What have you done to your K2 today?

[slide187]

Agreed. It probly wouldn’t be an issue w/o a spare there, but with, I’m guessing that’s why they angle the bar down. On mine there was plenty of clearance with a spare.


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[300 Blackout]

2. Not to mansplain it (haha) but a sway bar tries to overcome body roll by lifting the inside wheel (opposite the body lean) to bring the body back to “level”. Which by definition means one wheel is actually less planted, not more, and subsequently there is less traction to the wheel being “lifted,” which also creates more potential for wheel hop during when starting off in a turn.

Love the discussion. Don’t want to clog this thread too much. I thought this link was a good read about sway bars, how they work and what type of handling differences you’re likely to experience depending on your overall setup. Like everything else, there’s always compromises and the key is choosing the system that works best for you.

I think the RAS system is really interesting too, thanks for sharing your experience. I had never heard of it before you posted about it.

http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/

“Using anti-sway bars to reduce body roll, to maximize contact patch consistency of all four tires, and to adjust handling balance front-to-rear continues to be one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to help you and your car carve faster corners. You won’t see as much of an improvement from upgrading sway bars as you would from an upgrade that includes adjustable shocks and stiffer springs, but if maintaining civilized street manners while giving your ride improved handling characteristics for under $500 is your goal, you simply can’t beat a high-quality pair of adjustable anti-sway bars from a company with years of experience in the suspension tuning department like Eibach, Whiteline or KW.”

[STRMTRPR]

.. color matched shark fin

 

[slide187]

Love the discussion. Don’t want to clog this thread too much. I thought this link was a good read about sway bars, how they work and what type of handling differences you’re likely to experience depending on your overall setup. Like everything else, there’s always compromises and the key is choosing the system that works best for you.

 

I think the RAS system is really interesting too, thanks for sharing your experience. I had never heard of it before you posted about it.

 

http://speed.academy/how-swaybars-work/

 

“Using anti-sway bars to reduce body roll, to maximize contact patch consistency of all four tires, and to adjust handling balance front-to-rear continues to be one of the simplest and most cost-effective ways to help you and your car carve faster corners. You won’t see as much of an improvement from upgrading sway bars as you would from an upgrade that includes adjustable shocks and stiffer springs, but if maintaining civilized street manners while giving your ride improved handling characteristics for under $500 is your goal, you simply can’t beat a high-quality pair of adjustable anti-sway bars from a company with years of experience in the suspension tuning department like Eibach, Whiteline or KW.”

Agreed. It’s why I come to these forums. I think I know what I know, but there’s usually someone with a different perspective or technique and I usually learn something. Hahaha. And yes a lot of this is personal opinion. I’ll check that link out. Thx! And when I get the RAS I’ll post the install, so you guys can see it. Rock on, Holmes. [emoji1598]

 

Edit: Hahahah dude. That article had me at the general lee!!!

 

 

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[300 Blackout]

Applied Cerakote Trim Coat (Gloss) to all my exterior plastic trim. So far it seems to be good stuff. It doesn’t look greasy at all once it dries.

The directions say don’t get it on your paint or glass. I did. It doesn’t damage either of them but it’s an absolute b*ch to remove it. I had to use a razor’s edge on my glass and I haven’t tried to get it off the paint yet. Lacquer thinner doesn’t dissolve it nor does acetone. I haven’t tried anything else.

Also avoid your chrome and backup camera lens. When it dries it looks hazy on these parts but on the plastic where it’s intended to be used, it deepens the dark color.

[Snowcamo]

1 hour ago, 300 Blackout said:

Applied Cerakote Trim Coat (Gloss) to all my exterior plastic trim. So far it seems to be good stuff. It doesn’t look greasy at all once it dries.

The directions say don’t get it on your paint or glass. I did. It doesn’t damage either of them but it’s an absolute b*ch to remove it. I had to use a razor’s edge on my glass and I haven’t tried to get it off the paint yet. Lacquer thinner doesn’t dissolve it nor does acetone. I haven’t tried anything else.

Also avoid your chrome and backup camera lens. When it dries it looks hazy on these parts but on the plastic where it’s intended to be used, it deepens the dark color.

Please note how long it last and if the plastic parts fade after use.

I use wipe new once. It has a stripping agent of some sort. It does seem to fade the cowl area and leave the rest same as before.

[Waterfowler41]

100k miles out of my rear brakes, upgraded to Raybestos EHT pads and RPT rotors. Have them up front so easy decision in the rear.




Waterfowler 41’s Youtube channel: https://www.youtube.com/user/brittmork

[slide187]

So these showed up. [emoji51][emoji51] putting them on Sunday [emoji1360]


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[Roscopcoletrain]

Fancy! 

[All Terrain]

2 hours ago, slide187 said:

So these showed up. putting them on Sunday


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Very interested in your follow up posts.

[slide187]

It’s a super easy install, this time around imma do a video and I’ll post a link.


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[STRMTRPR]

.. installed a set of Timbrens to help when towing the camper

[Roscopcoletrain]

2 hours ago, slide187 said:

It’s a super easy install, this time around imma do a video and I’ll post a link.


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let us know how much it raises the rear. Ive seen a few mention that. 

 

I was leaning towards airbags, or a sway bar..this sorta has the best of both in a way, and more. Only issue is price and availability in Canada. 

[slide187]

Will do. I don’t remember them raising the rear at all on the Tundra, all they did was prevent squat when towing or hauling. So like the diff between having my ATV in the truck with and without these was it sat down less than an inch with, versus more than 2” without.

But I’ll take measurements with and without, and I’ll see if I can get the ATV up into this bed, but idk. If not I’ll just put it on the trailer and hook up and see that way.

Basically these will prevent/reduce the rear squat with a load and inherently keep the nose down under the same conditions thereby increasing handling. But yes they act like a sway bar, traction bar, spring helpers all in one.


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[Roscopcoletrain]

11 minutes ago, slide187 said:

Will do. I don’t remember them raising the rear at all on the Tundra, all they did was prevent squat when towing or hauling. So like the diff between having my ATV in the truck with and without these was it sat down less than an inch with, versus more than 2” without.

But I’ll take measurements with and without, and I’ll see if I can get the ATV up into this bed, but idk. If not I’ll just put it on the trailer and hook up and see that way.

Basically these will prevent/reduce the rear squat with a load and inherently keep the nose down under the same conditions thereby increasing handling. But yes they act like a sway bar, traction bar, spring helpers all in one.


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I think i watched a couple installs on F150s, they said it raised them maybe an 1-1.5" or so in the rear. Nothing huge, but worth nothing. 

 

I want to get something to help a bit with some pogoing on the highway when towing the TT.