Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
Trying to find on forums and YouTube but haven't come across  info that seem relivent to my application  . I like the great video on you tube on how to install the heated steering wheel very helpful and to the point but when he hooks up the driver air bag there is only 1 plug I believe his truck is a 2015 and the clock spring  23381964 says it fits 2014-2017 but shows 2 plugs  going into the air bag. So without taking  my wheel off to find out  if I I have 1 or 2 plugs going into my air bag  did anyone else ask themselves this same question? Do you only need to hook up 1 if you only have 1 and let the other just hang there?
 

Is your truck a 2500? I think that configuration of one airbag plug was for 2500.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

No 2016 sil 1500 lt. You have a 1500 lt correct? Did you have 2 plugs?There were a couple spots I couldn't quite hear what he said but may have said his was a  2500 . I will watch it again. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

  • Like 1
Posted
No 2016 sil 1500 lt. You have a 1500 lt correct? Did you have 2 plugs?There were a couple spots I couldn't quite hear what he said but may have said his was a  2500 . I will watch it again. Thanks for clarifying that for me.

If you’re talking about the video from
Tinkering Fox, yes. He has a 2500. I have a 2016 Silverado LT. So yours should have the 2 plugs like mine did.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

Yes, Tinkering Fox. watched yours also both great videos. Some how you guys make it look easy. Movie magic? Some how I think I will have to end up doing it twice, because I ran the wires through the wrong holes or something like that.  But thanks to both you and Tinkering Fox and many others that without your help a lot of people would still be scratching there heads.

  • Like 1
Posted
Yes, Tinkering Fox. watched yours also both great videos. Some how you guys make it look easy. Movie magic? Some how I think I will have to end up doing it twice, because I ran the wires through the wrong holes or something like that.  But thanks to both you and Tinkering Fox and many others that without your help a lot of people would still be scratching there heads.

I think the airbag removal is probably the most I was apprehensive about. I myself had to watch his video more than once. :)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Posted

It's a pretty simple install with the video as a guide. Did it on my '16.....just make sure you disconnect your battery and let sit for 10 min or so before you try to remove airbag

Posted

@Fullthrottletwo,

 

I used this clockspring:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Airbag-Air-Bag-Clock-Spring-for-Chevrolet-Silverado-Replace-OE-23381964/292114650884?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

 

and this steering wheel:  https://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemVersion&item=183591799954&view=all&tid=1908451851008

 

The wheel I used is the part# for a 2500. My 1500 had a weight attached to the old wheel that needed to be swapped over to the new 2500 wheel, took about a minute to do. The weight is the only difference.

 

The orange piece on the clockspring holds the spring in place. do not remove it until you install the clockspring. If you already pulled it off then use tape or caution to prevent the spring from moving around too much.

 

I have an IO3 system so my wheel doesn't light up but the cruise control and heat does work. I got worried when my wheel didn't light up but a member here reminded me that there's an extra wire that needs to be run for it. Another member mentions that if you make your own harness do not oversize the wire or else it will short cycle the heating functions. I can confirm this as I used 14g wire from the RAP for power and ground. I changed it to 22g, which is scarring me, and the heat function works a lot better.

 

I don't have a wire gauge tool and I can't see any wire markings on my clockspring. Can anyone confirm the wire size coming from the left dash fuse box to the connector on the clock spring, the purple wire with white strip?

 

I've read Pgamboa as pagoda too, LOL! He and several other members deserve a big thanks for figuring this stuff out for the rest of us. Thank you!

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

I know this may seem trivial as I can figure it out once I get the dash apart, but how long do I make the  single wire pigtail from the Fuse black to the connector? Its damn cold out and I don't want to really be working on this much more than I have to outside.

 

Sounds like a 22awg is the size to use, not to go larger in size.

 

Thanks

  • 1 month later...
Posted
On ‎2‎/‎28‎/‎2018 at 4:32 PM, cbrsilv15 said:

Yes. It will pop off with a Christmas tree clip and make it possible to work on. It’s tricky to get it out so you can pull the connector down. 

Lots of useful information here....thank you. This connector is kicking my butt. Pretty sure I have my hand on the right connector, grey with a green lever and a red button. I understand it's on a Christmas tree clip but can not get it down. Any ideas to help me out? Thanks in advance!

Posted
1 minute ago, dilligaf4 said:

Lots of useful information here....thank you. This connector is kicking my butt. Pretty sure I have my hand on the right connector, grey with a green lever and a red button. I understand it's on a Christmas tree clip but can not get it down. Any ideas to help me out? Thanks in advance!

Not that I can really remember off hand. You’ll just have to unclip it and try to wiggle everything out. It was a royal pain. 

Posted
12 minutes ago, cbrsilv15 said:

Not that I can really remember off hand. You’ll just have to unclip it and try to wiggle everything out. It was a royal pain. 

So am I trying to get the connector off the christmas tree or is it going to come down with the connector? 

Posted
6 minutes ago, dilligaf4 said:

So am I trying to get the connector off the christmas tree or is it going to come down with the connector? 

I believe it came down with the connector. It’s a very tight fit up there. 

Posted

379de0dbe451f78ab1a4069c1e49a65a.jpgDoes this help? I don’t know the context and presume we are talking about the clock spring swap with the pesky Christmas tree clip?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted
1 hour ago, pgamboa said:

379de0dbe451f78ab1a4069c1e49a65a.jpgDoes this help? I don’t know the context and presume we are talking about the clock spring swap with the pesky Christmas tree clip?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does anyone know what packages have the option for PnP like pgamboa? I have an LT All Star with heated bucket seats. Is there an RPO? I’d imagine not because they would probably actually put on the heated wheel if they gave my truck the RPO code. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...