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What have you done to your K2 today?


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10 hours ago, doubeleive said:

I bought all the required adapters and it was only $160.00 a Alpine 7" with android auto/carplay is only $300

 

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@doubeleive Thanks for the extra details.  Pricing on that Maestro stuff is about $150-200.  Any radio that I will be interested in is going to be $350+.  Add in some labor and we are looking at about $850+ because the sub dash has to get cut up in order to fit a new head unit, and this also means it can never go back to stock.   

 

I used to be a player in the local car audio scene a number of years ago.  I know what will happen if I replace the head unit; next is components; then subs and amps.  Then I am going to find some new thing that is louder and by the end of the day I will have spent 5k in audio equipment for my family's overgrown grocery getter.

 

On a positive I did call up a local audio shop and after having a chat with the owner I learned that I should be able to just swap the factory screen with another one and not have to get the dealer to do anything.  Sounds like the radio module tucked behind the glove box is the only piece of this puzzle that could be vin locked.  Now to see what I can find on the cheap.

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1 minute ago, XtremeSPL said:

@doubeleive Thanks for the extra details.  Pricing on that Maestro stuff is about $150-200.  Any radio that I will be interested in is going to be $350+.  Add in some labor and we are looking at about $850+ because the sub dash has to get cut up in order to fit a new head unit, and this also means it can never go back to stock.   

 

I used to be a player in the local car audio scene a number of years ago.  I know what will happen if I replace the head unit; next is components; then subs and amps.  Then I am going to find some new thing that is louder and by the end of the day I will have spent 5k in audio equipment for my family's overgrown grocery getter.

 

On a positive I did call up a local audio shop and after having a chat with the owner I learned that I should be able to just swap the factory screen with another one and not have to get the dealer to do anything.  Sounds like the radio module tucked behind the glove box is the only piece of this puzzle that could be vin locked.  Now to see what I can find on the cheap.

yep, it's like getting a tattoo... lol I already knew this thing would need a complete audio upgrade the first time I heard the radio, not impressed with the stock system, I don't have 5k laying around to just blow on audio all at once so I have just been piecing the parts together little by little, then i bought the wife a suburban and she want's a system so this one has been on hold

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2 minutes ago, doubeleive said:

yep, it's like getting a tattoo... lol I already knew this thing would need a complete audio upgrade the first time I heard the radio, not impressed with the stock system, I don't have 5k laying around to just blow on audio all at once so I have just been piecing the parts together little by little, then i bought the wife a suburban and she want's a system so this one has been on hold

Don't get me wrong.  I really want to just rip out all of the factory audio equipment and put in some really good stuff but this truck was supposed to be just a run of the mill truck that would hopefully last me 10 years with minimum repairs.  At the moment I kinda wish I would have bought a F-150.  Truck just turned 3 at the end of July and has just crossed over 43k miles.  So far I have had the brake issue(recall), replace the center console lid due to sharp edges(warranty), plastic skid plate fell off after the bolts loosened and fell out(warranty), bad starter around 28k miles(warranty), Failed AC condenser at 40k miles ($1300 repair, my truck has the expensive refrigerant), battery failed at 40k miles (not a big deal but still it only had 40k miles), now a faulty touchscreen, maybe a faulty clock spring, and I am sure that I have forgotten a couple of things.

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1 hour ago, XtremeSPL said:

Don't get me wrong.  I really want to just rip out all of the factory audio equipment and put in some really good stuff but this truck was supposed to be just a run of the mill truck that would hopefully last me 10 years with minimum repairs.  At the moment I kinda wish I would have bought a F-150.  Truck just turned 3 at the end of July and has just crossed over 43k miles.  So far I have had the brake issue(recall), replace the center console lid due to sharp edges(warranty), plastic skid plate fell off after the bolts loosened and fell out(warranty), bad starter around 28k miles(warranty), Failed AC condenser at 40k miles ($1300 repair, my truck has the expensive refrigerant), battery failed at 40k miles (not a big deal but still it only had 40k miles), now a faulty touchscreen, maybe a faulty clock spring, and I am sure that I have forgotten a couple of things.

mine is a 18 I am just about to roll into 30k miles, I put in a AGM battery and sold the delco for $45, I upgraded my skid plates to the metal ones, I just did the brakes about 3 weeks ago oem pads never last me 6 months anyway so I always upgrade to ceramic, the starter is the 1.4kw I will upgrade that to the 1.7 sooner or later there $158 on rockauto, the starter sounds "weak" to me it works fine but since there is a more powerful one I will put it in, I put a 220amp alternator on it from a 3500, no problems with the ac so far other than the fan stops randomly and then turns back on and the radio does a weird thing where the audio cuts off and then comes back on at the startup volume, and my ipod will randomly stop playing at the end of a song instead of continuing on to the next song so i have too hit the skip button or hit play again even though the screen will show it playing it's not. I am thinking those things are a loose connection because it normally only does it when I first take off down the road or more often when it is cold outside. I bought a 6yr 60k bumper to bumper warranty with it so I shouldn't have to worry much for a good while, for 2k worked into the loan I just take it as a pre-paid repair lol.

