AUX switch install

[tundaman]

I just finished my install today based off of install by @tha_lildude.

First of all my truck is a 2016 3500HD Duramax with Work Truck convenience package so I know this is the wrong sub-forum I'm posting in but it might still be similar for other trucks.

Parts list for my application:

• AUX switch for LML Duramax.  #23145163  [TC / Cargo / Exhaust Brake / AUX 1 /AUX 2 / AUX 3 / AUX 4]
• Wire 4 pieces #19301761 (load carrying) (big wire)
• Wire 8 pieces #19301767 (control) (small wire)

GMUpfitter says to use Connector #19328970 and wire #13578892 and wire #1357583.  My finds are you don't need these part number unless you intend to control the loads that are installed inside the cab of the truck.  If all your loads are going to be installed outside (lights, air compressor, beacons) then save some money.

 

I read the 2016 SIlverado/Sierra Electrical book and found the correct wire/terminals.  I also found where each wire is supposed to go.

 

Okay, from the top.

 

S48A is the block number for the switch panel located below the AC controls.

X61A is the block located in the driver foot well by the parking brake.

X50A is the underhood fuse block located on driver side behind the battery.

 

My truck had the wiring between S48A to X61A.  You can verify the wires are there by removing cover for X61A and checking connector X5.  X5 is white connector on bottom right. 

The pins you are looking for are:

• 10 RED/WH
• 17 YELLOW/WH
• 11 L-GREEN/WH
• 23 WH/D-BLUE

After you verify those are there I believe the next step is where the 9L7 rpo code changes things.

My truck didn't come with the wires between X61A connector X1 and X50A connectors X3, X5.  The control wire I mentioned above will go here.  #19301767.

X61A connector X1 is located on the back of X61A.  Remove 3 10mm nuts and turn it over.  Connector X1 is the lower of the 2 on the back.  You need 4 pieces of #19301767 wire.

Those wires need to be inserted into the X1 connector. 

Remove X1 connector from X61A block.

Remove terminal hold down cover (blue thing opposite wires)( prevents terminals from pulling out and being put in.)

Insert wire to :

• 21 RED/WH
• 34 YELLOW/WH
• 30 L-GREEN/WH
• 38 WH/D-BLUE

reinstall terminal hold down cover for X1.

 

Next you need to verify you have the right fuse block X50A.  According to tha_lildude, his truck didn't have the male terminals under his fuse block.  When I pulled my fuse block I found out that I have all the proper male terminals under the fuse block.  I am not sure what model options or trim levels will affect this but my truck is a 3500HD WT Duramax.  My X50A underhood fuse block part number is #23285571.

Tip: remove the HORN fuse so you can reinstall the fuse block in peace, the truck alarm will sound when you plug the fuse block back in.

• Remove X50A fuse block by flipping the 2 levers and pulling straight up.
• Remove 13mm nut from battery cable to fuse block.
• X4 is the connector in the middle toward rear of truck.(where the battery cable went).  X3 should be the connector closest to driver fender toward rear of truck.  When looking at fuse block side or connector side you need to remember what position you are looking at it from.  Need to think upside down.
• On the X4 section of the fuse block you need to see if the following male terminals are there.  The fuse block has letters and numbers cast into the plastic so it should be easy.
  • G2 big terminal
  • L6 small terminal
  • K5 big terminal
  • L1 small terminal
  • K2 big terminal
• On the X3 section of the fuse block you need to see if the following male terminals are there
  • M5 small terminal
  • M7 big terminal
  • F3 small terminal
• Once you check the fuse block side you can install the wires that will connect to X61A.
• Press tab and slide X4 connector out.  Remove back cover.  Remove blue terminal hold down cover.  The back of the connector also has numbers and letters cast into the plastic but they're small so bring a magnifying glass or something.  You need 3 pieces of #19301761 wire and 2 pieces of #19301767 wire.  Insert the wire into the following:
  • G2 GREY/BLACK (big wire)
  • L6 L-GREEN/WH (small wire)
  • K5 YELLOW/BROWN (big wire)
  • L1 WH/D-BLUE (small wire)
  • K5 RED/L-GREEN (big wire)
• Reassemble X4 connector and reinstall.
• Press tab and slide X3 connector out.  Remove back cover.  Remove blue terminal hold down cover.  The back of the connector also has numbers and letters cast into the plastic but they're small so bring a magnifying glass or something.  You need 1 pieces of #19301761 wire and 2 pieces of #19301767 wire.  Insert the wire into the following:
  • M5 RED/WH (small wire)
  • M7 D-BLUE (big wire)
  • F3 YELLOW/WH (small wire)
• Reassemble X3 connector and reinstall.
• Take 4 small wires coming from X50A fuse block and match them with the 4 small wires from X61A
• 4 big wires coming from X50A will go to power your loads.

