Jump to content

2014+ Lowering / Drop Kits

mjw930

By mjw930
in Modifications & Accessories

 Share

Recommended Posts

666 Enthusiast

666

Posted
Posted
On 1/17/2021 at 4:04 PM, meirikm said:

Mine is dropped like 4” in the rear here and 3” in the front. It rubbed like a mofo so I brought the front up an inch. I used bell tech struts, max traxx springs, shock replicators in the rear and removed the blocks. I also have 2” spacers on it with 24’s. it seems to barely rub on full lock now.  

D93E5728-DB2B-480B-82EC-836AA6609536.jpeg

Do the 6 inch flip kit. It will make it a lot more even

  • Replies 3.4k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Heavy_Static
Heavy_Static

A few pics from last week:    

bakerrr
bakerrr

First post here Picked her about 2 weeks ago couldn't wait to start modifying it. Just installed Belltechs 4/7 drop this weekend It's low enough for the time being ??  

Nasty
Nasty

Posted Images

666 Enthusiast

666

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, 666 said:

Do the 6 inch flip kit. It will make it a lot more even

Also, dropping the front with only strut and springs makes it really difficult to put back in alignment. I recommend getting 2 inch drop spindles and removing the drops springs from the strut. This will make your camber less aggressive.

meirikm Enthusiast

meirikm

Posted
Posted

I need to keep a bit of a rake. I use my truck for work and always carry a little weight. Can u do flip kits on 2017’s? A spring guy told me he can’t 

666 Enthusiast

666

Posted
Posted
37 minutes ago, meirikm said:

I need to keep a bit of a rake. I use my truck for work and always carry a little weight. Can u do flip kits on 2017’s? A spring guy told me he can’t 

Yes you can. That's the only way to go lower than 3 inch in the back. Also. If you did q flip kit you should be fine at 5 inch drop when it comes to towing but and lower will need helper bags.

durtyr30 Enthusiast

durtyr30

Posted
Posted

Quick question... I removed the rear blocks and with my 2" drop shackles I'm even all around (36" ground to mid fender well) but it looks slightly lower in the back. Can I mount the front struts under the control arms to get like .5" lower in the front? Will that effect the ride, alignment, or camber to negatively?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

666 Enthusiast

666

Posted
Posted
29 minutes ago, durtyr30 said:

Quick question... I removed the rear blocks and with my 2" drop shackles I'm even all around (36" ground to mid fender well) but it looks slightly lower in the back. Can I mount the front struts under the control arms to get like .5" lower in the front? Will that effect the ride, alignment, or camber to negatively?

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk
 

Putting the strut under a arm will cause a 2inch front drop and will make your alignment suffer. Why don't you just adjust your hangers from 2 inch drop to 1 inch drop?

 

sharkeysierra Enthusiast

sharkeysierra

Posted
Posted
10 minutes ago, 666 said:

Putting the strut under a arm will cause a 2inch front drop and will make your alignment suffer. Why don't you just adjust your hangers from 2 inch drop to 1 inch drop?

 

Not to mention the hazard of doing this, it just takes one good bump/dip/crack in the road to rip the threads out of the bolt. 

durtyr30 Enthusiast

durtyr30

Posted
Posted
Putting the strut under a arm will cause a 2inch front drop and will make your alignment suffer. Why don't you just adjust your hangers from 2 inch drop to 1 inch drop?
 
Thanks! Yeah, I think I'll just get 2" drop spindles in the front and raise the spring perch up some. I have Bilstein 5100's all around so I can raise the front some. I know, I should've got different shocks n struts if I was going lower, but I wasn't thinking.

