Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

Looks good. I've got a set of chrome Dub Skillz off my 2016 Tahoe just sitting in the garage. I wondered how the Skillz would look on a truck. I like it. I almost mounted mine on some beefy tires but went another direction. Still tempting though. Nice truck!

Thanks

Dub Skillz were some of the only wheels I liked, wasn't sure how they would look with a 305/40 but they ended up looking good [emoji1417]

Posted (edited)

IMG_5633_zpszeysxwqg.jpg

 

20x10 Hostile Sprocket, -19 offset with Toyo Open Country 33X12.50R20LT rubber. Slight rubbing on full lock on the driver side but not bad. The truck was already leveled when I bought it so I'm not sure the brand, etc but it was sitting pretty high.

 

Thanks to Bigfoot16 for all the help on the offset, etc. I basically copied his setup (haha)

Edited by ATLAllTerrain
  • Like 5
Posted

Thanks

Dub Skillz were some of the only wheels I liked, wasn't sure how they would look with a 305/40 but they ended up looking good [emoji1417]

 

Just enough tire, they look real good.

Posted (edited)

IMG_5633_zpszeysxwqg.jpg

 

20x10 Hostile Sprocket, -19 offset with Toyo Open Country 33X12.50R20LT rubber. Slight rubbing on full lock on the driver side but not bad. The truck was already leveled when I bought it so I'm not sure the brand, etc but it was sitting pretty high.

 

Thanks to Bigfoot16 for all the help on the offset, etc. I basically copied his setup (haha)

That sits really good ! Edited by cid.yamaha
  • Like 1
Posted

I would like to get bigger and more agressive tires on my 2014 GMC Sierra slt. I have a 2.25 inch lift in the front and a 1 inch lift in the back. I have the stock 20x9 chrome rims and I would like to get the biggest tires I can get without rubbing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Replies would be much appreciated, thanks everyone

  • Like 1
Posted

I would like to get bigger and more agressive tires on my 2014 GMC Sierra slt. I have a 2.25 inch lift in the front and a 1 inch lift in the back. I have the stock 20x9 chrome rims and I would like to get the biggest tires I can get without rubbing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Replies would be much appreciated, thanks everyone

 

Don't think you're gonna get much help with this as your first post. Your answer is in the 169 pages before this one. I recommend you start from page 1 and work your way forward....there are many options.

Posted

I would like to get bigger and more agressive tires on my 2014 GMC Sierra slt. I have a 2.25 inch lift in the front and a 1 inch lift in the back. I have the stock 20x9 chrome rims and I would like to get the biggest tires I can get without rubbing. Does anyone have any suggestions? Replies would be much appreciated, thanks everyone

As stated, there's a whole lot of information and pictures in this thread. Take your time and look around, like many of us have done. Here's the short answer.....295/55/20 will be a safe bet, and should fit without any trouble at all. Lots of guys running those. 33x12.50x20, 305/55/20, or 275/65/20 will be the limit. The 33's or 305's will be wider than the 275's, but the 275's will be taller. The 305's might rub your sway bar at full lock. The 275's might rub your wheel liner. Or, either size might clear just fine. It will depend on the exact tire and your particular truck. Some guys clear them, and others rub a little bit. If you're willing to trim, then you can run a 285/65/20 or 295/60/20.

Posted (edited)

e73ab11c133425d1b6f45a736af38928.jpg

 

3.5" lift with upper control arms. I left rear block untouched. Cooper Zeon 285/50/20

Fuel Turbo wheels 20x10 -18 offset

Looks a little taller up front cause it's on uneven ground. The ride is very smooth.

Edited by Smoothyrogers
Posted

[emoji85]

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

IMG_5633_zpszeysxwqg.jpg

 

20x10 Hostile Sprocket, -19 offset with Toyo Open Country 33X12.50R20LT rubber. Slight rubbing on full lock on the driver side but not bad. The truck was already leveled when I bought it so I'm not sure the brand, etc but it was sitting pretty high.

 

Thanks to Bigfoot16 for all the help on the offset, etc. I basically copied his setup (haha)

 

That might be one of the nicest setups I've seen so far! Looks sick

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,902
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Newest Member
    whenindoubtuseahammer
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 273 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...