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Finally got my tunes back from BBP. What a night and day difference over stock. Throttle response is amazing and the shifting patterns are so much smoother. Barely tapping the gas pedal and this thing wants to GO! It moves through the gears quicker and doesn't rev up to high RPMs searching for gears. Downshifting is much smoother and I don't seem to feel it slamming from 3rd to 1st on deceleration to a stop. I'm amazed and wish I had pulled the trigger on this much sooner. It could be in my head but I'm pretty sure my trans is running cooler. I have been averaging 190°-193° and only saw it get up to 180°, but it was a cooler morning so I'll have to see how it is over the next few days. Although I did just get back from a 5 day trip through Hocking Hills OH and all the rolling hills and nose diving hill crests, tight turns going from 55mph down to 25mp and then back up to 55mph up and down some pretty steep hills my trans temp still held well at 190°. Hopefully it is running cooler with the tune but will definitely be doing some t-stat changes and "flipping the pill", although will have to do some research on that and do that when I drop my pan to switch to Amsoil.

 

Odd note but my speedometer is now way off. It was about 1mph off before the tune and is now 5-8mph slower on actual GPS speed depending on speed driven. I sent them an email asking how to fix this as my last tuner on my last vehicle I could fix this myself but don't think the AutoCal V3 has the capability to do it on end-user side. I probably forgot to mention I'm running 3.42s so it's probably just a quick fix. Compared truck DIC speed to actual GPS speed on both my Waze GPS and my dash cam GPS.

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Replaced my body color door handles with the chrome ones. Getting the first one on took as long as getting the other 3 on. Take my advice: don't bother with the tricks, just take the door panel off and hit the spring from the back. Full details in my build thread: https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/239297-turtl3ups-2018-silverado/?tab=comments#comment-2444632.

 

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21 hours ago, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

Finally got my tunes back from BBP. What a night and day difference over stock. Throttle response is amazing and the shifting patterns are so much smoother. Barely tapping the gas pedal and this thing wants to GO! It moves through the gears quicker and doesn't rev up to high RPMs searching for gears. Downshifting is much smoother and I don't seem to feel it slamming from 3rd to 1st on deceleration to a stop. I'm amazed and wish I had pulled the trigger on this much sooner. It could be in my head but I'm pretty sure my trans is running cooler. I have been averaging 190°-193° and only saw it get up to 180°, but it was a cooler morning so I'll have to see how it is over the next few days. Although I did just get back from a 5 day trip through Hocking Hills OH and all the rolling hills and nose diving hill crests, tight turns going from 55mph down to 25mp and then back up to 55mph up and down some pretty steep hills my trans temp still held well at 190°. Hopefully it is running cooler with the tune but will definitely be doing some t-stat changes and "flipping the pill", although will have to do some research on that and do that when I drop my pan to switch to Amsoil.

 

Odd note but my speedometer is now way off. It was about 1mph off before the tune and is now 5-8mph slower on actual GPS speed depending on speed driven. I sent them an email asking how to fix this as my last tuner on my last vehicle I could fix this myself but don't think the AutoCal V3 has the capability to do it on end-user side. I probably forgot to mention I'm running 3.42s so it's probably just a quick fix. Compared truck DIC speed to actual GPS speed on both my Waze GPS and my dash cam GPS.

i assume this is for the 6 speed right? 

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double post but...whatever

 

installed the gibson cat back last night. 

i got the dual side exit behind rear tire. 

fitment was solid but i think i have to tweak a bit as the front pipe is melting the plastic guard below the bedside.

one thing that was annoyning is that they didnt give a new front clamp to go over the flared end. 

luckily my buddys stainless works exhaust came with 2 so he gave me the extra. 

 

it sounds awesome for a daily driver. 

can barely hear it on the highway. 

No drone form v4 mode whatsoever and it sounds quite loud under heavy accel 

 

really happy for the 550 or whatever it cost. 

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1 hour ago, Ray Capobianco said:

i assume this is for the 6 speed right? 

Yes sir.

1 hour ago, Ray Capobianco said:

double post but...whatever

 

installed the gibson cat back last night. 

i got the dual side exit behind rear tire. 

fitment was solid but i think i have to tweak a bit as the front pipe is melting the plastic guard below the bedside.

one thing that was annoyning is that they didnt give a new front clamp to go over the flared end. 

luckily my buddys stainless works exhaust came with 2 so he gave me the extra. 

 

it sounds awesome for a daily driver. 

can barely hear it on the highway. 

No drone form v4 mode whatsoever and it sounds quite loud under heavy accel 

 

really happy for the 550 or whatever it cost. 

