Dash speakers

[o7bodybagged]

Do any of the 2014 silverados have dash speakers??????

[MotoMedic]

Yes, in the corners of the dash closest to windshield.

 

Edited March 30, 2014 by MotoMedic

[o7bodybagged]

Well I took the cover off and it's empty any idea what size goes in there

[chuckl1218]

I have a 2014 Silverado LTZ Double Cab with Bose Navigation and sub in the console. It looks just like the picture above, but I have no clue of the sizes of the speakers.

[NitroDatsik]

I have a 2014 silverado crew cab 2WT and I haven't opened that part but I do hear sound coming out of there.

 

Wicked Galaxy Note 3

 

 

[Impala_98]

It's a 3" speaker in there I replaced mine with a pair of 3 1/2s but it took some trimming and to get them to fit

[GRN69CHV]

Dash speaker is an odd size, about 2-3/4". I looked into putting 3-1/2" full range speakers in the dash, would require opening the hole to make them fit. You'd want to get a separate bass blocker, capacitor provided with the factory speaker is integral to the speaker. There are 2.75" speakers available. Know nothing about this product line, company called Powerbass has a S-275 2-3/4" dash replacement speaker listed for Chryslers. I will be looking into replacing my dash speakers further in the near future.

[GRN69CHV]

Bringing this back to the top, call it "Dash Speakers Part II". Speakers in my '15 DC have started to crackle a little. To be fair, they are amplified and I did tend to listen to it a little bit on the loud side when the weather was nice and the windows were down. Had the truck little over 10 months and just odometer just turned 20k. I mentioned Powerbass S-275 in the reply above from back in May as a possibility.

 

Has anyone found a reasonably easy speaker to swap in?

[Gabe63]

Does anyone know how to remove the grill to get the dash speaker out, obviously without causing any damage? Thank you

[07Softail]

I think i read that the pillars have to be removed first to get the grilles out.

 

RT

[shiro]

I've been slowly doing my own system upgade and taking pictures along the way. I hope to creat a nice build list once I am finished. But to answer your question(s)... I know for the bose setup these are the speakers sizes:

 

Front Dash: 2.5" @ 3.2ohms (with bracket is about 2 3/4")

Front Door: 6x9" woofer @ 2ohms (bose)

Back Door: 5.25" spearker @ 3.5ohms (bose)

Subwoofer: 5.25" @ 1ohm (bose with bucket seats)

 

To remove the dash speakers you will need to remove the pillar covers/trim first on both sized. The passenger side will have two bolts for the "oh sh1t" handle. Then you can pry up the speaker grill. It is one piece going from both sides (connecting both speaker grills). Be sure to be mindful of the sensor for your automatic lights. the cable is short and if you forget you can break the connector for the wires.

[07Softail]

Good tip there.

 

RT

[RobZ71LM7]

Is the dash speaker basically a tweeter? I'm wondering about doing front door component speakers and just routing the tweeter into the dash. Thoughts?

[Strykers_Inc]

Is the dash speaker basically a tweeter? I'm wondering about doing front door component speakers and just routing the tweeter into the dash. Thoughts?

 

With the Bose setup, the dash speakers are acting as midranges and tweeters. The frequency range of the signal is different then that of the door speakers in that the door speakers are providing some of the lows and midrange, but the high frequencies are cutoff. Hope that makes sense.

 

Here are some pictures of an RTA reading of each of the three signals.

 

Dash Signal

 

Door Signal

 

Sub Signal

 

 

I am currently using a Mosconi 6to8V8 for my digital processing. I changed from the Audison Bit One simply for the ease of use and the controller. The really cool thing I have found with my processor is the fact I can sum the channels how I want. Realizing that the Bluetooth output and chimes are only on the left front dash speaker, I limit the use of that signal to exactly that of highs and am cautious to sum that channel to the other speakers in the system. Since my three way setups are mainly on the dash area, I keep that signal contained there and do not allow it to be passed to the doors or sub which will happen if you sum all channels using something like an Audiocontrol or like processor.

 

That being said, in my system, the dash speakers get the dash signal, the doors get the door signal, and the sub gets a mixture of the door and sub signal. At least that's the way I have it now. Still tuning, as the system is not yet completed. Progress can be seen on my build linked below.

 

I hope that helps.

Edited November 15, 2015 by Strykers_Inc

[GRN69CHV]

Dash and front door speakers are fed from the same wiring off the head unit ( at least on the non-Bose systems). These speakers get the full frequency range with the dash speaker getting a low frequency cut via a capacitor (what I would assume is at 500hz, 6db roll-off). Higher frequencies in the door speakers just roll off due to speaker design. When I added the amplifier, running the front speakers with 80hz, 12db high pass filter really cleaned them up. Removing that amount of bass tightened up the mid bass a lot and cleaned up the midrange. Pair of 8" subs added to the rear doors filled in the bottom end nicely. Playing with crossover points makes all the difference. Could be wrong but I don't think the non-Bose dash speakers have the same high end response as the dash speakers in the Bose system. I did have a loner with the factory Bose in it, I do believe it had better high end. Might be worth the swap to pick up a set of factory dash speakers from the Bose system for comparison. 3.2ohms at the dash would not be the best for standard head unit, but would work with an aftermarket amp that is stable to 2 ohms.