Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
7 minutes ago, Dinner said:

Haven't posted in awhile - At least since I've installed my new wheels.  22x9.5 KMC Prism Truck in brushed silver wrapped in 285/40R22 Nitto 420S - Super happy with the look but dealing a slight vibration around 115-120 km/h - They were a bitch to balance so thinking I need to re do them or see if I have a rear bad tire. 

 

Also, finally removed the PF strut spacer to level out the front side to side and got my camber adjusted to a more respectable amount (-0.8 to -0.9) 

 

Full paint correction and ceramic coating too.

 

Looking into going lower eventually. Would like to do 5/8 or 6/8 with twisted metal works upper arms, either their coil over kit or Belltech coil overs, then twisted metal works under bed notch with either Viking or Ridetech adjustable shocks - These Belltech SP shocks are just too damn stiff on these K2 trucks 

truck.jpg

I have a custom twisted metal works notch if your interested. The stock ones you are able to go 10" drop on the back.  I had then make mine so I could go about 8 maybe 9 in the rear.  But I'm not notching my truck anymore

  • Like 1
  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

Dinner Enthusiast

Dinner

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Nasty said:

I have a custom twisted metal works notch if your interested. The stock ones you are able to go 10" drop on the back.  I had then make mine so I could go about 8 maybe 9 in the rear.  But I'm not notching my truck anymore

It'll be a while yet before I pull the trigger. I feel like I'm in the same boat as you with going lower and having to start cutting. There's a few local fabricators in my area that I'm talking to see if I'm comfortable with them getting into this thing. I know it sounds stupid but I'm hesitate to molesting vehicles 

  • 2 weeks later...
Silver ice 6.2 Senior Enthusiast

Silver ice 6.2

Posted
Posted
On 7/2/2019 at 5:43 PM, UofAZCats said:

Thinking about putting on a rear sway bar.  The Hellwig 7735 is the primary choice.  I am concerned reading in a couple of places that there are issues with fit in certain situations.  My truck is lowered 2/4.5 ish.  I have the stock exhaust.  I have read a review that indicated an issue with the spare tire and another that said it had an issue with the stock exhaust.  I am sure none of these were from lowered truck owners.  Anyone have any issues installing this bar in this situation? 

I have one for sale... all parts and bolts are on deck... fits perfectly fine with spare tire and I’m a 7 inch drop in the rear and doesn’t hit or run stock exhaust

UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Silver ice 6.2 said:

I have one for sale... all parts and bolts are on deck... fits perfectly fine with spare tire and I’m a 7 inch drop in the rear and doesn’t hit or run stock exhaust

Why are you selling it?  Did it improve your ride?  I might be interested but I am not thinking about the Roadmaster Active Suspension based on reading another members experience and what that provides versus the sway bar.

Silver ice 6.2 Senior Enthusiast

Silver ice 6.2

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, UofAZCats said:

Why are you selling it?  Did it improve your ride?  I might be interested but I am not thinking about the Roadmaster Active Suspension based on reading another members experience and what that provides versus the sway bar.

Yes improvements in ride quality... regretting taking it off... but I’m going to end up linking the rear... so it was going to come off anyway... and reason I’m selling is to help someone else out who might need it...

Charles Baltimore Enthusiast

Charles Baltimore

Posted
Posted

Very happy with the 2/4 Drop.  Only real issues seems to be turning when in Reverse, and slight vibration at 65mph.  Went with Adjustable Bilstein 5100 up front with Drop Spindles.  Actually considering raising fronts to reduce reverse issues.  Is it advisable to use lift strut with drop spindle?  Already cut away carpet and some plastic where contact happened.  Still only have 1/2 lock while backing up.

9B225A16-0737-4297-A4CD-488C2123AD30.jpeg

  • Like 2
Imperial91 Enthusiast

Imperial91

Posted
Posted
Very happy with the 2/4 Drop.  Only real issues seems to be turning when in Reverse, and slight vibration at 65mph.  Went with Adjustable Bilstein 5100 up front with Drop Spindles.  Actually considering raising fronts to reduce reverse issues.  Is it advisable to use lift strut with drop spindle?  Already cut away carpet and some plastic where contact happened.  Still only have 1/2 lock while backing up.
9B225A16-0737-4297-A4CD-488C2123AD30.thumb.jpeg.1128100d63f4b311c61166f0b1dfa44c.jpeg



Most drops use an adjustable strut to go lower combined with drop spindles, so I don’t see why not. I probably wouldn’t go to the top ring though haha!

Are those Trail blades? Looks like an aggressive sidewall for a lowered truck.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Charles Baltimore Enthusiast

Charles Baltimore

Posted
Posted

Very happy with the 2/4 Drop.  Only real issues seems to be turning when in Reverse, and slight vibration at 65mph.  Went with Adjustable Bilstein 5100 up front with Drop Spindles.  Actually considering raising fronts to reduce reverse issues.  Is it advisable to use lift strut with drop spindle?  Already cut away carpet and some plastic where contact happened.  Still only have 1/2 lock while backing up.

Melks Enthusiast

Melks

Posted
Posted
On 7/22/2019 at 5:06 PM, Charles Baltimore said:

Very happy with the 2/4 Drop.  Only real issues seems to be turning when in Reverse, and slight vibration at 65mph.  Went with Adjustable Bilstein 5100 up front with Drop Spindles.  Actually considering raising fronts to reduce reverse issues.  Is it advisable to use lift strut with drop spindle?  Already cut away carpet and some plastic where contact happened.  Still only have 1/2 lock while backing up.

9B225A16-0737-4297-A4CD-488C2123AD30.jpeg

Looks great!

  • Like 2
  • 1 month later...
Vulcan762 Enthusiast

Vulcan762

Posted
Posted
On 6/22/2019 at 4:49 PM, Nasty said:

The proper way would be flip kit withift hanger and drop shackle. But you dont want to do all that. So its best you just do a 1/3 drop

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 

Thanks for the info. After much reading it sounds like drop spindles up front and flip kit in the rear. I would like to have correct length shocks to avoid shock extenders but cant seem to determine the size as most are designed to lower which Im already doing. I know that sounds stupid but I want to be sure i get the right parts. 

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
42 minutes ago, Vulcan762 said:

Thanks for the info. After much reading it sounds like drop spindles up front and flip kit in the rear. I would like to have correct length shocks to avoid shock extenders but cant seem to determine the size as most are designed to lower which Im already doing. I know that sounds stupid but I want to be sure i get the right parts. 

Shock extenders are better to have because it corrects shock angle 

Vulcan762 Enthusiast

Vulcan762

Posted
Posted
On 9/6/2019 at 8:37 AM, Nasty said:

Shock extenders are better to have because it corrects shock angle 

I cant see how the geometry of shock extenders vs. shorter shocks would make any difference?

Nasty Senior Enthusiast

Nasty

Posted
Posted
I cant see how the geometry of shock extenders vs. shorter shocks would make any difference?
When shocks are at an extreme angle, the shock doesn't use it's full stroke. It rides softer and more sloppy

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • parthery
      GM Hard Folding Tonneau by REV review

      By parthery · Posted

      Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...