Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I got my stickers from Ebay for about $12. If they arent GM parts you cannot tell. They looked identical to my old stickers. Love them!

Sweet! Thanks for the reply. They look great!

Posted (edited)

Ya you're more then right. I just hate guys like him that try to put people down. I hate seeing the names street queen, pavement princess, mall crawler. I off road but I don't put people down that don't. I'm also not the best I still have to use my locking diffs.

Street Queen is not a put down it's a short way of saying that a lot of people on this forum will not take their vehicle in any off-angle off-road situations, even if it's minor. They are sticking spacers in their trucks to get 2" of lift and then putting the absolute biggest tire they can stuff under there and calling it "minor rubbing". That can mislead those of us that want bigger tires, but also want our suspensions to be able to flex when needed without damaging sheet metal or slicing tires.

 

I've got 32x10 Nittos and in regular ditch crossings and other mild off-road angles, my tires come damn close to touching many parts of the inner fender. I know, because I will stop and get out and look. What I was advising CORNCOB on was that a 295/70r18 tire doesn't "fit" on a leveled truck just because you can trim some plastic or felt and not have it rub on the pavement. You could seriously crunch some fender metal if you are in an off-road situation. At work, there is a guy with 7" lift and 35s with -12 offset or more and fender flares on a 2015 Silvy. He crunched the bottom of his fender flare on a full-lock turn when he hit a bump doing a U-turn....on the pavement.

 

I've been stuck at the edges of dark with the mosquitoes buzzing and the last thing you want to worry about when you are clawing your way out of bad situation is "will this mess up my sheet metal". You want to hit the throttle hard in forward and reverse and have full range of lock-to-lock steering.

 

That's the advise I offer to CORNCOB and anyone else that will read this. Put whatever tires you want on your rig but at least be knowledgeable of the limitations when you overstuff. Look at the truck above this post running the 285/75r18s on stockers. Great looking truck, but there can't be much if any clearance at full lock on the street...something is going to hit in an off-angle situation.

 

BTW, I love the look of a lifted truck with big tires and lots of offset....just don't want to own one. Doesn't work for what I need a truck for.

Edited by bcbz71
  • Like 3
Posted

Finally had my bigger tires put on....

Details?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Street Queen is not a put down it's a short way of saying that a lot of people on this forum will not take their vehicle in any off-angle off-road situations, even if it's minor. They are sticking spacers in their trucks to get 2" of lift and then putting the absolute biggest tire they can stuff under there and calling it "minor rubbing". That can mislead those of us that want bigger tires, but also want our suspensions to be able to flex when needed without damaging sheet metal or slicing tires.

 

I've got 32x10 Nittos and in regular ditch crossings and other mild off-road angles, my tires come damn close to touching many parts of the inner fender. I know, because I will stop and get out and look. What I was advising CORNCOB on was that a 295/70r18 tire doesn't "fit" on a leveled truck just because you can trim some plastic or felt and not have it rub on the pavement. You could seriously crunch some fender metal if you are in an off-road situation. At work, there is a guy with 7" lift and 35s with -12 offset or more and fender flares on a 2015 Silvy. He crunched the bottom of his fender flare on a full-lock turn when he hit a bump doing a U-turn....on the pavement.

 

I've been stuck at the edges of dark with the mosquitoes buzzing and the last thing you want to worry about when you are clawing your way out of bad situation is "will this mess up my sheet metal". You want to hit the throttle hard in forward and reverse and have full range of lock-to-lock steering.

 

That's the advise I offer to CORNCOB and anyone else that will read this. Put whatever tires you want on your rig but at least be knowledgeable of the limitations when you overstuff. Look at the truck above this post running the 285/75r18s on stockers. Great looking truck, but there can't be much if any clearance at full lock on the street...something is going to hit in an off-angle situation.

 

BTW, I love the look of a lifted truck with big tires and lots of offset....just don't want to own one. Doesn't work for what I need a truck for.

I have 35x12.5's on -12 wheels with a 1.5" body lift and a 2.5" level kit and I went mudding this weekend. I did finally get them to rub my fender liners a tiny bit. doesn't hurt anything

Posted (edited)

Got my wheels and tires on. Very happy with the outcome! :D :D

 

fyLlynOl.jpg

 

44mhyAjl.jpg

 

AmyeL0Ol.jpg

Bilstein 5100s on max setting.

Vrock Recoil 18x9.5 (+15)

275/70/18 Nitto Ridge Grapplers

The truck now sits at 38.75" in the front and 39.75" in the back. I just got the tires on this week so I don't have a real estimate to my mpg hit.

There's a few more pics in my build thread.

Edited by tootall87
  • Like 6
Posted

Finally had my bigger tires put on....

Have any other pics? Just want to see the width of the tires and how the stance looks with the 10.8" wide tire...

Posted

Looking for some help, thinking about going down to 17s for a better ride offroad and on, was thinking about 295/70/17s or 285/75/17s or 285/70/70s from 34/12s. do the guys with 285/70/17s think they looks small on a 2.5 leveled truck? they barely measure 33in according to spec but anyone have real world measurements. my trail grapplers were smaller than than what they spec by about half an inch. would like to get a lighter tire like toyo RT or Ridge grappler Terra grappler Falken AT

Posted (edited)

Looking for some help, thinking about going down to 17s for a better ride offroad and on, was thinking about 295/70/17s or 285/75/17s or 285/70/70s from 34/12s. do the guys with 285/70/17s think they looks small on a 2.5 leveled truck? they barely measure 33in according to spec but anyone have real world measurements. my trail grapplers were smaller than than what they spec by about half an inch. would like to get a lighter tire like toyo RT or Ridge grappler Terra grappler Falken AT

I had a 2inch front level and now bilstein 1.85 and have 285/70/17. Don't think the look too small. My pics are a few pages back post 4018, not apples to apples but should be close comparison.

 

 

0Ds895O.jpg

Edited by jrob56
  • Like 3
Posted

they look great on your truck. do they actually measure a true 33 though??

I had a 2inch front level and now bilstein 1.85 and have 285/70/17. Don't think the look too small. My pics are a few pages back post 4018, not apples to apples but should be close comparison.


0Ds895O.jpg

Posted

Looking for some help, thinking about going down to 17s for a better ride offroad and on, was thinking about 295/70/17s or 285/75/17s or 285/70/70s from 34/12s. do the guys with 285/70/17s think they looks small on a 2.5 leveled truck? they barely measure 33in according to spec but anyone have real world measurements. my trail grapplers were smaller than than what they spec by about half an inch. would like to get a lighter tire like toyo RT or Ridge grappler Terra grappler Falken AT

I have ridge grapplers in 285/70/17. Some days they look awesome to me, some they look small. But some days my truck looks massive, sometimes I think it's no bigger than a Tacoma. Depends where it's parked.

 

I had originally ordered the 295/70/17 but it was way too close to the cab mount on my 0 offset wheel. The 285s rubbed my fender liners pre ziptie, but they are fine now and I've thrashed it off-road with no problems. And my speedometer is dead on

 

04958ebc62520556e64232c50548609c.jpg

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...