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

  • 2 months later...
lucas287 Enthusiast

lucas287

Posted
Posted
On 2/22/2020 at 3:57 PM, Maiden69 said:

They are certainly better as far as that they actually asked you for measurements. I think Ridetech uses Fox's coilovers, as their main thing is Air Suspension. Their HQ's are around $250 each, no spring, but are single adjustable. Their 3 way run at $850 I think each. I have a very nice ride now, better than most cars on the road for sure. But after all the investment in suspension that I have done, plus the 4 link in the rear, that will not cut it. The fact that I am traveling down almost 3-4" hitting on the top of the inner fender metal on a coilover that is supposed to have 5.25" of full travel is not good. I bet once the 850lb/in go in I will see the 2-3" on compression I am suppose to have. That will stop me from bottoming out, at least on the highway. 

 

Ridetechs are very popular on the muscle car scene, mini trucks from the 80's-2000, and HotRods. They have a few systems for fullsize trucks, but nothing for ours at this time. But since I already have the mounts for the Vikings, I can use those to mount their universal fit shocks, or I can reverse engineer them if I need to make them a little wider. 

 

Old post, I know but I ran across it from a google search about Viking coilovers for our trucks. 

How did it work once you got the stiffer coils in?

  • 2 weeks later...
davis86t Enthusiast

davis86t

Posted
Posted

2015 CCSB SLT Z71 6.2L

MaxTrac Adjustable Drop Kit - K34170 from suspensionsuperstore.com

2" Spindles, Adjustable strut, Flip kit, Hanger, Rear shocks

Sits perfectly for me at the 2" drop strut setting with the 2" drop spindles and rear set at 5" holes on the hangers.

Did it all myself -- it can definitely be done without help but need a few beers. 

Rides a little rough for my taste, not much worse than stock. Will be upgrading to Viking coilovers in the front and helper bags in the rear - possibly a 4-link and coilovers for the rear in the future. Also would like to put TMW control arms on it. Can't decide if I want to do more power adders or dial in the suspension first.... 

IMG_2982.JPG

  • Like 3
scandaljoe New Member

scandaljoe

Posted
Posted

Not to get too off topic and I'm new here so I'm sorry if I need to not post this here but I like the way this thread has been handled with other questions...  Does anyone have experience with wheel spacers on a lowered Silverado?  I want to get the proper kind, the Bora's here: https://www.motorsport-tech.com/4DCGI/updateprice_truck

 I love my rims but I would like them to be more flush with the wheelwell for a much better look, but not sure if anyone can think of it posing an issue since they are the good kind of spacers?? I was thinking of getting like 1" or 1.25" spacers, I know that I would probably need to cut the wheel bolts though, but might be worth it. The front is a a little higher now than the picture since I adjusted the coilovers by about an inch to prevent rubbing.  The rear is adjustable as well since I put in airbags.

Thanks for the advice.

DSC_0081.JPG

  • 4 months later...
UofAZCats Enthusiast

UofAZCats

Posted
Posted

Thinking about changing out the struts/springs on my truck.  I have stock for both but they feel too soft.  I want something stiffer.  I lowered the front using a drop spindle and don't want to lower it any further so I am looking for struts/springs that match OEM height.  I thought about Belltech coilovers but those indicate a 1" to 3" drop which I don't want.  Any recommendations?

davis86t Enthusiast

davis86t

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 10/5/2021 at 10:37 PM, UofAZCats said:

Thinking about changing out the struts/springs on my truck.  I have stock for both but they feel too soft.  I want something stiffer.  I lowered the front using a drop spindle and don't want to lower it any further so I am looking for struts/springs that match OEM height.  I thought about Belltech coilovers but those indicate a 1" to 3" drop which I don't want.  Any recommendations?


I think the lowering struts have a stock setting. The MaxTrac struts did anyway… and they seem to be a copy of Belltech. Don’t quote me though, do your own research.

I went with MaxTrac struts and there was a stock height setting. And they seem stiff to me. I can probably find the install manual if you want. 

98A9012C-B234-4E48-8FFF-D5AEA3A838C3.jpeg

Edited by davis86t
Add photo
  • 1 month later...
josney Enthusiast

josney

Posted
Posted

2014 Chevy Silverado std cab, 2 wheel drive 2/4inch drop made by Rough Country and purchased thru American Truck

Sitting on 20's....rides like a champ.

