Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just an update, after three years in the making, finally i got  my 275/35 r24 on a 4/6 drop.

D76F25D7-5CE4-4994-9993-CD758754B022.jpeg

  • Like 3
Posted
1 minute ago, 204-WPG said:

Just an update, after three years in the making, finally i got  my 275/35 r24 on a 4/6 drop.

D76F25D7-5CE4-4994-9993-CD758754B022.jpeg

That is a great looking truck.  Well done.

Posted
9 minutes ago, 204-WPG said:

Just what I thought. Have you tried reaching out to Belltech to inquire if this flip kit install set up can also be done? I am just worried of the safety aspect, that’s all.

I had driven around with the bottom plate on top and no plate on the bottom for over a year with the only concern being that the rear wheels looked like they were moving back in the wheel well.  Part of that I attribute to the lack of a plate on the bottom that would hold the u-bolts in place.  With this set up the top plate (which is on the bottom) is held in place by the leaf spring bolt and this holds the u-bolts in place.  The purpose of the plates and the u-bolts is to hold the axle and leaf spring together in the right spot.  With the bolt on the bottom and another in the top holding the plates in the right spot it shouldn't matter which plate is where.  Belltech shouldn't answer the question because of liability concerns, so no I didn't bother to ask them.

Posted
6 hours ago, 204-WPG said:

Just an update, after three years in the making, finally i got  my 275/35 r24 on a 4/6 drop.

D76F25D7-5CE4-4994-9993-CD758754B022.jpeg

Congrats on getting it done.  Looks very good!

Posted
19 hours ago, UofAZCats said:

 The purpose of the plates and the u-bolts is to hold the axle and leaf spring together in the right spot.  With the bolt on the bottom and another in the top holding the plates in the right spot it shouldn't matter which plate is where. 

Do you have any driveline vibration? I thought the bottom plate tilted the rear diff up to keep the driveline angles good.

Posted
1 hour ago, SeekAndDestroy said:

Do you have any driveline vibration? I thought the bottom plate tilted the rear diff up to keep the driveline angles good.

I haven't noticed any vibration.  I hadn't thought about your question but in thinking about it with the way the plates were situated with the top plate on the bottom centered on the leaf spring bolt it sits a little forward of the bottom plate on top so the u-bolts are angled from bottom front to top rear which pushes the bottom plate on top forward which would tilt the axle forward a small amount.

Posted
On 9/14/2020 at 6:06 PM, SeekAndDestroy said:

Do you have any driveline vibration? I thought the bottom plate tilted the rear diff up to keep the driveline angles good.

 

On 9/14/2020 at 8:18 PM, UofAZCats said:

I haven't noticed any vibration.  I hadn't thought about your question but in thinking about it with the way the plates were situated with the top plate on the bottom centered on the leaf spring bolt it sits a little forward of the bottom plate on top so the u-bolts are angled from bottom front to top rear which pushes the bottom plate on top forward which would tilt the axle forward a small amount.

 

Well I was wrong.  I got the second RAS installed last night and tightened them both down.  I had a vibration in the lower speeds that either got a little worse as the day went on or my patience for it got worse.  When I got home from dinner tonight I took them off.  I have thought about it and the top plate which was mounted on the bottom was pushed forward it because that plate only has one hole in the middle of the plate.  The plate on the bottom though is supposed to be offset from the leaf spring bolt and not centered.  If I can get a hole drilled in the plate in the right location I should be able to fix the vibration problem. 

 

Another option I am considering is using the original stock block that came between the axle and the leaf springs.  The block has a hole on one side of the block that could fit on the bottom of the leaf spring and has its own nub on the opposite side of the block.  As I noted in my original the bottom plate in its correct location did not leave room for the RAS arm to get under the leaf spring.  With the block on the bottom of the leaf spring the correct bottom plate could be installed on the bottom of that which would allow enough space to install the RAS arm as it is supposed to.  The reason I didn't try that is because that block has ridges in the side with the nub that would keep the plate from sitting flat.  To use the block would require getting those ridges cut off.  

 

Either option likely needs a machine shop because I don't have the tools.  

 

The other issue is that with the RAS tightened down it lifted the rear end 1 inch which I am not cool with at all.  Before the install I have a leaf spring connected to the 2" drop shackle at the second hole (the one closest to the reverse hanger which is the 1.5" setting) of the two holes. There are no other holes that could be used to offset the extra inch with those shackles.  I have my stock shackles but those would really drop the rear and have it lower than the front.  Based on comparison of the drop shackle to the stock shackle there is like a 3" difference in length between hole locations so I am not sure how the drop shackles are only considered 2" drop shackles with a 3" difference.  Not sure if the sell a 1" drop shackle or not.  Anyone with ideas to help with this issue is appreciated.  To me this may be the tougher issue to address.