Wiring diagrams are from 2016 Silverado/Sierra Electrical Manual found on GM Upfitters.  Important pages are 

• 530
• 538
• 541
• 576
• 577

Also UI Bulletin #110L from Gm Upfitters is helpful.

[tundaman]

Switch bank for LML diesel.

[tundaman]

X50 underhood fuse block

[KJS Sullivan]

I didn't add any wires to the brake controller connection, it is a complete harness. That's why I am thinking I can just find the stock relay location and utilize the OEM wiring, instead of taping into the wires at the plug. But if not then I will use wire taps and connect my switch trigger to the switch output and then my output to the relay will connect to the indicator ground.  
I have everything connected and it all works great! I will have to modify the schematic just to show that the low output from my latching relays is also run to the switch for the indicator lights, so I used two wires for each switch. I have a video that I will try to post later. Everything works just like it would from the factory. Here are a few pics of the wiring while I was installing.
 
module mounted under steering wheel
harness to power/ground and relays
harness showing plug for module and wires to OEM connector
switch installed

Is it possible to change the order / location of the switches?, i find the current order from the factory inconvenient. Id rather have exhaust brake and pedal adjustment switched positions. .

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[AZelkhunter]

19 minutes ago, KJS Sullivan said:

Is it possible to change the order / location of the switches?, i find the current order from the factory inconvenient. Id rather have exhaust brake and pedal adjustment switched positions. .

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Neither the pedal adjust or engine brake can be swapped out. The pedal can't because it has two switches mounted to the PCB and the engine brake has a different connector/circuitry on the PCB.   I think you could probably switch other switch positions by modifying the wire location in the harness and physically moving the switch button.   Not 100% sure about that. 

[KJS Sullivan]

Neither the pedal adjust or engine brake can be swapped out. The pedal can't because it has two switches mounted to the PCB and the engine brake has a different connector/circuitry on the PCB.   I think you could probably switch other switch positions by modifying the wire location in the harness and physically moving the switch button.   Not 100% sure about that. 

Thank you for the reply. It's not a big need to relocate them it just seems the engine brake should be a lot closer than the pedal adjustment I do a lot of Towing and it just would be a better location personal preference. Thank you for your input though.

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[MNorby]

@tha_lildude and @tundaman no mention of program these features on in the BCM was necessary I assume? Does this also allow you to move the fuse to change if the circuit is battery or ignition switched as mentioned in the upfitter bulletin? Thank you guys for your work on figuring this out. 

[tha_lildude]

@MNorby Sorry for the delayed response. No extra bcm programming necessary. I haven’t even checked to see if the circuit for battery or ignition fuse location was operable or not. Both of mine were placed in the 12v constant location. I can check tomorrow and I’ll add on this post my results. 

[tundaman]

@MNorby, I believe having the correct X50 fuse block will give you the ability to change between Battery powered and Ignition powered as described in the GM Upfitters bulletin.

[Gbert33]

Ok... I have been researching this for a while now and still stuck. My 2016 2500HD came with just the cargo light and traction control switches. I read the bulletins and found my truck had all of the correct fuses and relays. I ordered the new switch bank and plugged it in. I found no power on the 4 pins in junction block x61a. I removed a relay and confirmed that it was wired. I even jumped the relay from 30 to 87 and got power to my 30 amp fuse but still nothing down below. Is it possible they put in all the relays and fuses without connecting the wiring to the junction block? Or am I missing something...

