I want to do.  Any opinions are welcomed.

 

I have had my truck for a while now, and put a leveling kit on the week I bought it.  Have since added larger tires, and been driving the hell out of it.  Thinking of dropping it back down to stock, and either removing the blocks or adding a 2" shackle drop.  I know it won't be perfectly level, but it'll be close enough I think.  Should I go through the trouble of removing the spacer/adding shackles/removing the block, or just leave as is?  Would also probably trade back for 20s like I had when I bought it, but might roll with 18s for a while.  Think I could fit my 33s at stock height with a dropped rear?  I have a new set of 275/65/18 in the garage, that I pulled off these wheels when I got them.. I could toss those back on.  Wouldn't mind the stock ride again, and if I drop it back down I think it'll be low enough that I can take my steps off and the wife can get in without complaining. 

 

Current:

znNfVNK.jpg

 

How I'd look if I dropped back down to stock and removed the block/added a 2" shackle drop (this truck was posted on here a while back):

bFwomNb.jpg

 

 

Here’s mine with a 2” drop shackle to give you an idea. Bottom pic is with 24s on 395/35 tire. I’m looking into a 4/6 or 5/7 drop kit now. Just kinda undecided between MG or the Inez kit. 

39AA81EE-5ED1-43F7-AAC5-882B862F2056.jpeg

2C68A196-EB86-4F99-8F51-FB3EE255070A.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...