Posted
10 hours ago, UofAZCats said:

I got the second RAS installed last night and tightened them both down.  I had a vibration in the lower speeds that either got a little worse as the day went on or my patience for it got worse. The plate on the bottom though is supposed to be offset from the leaf spring bolt and not centered.  If I can get a hole drilled in the plate in the right location I should be able to fix the vibration problem. 

 

The other issue is that with the RAS tightened down it lifted the rear end 1 inch which I am not cool with at all.  Before the install I have a leaf spring connected to the 2" drop shackle

The only benefit from the RAS is towing. If I wanted to tow with my lowered truck I would put air bags and a rear sway bar on. You mentioned that you don't tow so I assume you are trying to get more traction or just a tighter rear end feeling. A set of traction bars, like Cal-Tracs, and a rear sway bar will probably get you a similar feeling to the RAS, and way less hassle to install. Traction bars mount under the leaf springs and the Hellwig sway bar works for our trucks that have a flip kit. I ordered the sway bar and will be installing it soon.

 

Personally I wouldn't modify the flip kit. It was designed to keep the pinion angle set properly to keep vibration, and wear on the u-joints to a minimum. If you are going to run it with the top and bottom plates flipped around and modified, it might twist the u-bolts into an unnatural position and they will eventually break. You will also have to put shims in to correct the pinion angle.

 

The shackles aren't really "drop" shackles they are actually lift shackles. The flip kit by itself (with factory shackles) lowers the rear 7" and then you get shackles to raise it back up the desired amount. So if you have 2" shackles then your rear is lowered by 5". They do make them in 1" increments because you can have anywhere from a 4" total drop to a 7" drop in the rear, with a flip kit.

 

In the end its your truck, but I would put the flip kit back to "stock" and sell the RAS, then buy traction bars and a sway bar. These will not change the drop height and you won't have to worry about changing the shackles. Also the pinion angle will be way closer to factory spec as Belltech designed into the flip kit.

  • Like 1
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 10/15/2020 at 9:01 PM, Melks said:

2/5 

Screen Shot 2020-10-15 at 9.01.23 PM.png

Looks great, love those wheels. 

Posted

Belltech 4/7 with 0.5" lift shackle. Only a few more drives before winter storage 

thumbnail_IMG_0178.jpg

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hey, I have a 2016 Silverado 4x4  crew cab and was wondering if I would have any alignment issues.  I'm trying to go with a 3/6 but camber and alignment issues are what is really making me worried. The kit is a maxtrac which comes with 2 inch drop spindles, 1 inch drop spring, and a adjustable flip kit 5 to 6 inches of drop. Do any of you have experience with aligning a dropped 4x4? 

 

Here is the kit: https://maxtracstore.com/2014-2016-chevy-silverado-1500-2wd-4wd-1pc-drive-shaft-3-5-lowering-kit-maxtrac-ks331535/ 

 

Here is a picture of the truck(Note: this truck has been crashed before): 20201006-145839-1.jpg

Posted
9 minutes ago, 666 said:

Hey, I have a 2016 Silverado 4x4  crew cab and was wondering if I would have any alignment issues.  I'm trying to go with a 3/6 but camber and alignment issues are what is really making me worried. The kit is a maxtrac which comes with 2 inch drop spindles, 1 inch drop spring, and a adjustable flip kit 5 to 6 inches of drop. Do any of you have experience with aligning a dropped 4x4? 

 

Here is the kit: https://maxtracstore.com/2014-2016-chevy-silverado-1500-2wd-4wd-1pc-drive-shaft-3-5-lowering-kit-maxtrac-ks331535/ 

 

Here is a picture of the truck(Note: this truck has been crashed before): 20201006-145839-1.jpg

Did it align properly before the crash? 
 

With a 3” drop, you will be fine. Once you get into 4” in front, alignment concerns are valid. 

Posted
1 hour ago, sharkeysierra said:

Did it align properly before the crash? 
 

With a 3” drop, you will be fine. Once you get into 4” in front, alignment concerns are valid. 

It aligned after the crash with no problems

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,897
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    ncleg
    Newest Member
    ncleg
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1,278 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...