Jump to content

Tire PSI & MPG's


Recommended Posts

Posted

Well I've had my truck for about 2 weeks now and am driving it a lot for work. I drive 180 miles per day. Tampa to Orlando. I now have about 1,100 miles on the truck. The MPG's on the truck overall are good. I'm happy with them. I have a 5.3L, 3.42 gear, 4x4, CC/SB config with SRA tires. I set my tires pressure cold, as in early Saturday morning before the sun hits the truck and after it's been sitting all night, to 35psi on a known dial gauge that is very good. My TPMS read-out shows 33 cold, and up to 37 when running during the day down the interstate. I noticed in the mornings/at night pressures stay at 34-35 on the TPMS on the Hwy and mileage is not as good as it is in the afternoons when the sun is out and it's hotter and the PSI's are 36-37. That's the only variable I can see. Mileage at night/morning is 18-19mpg. Same road, same speed, etc at 5pm and I'm gettings 20 solid.

 

1- How accurate is the TPMS system?

2- Does the TPMS system show actual PSI, or correct for temp any? IE- I set them to 35 cold on my dial gauge, when I see 37 on the TPMS at 75mph, is that actual 37?

3- I notice the rear pressure is MUCH more stable. I'll be running 75mph and I normally run just me, empty. no load at all. Rear pressure is 33-34. Fronts are always 1-2psi higher. So they're running hotter and have more weight on them. Wondering if I should bump the fronts 1-2psi vs the rear. 35 rear, 37 front cold. Thoughts?

 

 

Thanks guys.

  • Replies 32
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Ill take the smooth ride and 22 MPG at 32 PSI hot. 5.3-342- Hypertech tune.

That is exactly what I do. Goodyears suck. Waiting on 'em to wear out. 32-33 -much better ride.

Posted

The tire pressure variations due to temperature is only one parameter that varies. Another is air density. As the air cools, the air molecules get close together. Your engine may be happier at night for making power(not necessarily mileage) but the truck is a virtual aerodynamic barn. Thicker air is more drag. Aerodynamic drag can be about 2-3 times tire drag at highway cruise speeds.

Posted

^ didn't think of that. And on my work truck, sam '14 config but 2wd and 3.08 gear with the GY Eco tires 33psi cold was the golden ticket. Rode harsh above that. When I bought my personal '14 the dealer had them at like 40psi and it rode like a cement truck. I've only gotten down to 35 cold so far. rides a bit rough. I'm probably going to do 35 Front and 33 rear, cold. Using my dial gauge. Let the TPMS say what it wants.

Posted

So, is the fix for a harsh ride to lower the tire pressure up to maybe 5psi (or more) 'below' what the recommended door pillar cold pressure states? Is that the harsh ride blame - certain brand tires, or, could it be something else (shocks, springs, loose components, etc)? I have the GY Assurance Fuel Max P265 - 65R18 with door pillar saying 35psi all around. I have tried 33 all around and now I'll try 32 cold all around as a test. BTW, the TPMS reading in my DIC seems to vary tire-to-tire with no consistency or reason so I use it only to see if any one tire is losing air and needs to be checked.

Posted

Well I've had my truck for about 2 weeks now and am driving it a lot for work. I drive 180 miles per day. Tampa to Orlando. I now have about 1,100 miles on the truck. The MPG's on the truck overall are good. I'm happy with them. I have a 5.3L, 3.42 gear, 4x4, CC/SB config with SRA tires. I set my tires pressure cold, as in early Saturday morning before the sun hits the truck and after it's been sitting all night, to 35psi on a known dial gauge that is very good. My TPMS read-out shows 33 cold, and up to 37 when running during the day down the interstate. I noticed in the mornings/at night pressures stay at 34-35 on the TPMS on the Hwy and mileage is not as good as it is in the afternoons when the sun is out and it's hotter and the PSI's are 36-37. That's the only variable I can see. Mileage at night/morning is 18-19mpg. Same road, same speed, etc at 5pm and I'm gettings 20 solid.