[Tomstruck]

On 2/4/2018 at 1:53 PM, Gbert33 said:

Ok... I have been researching this for a while now and still stuck. My 2016 2500HD came with just the cargo light and traction control switches. I read the bulletins and found my truck had all of the correct fuses and relays. I ordered the new switch bank and plugged it in. I found no power on the 4 pins in junction block x61a. I removed a relay and confirmed that it was wired. I even jumped the relay from 30 to 87 and got power to my 30 amp fuse but still nothing down below. Is it possible they put in all the relays and fuses without connecting the wiring to the junction block? Or am I missing something...

You may want to check with your local dealer to see if they need preform a "Customer Satisfaction Campaign" (CSC#14284), all you need to do is give them you vin and they can look up to see if you need to have your main fuse box under the hood (X50A) replaced for the correct one.  This was an issue that effected some 2015 vehicles but should have been fixed so all vehicles manufactured in 2016 and after should not run into any problems, I would check this first as all it really is just a phone call to make 100% sure you have the correct X50A fuse box.

[JohnnyTooTall]

I have to say, guys.. I'm really impressed how well you guys did. 

 

I have a '17 GMC 2500 6.0L that I use as a work truck. SLE package with just three toggles - traction control, cargo lights, and hill assist. I need to wire in a few more controls, such as a master control for a slip tank, light bar, and additional cargo lights. It looks like Tundaman's switch bank would work perfect for my needs.

 

Would it be compatible with a gas truck? (The exhaust brake being used by hill assist). I'm a bit of an amateur when it comes to wiring, but if Tundaman, smcgillis10, or Azelkhunter would be willing to spend some time walking me through the purchasing of parts, setting up, and troubleshooting - I'd be more than happy to compensate either of you.

Edited April 20, 2018 by JohnnyTooTall

[pgamboa]

@tinkering fox. I know he spent a lot time digging into this. Some of the button switches of similar type can be relocated and after moving circuits in the connector.


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[TinkeringFox]

On 4/20/2018 at 4:00 PM, JohnnyTooTall said:

I have to say, guys.. I'm really impressed how well you guys did. 

 

I have a '17 GMC 2500 6.0L that I use as a work truck. SLE package with just three toggles - traction control, cargo lights, and hill assist. I need to wire in a few more controls, such as a master control for a slip tank, light bar, and additional cargo lights. It looks like Tundaman's switch bank would work perfect for my needs.

 

Would it be compatible with a gas truck? (The exhaust brake being used by hill assist). I'm a bit of an amateur when it comes to wiring, but if Tundaman, smcgillis10, or Azelkhunter would be willing to spend some time walking me through the purchasing of parts, setting up, and troubleshooting - I'd be more than happy to compensate either of you.

Hi there, I’ve been working on a comprehensive video on all of this with part numbers and explanations, diagrams etc. you have a few options that are pretty easy since you don’t have adjustable pedals. I just got my new X50A (under hood fuse box) in the mail and found a new relay for a second fuel pump. The reason I bought it was for the four AUX/Upfitter relays. This would be perfect for your application. If you can hang in there a few more weeks I’ll have everything complete and post the video. 

[JohnnyTooTall]

6 minutes ago, TinkeringFox said:

Hi there, I’ve been working on a comprehensive video on all of this with part numbers and explanations, diagrams etc. you have a few options that are pretty easy since you don’t have adjustable pedals. I just got my new X50A (under hood fuse box) in the mail and found a new relay for a second fuel pump. The reason I bought it was for the four AUX/Upfitter relays. This would be perfect for your application. If you can hang in there a few more weeks I’ll have everything complete and post the video. 

That sounds great, Tinkeringfox. Do you know if Tundaman's switch bank would work in my application? I can easily wait a few weeks to a month for instructions, but as I reside in Northern Canada and work a 24 day/4 day off shift, I would like to try and get parts ordered up as soon as possible to allow me to make full use of days off. Several items such as my cold air intake can take up to a month to get ordered in.