 

siBlackbeauty.thumb.jpg.c66867524cb0fc32b1215fd248f94f3a.jpg

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • davester
      Needing this part.

      By davester · Posted

      I'm sure if you went to a junkyard where you go in and pull the part off the truck yourself, not a used part place where they do it for you, you can get that part on it's own.  Depending on if and what else you would be buying, and time of day, they might even just skip over adding it as a item to the bill.
    • davester
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By davester · Posted

      No, we trade them like pokeman cards.
    • davester
      I have an unused GM Authorization code.

      By davester · Posted

      It would be sold as a "kit", lights + auth/programming code.   You can resell the code to someone else, if they just buy the lights, either new or used, and they can then use the code to get them to work on their truck.
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Apologies in advance, this is a long post, there's a lot to explain.   A friend had a 2010 Avalanche with a 5.3 (LMG) that blew the head gaskets (amount other problems). He gave me a donor motor out of a 2007 suburban (LC9). I got it all installed, and everything hooked up. Went to go start it, and it stumbled a bit at first and died a couple times, but after trying a few times it sounded like it was running very well. Went out to go get some coolant, and came back the next day.    Upon trying to start it, the truck will crank and fire normally and the RPMs will raise to around 1,200 or 1,500, sounding great, and then the RPMs will decrease and it will just die. Repeat that a dozen or two dozen times, and eventually it will fire and idle beautifully. As soon as you touch the throttle, it will start misfiring and sound like absolute trash. When you let off the throttle it will come down and hunt around shaking and misfiring like crazy. A message will come up on the dash saying reduced engine power.    It is throwing codes for a map sensor circuit voltage High, as well as MAF sensor low frequency. With key on engine off, the map sensor reads about 4.8 volts on the vout pin, which the PCM interprets as about 17.8 PSI, contrasted to the barometer which my scan tool tells me reads about 13.5 PSI. However, once the engine starts and is idling this reading drops to about 5-6 PSI at a stable idle, and varies significantly when the engine is misfiring/ hunting like I said before. I should note that I used the intake and MAP sensor from the LC9 engine. I changed the connector on the 2010 harness to The 2007 connector. The pinouts for the sensors were printed right on the top, and I triple-checked that I put the correct wire into the correct place.   On the other hand, the MAF sensor reads consistently 0.0 g/s regardless of State. I have pulled my hair out trying to figure out this last detail. I have tried three different sensors, (all of which should be good, one of which was new), I have verified all the wiring from the sensor going back to the PCM, and have verified that the readings at the PCM are the same readings as at the sensor itself. The intake air temperature sensor is also functioning as normal. I verified all the voltages and grounds etc, and everything is as it should be. I don't have an oscilloscope to verify, but I probed with my multimeter (Klein mm720) on frequency Mode, and it reads that on initial cranking, the maf is producing between 3000 and 7000 HZ, and as soon as the engine fires that falls off to below, 1000, and if the engine continues to run, it will produce somewhat erratic readings between 5 and 100-200 HZ. It does increase notably when the engine is revved despite the misfirings. As I said before, I have verified all of the wires going to the PCM, and I have tried multiple known good sensors. I've tested all the pins and voltages from the sensor and verified them against the manual that they are what they should be. I tested all the wiring for both ohms and voltage drop, and everything tested fine. Like I said I tested at the sensor as well as right at the PCM, everything checked out.   The only other thing of note at least I think is the fact that the engine originally in the truck had VVT, but the engine I put in, the lc9, does not have VVT. I modified the cam sensor plug to work. I reference the wiring diagrams and double-checked that I modified the harness correctly to adapt it. There is obviously a code for the VVT solenoid, but I don't think that's the cause of my problems, and this friend will probably have the PCM sent off to tune out the codes at some point.   I'm writing this for my bed so I don't recall the exact codes, but I'll update the post tomorrow morning with the exact codes. And ideas or feedback much appreciated. 
    • Atlas
      Tire psi

      By Atlas · Posted

      It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...