 

1- How accurate is the TPMS system?

2- Does the TPMS system show actual PSI, or correct for temp any? IE- I set them to 35 cold on my dial gauge, when I see 37 on the TPMS at 75mph, is that actual 37?

3- I notice the rear pressure is MUCH more stable. I'll be running 75mph and I normally run just me, empty. no load at all. Rear pressure is 33-34. Fronts are always 1-2psi higher. So they're running hotter and have more weight on them. Wondering if I should bump the fronts 1-2psi vs the rear. 35 rear, 37 front cold. Thoughts?

 

 

Thanks guys.

Correct tire pressures should be on label on end of drivers door or on B pillar.

 

Pressures will be for a loaded truck, and may seem harsh (especially the rears) if truck is empty. Higher pressure will improve mileage and decrease ride comfort.

 

There is no such thing as temperature compensation for tire pressure. The tire pressure will go up as the tire temperature increases.

 

Rear seems more stable because the tire temp of the unloaded tire is not increasing as much as the tire temp of the more heavily loaded fronts. Load the back up to max and when driven the rear pressure (and tire temps) will go up also. (flexing the tire creates heat -- flexing it more due to load creates more heat)

Posted

^ exactly. OK, I have 35psi cold on the front, 33psi cold on the rears. I noticed with 35psi in the rears, unloaded I the outer edges were not wearing. I also drove home last night in a rain storm on I-4 from Orlando to Tampa. If I dropped the hammer to pass a car at 60mph the traction light would come on!! So I'm going to try 35F/33R now. If I tow or load up I'll up them to 35. I may even drop the rears to 32. I'm going to put a paint marker line across the treads. I've done this on many cars and it gives you an idea if you have to much or not enough air in the tire after driving it for a few hundred miles. If you see 1/2" of paint on the outer edges you need to let some air out. In Autocross racing they use this method also. I can tell the fronts DEFFINITELY need 35. Heavy front end.

 

 

I set my spare to 36 or 37psi. Being I only check that thing about every other month or before a long (2hrs or more from home). From my experience on multiples vehicles the spare always loses some air even doing nothing. The tires on the car lose air too, but I check those 2x month.

Posted

what about Nitrogen filled tires anybody tried this Norm

Won't hurt anything but paying extra for the service is a ripoff. Maybe if you're landing a space shuttle or using a race car but not road vehicles.

Posted

what about Nitrogen filled tires anybody tried this Norm

 

If you use a source with lots of moisture in the compressed air, dry nitrogen may help slightly to give more stable pressures vs temperatures. But don't bet on seeing any difference if you air source is normal.

Posted

I have the Cooper Discoverer H/T plus on mine.The dealer gave me a 500.00 credit for the crap goodyears that came on it toward the coopers. The size is 275/55-20. I currently have 12031 miles on them and ive been keeping a record of the wear every 500 miles with a depth guage. Now i'm sure different tire companies get different results, but from what I can tell, mine are wearing dead even on the front with 38psi and even on the back at 35psi. I've tried the nitrogen route with my wife's Murano, but I still had to add air to them not two months after it was done. If youve never tried the cooper tires, I would suggest trying a set. The last set I had on my 2010 SIlverado were wore out at 46000 miles. Ive never got that off any other brand so far.

Posted

Nice thread, I too live in Tampa, that drive to Orlando on I-4 bless you man, I make the trip maybe once a month when I go surf in cocoa beach. My tires are between 30-33psi depending on the day and where i am driving. I'm averaging about 22mpg i've noticed this Onstar app will show my tire pressure at 28psi sometimes. i sure hope that is wrong

Posted

I've had my truck serviced for reading low pressures on one particular tire. Not sure what they did to fix it but it appears to be functioning now. I think I'm going to run out and grab a paint pen this evening and see what is really going on with my tires. MPG maximization = more play dollars in my wallet...

Posted

As far as accuracy, my dash readout says 32psi cold but if I use my pressure gauge, I get 34psi.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...