I had the same problem with my Borla exhaust. The front pipe melted the plastic guard below the bedside on my truck too. Not glad to hear it but glad to hear it wasn't something I did wrong and that I'm not the only one having that issue. My exhaust seemed to have settled in though and now I have a clearance gap between the front pipe and what would have been the plastic guard. I check it out of habit and for a while was putting my foot on it and pushing down to stretch it away from the plastic guard. Now I have been checking it and it has stayed well below where the untouched plastic guard would have been. I'm satisfied.

 

Also, same problem with the clamp too. Borla's instructions did say to "retain the factory exhaust clamp" but mine was rusted solid and tried using some penetrant to slowly get the clamp bolt out.....broke off right at the head.....great. Ended up getting a sawzall and cut the clamp off. Went to Autozone to get a clamp, universal wide band u-bolt clamp, that worked for about a day and then it came apart. Scratch that, went to the stealership and got an OEM clamp for $35 since it had the curvature to go over both flared ends of the exhaust. Tightened up solid and now has been holding great. My only other gripe is that the hanger mount closest to the passenger, the rod to push into the grommet was WAAAAAAY too long, sticks out about 4" instead of resting right in the grommet. Spent like an hour unbolting and rebolting in different twist configurations trying to figure it out and ended up saying f-it and bolted it down as-is.

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On 8/4/2020 at 10:24 PM, XtremeSPL said:

@Eddie 70 Thanks.  I should have reseated everything at the radio module the other day but I didn't pull that section of dash apart.  Will be giving this a shot in the morning.  Fingers crossed.

I'd be interested to know if it worked for you when get around to doing it.

 

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10 hours ago, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

Yes sir.

I had the same problem with my Borla exhaust. The front pipe melted the plastic guard below the bedside on my truck too. Not glad to hear it but glad to hear it wasn't something I did wrong and that I'm not the only one having that issue. My exhaust seemed to have settled in though and now I have a clearance gap between the front pipe and what would have been the plastic guard. I check it out of habit and for a while was putting my foot on it and pushing down to stretch it away from the plastic guard. Now I have been checking it and it has stayed well below where the untouched plastic guard would have been. I'm satisfied.

 

Also, same problem with the clamp too. Borla's instructions did say to "retain the factory exhaust clamp" but mine was rusted solid and tried using some penetrant to slowly get the clamp bolt out.....broke off right at the head.....great. Ended up getting a sawzall and cut the clamp off. Went to Autozone to get a clamp, universal wide band u-bolt clamp, that worked for about a day and then it came apart. Scratch that, went to the stealership and got an OEM clamp for $35 since it had the curvature to go over both flared ends of the exhaust. Tightened up solid and now has been holding great. My only other gripe is that the hanger mount closest to the passenger, the rod to push into the grommet was WAAAAAAY too long, sticks out about 4" instead of resting right in the grommet. Spent like an hour unbolting and rebolting in different twist configurations trying to figure it out and ended up saying f-it and bolted it down as-is.

 

Ah bummer I’ve got the 8 speed. Maybe someday it will have a solution. 
 

and seems like we’re in the same boat with the exhaust lol. I don’t mind where it sits now. Looks better imo tucked up like that. 

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On 8/6/2020 at 9:21 AM, xSHIFTxNASTYx said:

Finally got my tunes back from BBP. What a night and day difference over stock. Throttle response is amazing and the shifting patterns are so much smoother. Barely tapping the gas pedal and this thing wants to GO! It moves through the gears quicker and doesn't rev up to high RPMs searching for gears. Downshifting is much smoother and I don't seem to feel it slamming from 3rd to 1st on deceleration to a stop. I'm amazed and wish I had pulled the trigger on this much sooner. It could be in my head but I'm pretty sure my trans is running cooler. I have been averaging 190°-193° and only saw it get up to 180°, but it was a cooler morning so I'll have to see how it is over the next few days. Although I did just get back from a 5 day trip through Hocking Hills OH and all the rolling hills and nose diving hill crests, tight turns going from 55mph down to 25mp and then back up to 55mph up and down some pretty steep hills my trans temp still held well at 190°. Hopefully it is running cooler with the tune but will definitely be doing some t-stat changes and "flipping the pill", although will have to do some research on that and do that when I drop my pan to switch to Amsoil.

 

Odd note but my speedometer is now way off. It was about 1mph off before the tune and is now 5-8mph slower on actual GPS speed depending on speed driven. I sent them an email asking how to fix this as my last tuner on my last vehicle I could fix this myself but don't think the AutoCal V3 has the capability to do it on end-user side. I probably forgot to mention I'm running 3.42s so it's probably just a quick fix. Compared truck DIC speed to actual GPS speed on both my Waze GPS and my dash cam GPS.

Nice to know everything worked out well. Now Im excited, Ive gotta get my logs together still and send em off. Sounds like everything Ive been looking for! 

Edited by IronVilkas
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23 minutes ago, IronVilkas said:

Nice to know everything worked out well. Now Im excited, Ive gotta get my logs together still and send em off. Sounds like everything Ive been looking for! 

night & day difference!

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