AUX switch install

rbrjr1 · January 8, 2020

I noticed that in the upfitter bulletin for the X7 harness coming out of X61A that there are many many other pigtails that can be utilized (shown in yellow below)

Does anyone have insight on what these other leads can be used for? (my GM15547108 connector came with leads in all 20 connector locations)

AND

Are the 4 pins we're connecting to the X50A (pin 1,4,14,20) the only pins that are "not connected" from the factory? (assuming people dont have the 9L7 RPO code)

Edited January 8, 2020 by rbrjr1

Vuk · January 9, 2020

I completed my install of relay latching boards to convert AUX 1/2 pushbuttons to switches. Many options exist but the two boards I got conveniently (tightly) fit in a project box I had. Blue/red/white wires lead to the multifunction switch according to one of my previous posts, pink is constant fused positive from AUX battery, black is ground, and red/white is the control wire for my inverter from AUX 1 switch (other one currently does nothing). Relays on these boards are DPDT so I can switch a ground lead (for my AUX 1/2 indicators on the buttons), and also a positive (for whatever). It all fit nicely under the dash.

For members reading this for the first time and wondering why some of us are doing completely different things, in essence, if you have a setup of switches allowing you to use a multifunction switch bank in its original shape with AUX switches, then you can retrofit a portion of the wiring to get it to work in the factory style, and utilize factory fuse/relay sockets. On the other hand, if you are in a situation where you have to combine multiple switch banks, you get pushbuttons for AUX functions (and not switches), which then somehow need to be wired to work as switches (that is to toggle relays) - when these relay latching boards come into play.

Also as a note, I removed the red LEDs from these boards signifying that relays are off to reduce parasitic draw (since this is hooked up to constant positive from my AUX battery). Each of these boards draws about 3.5mA (when LED indicating normally-closed active state is removed) which is not bad if you have only a small number of them.

Edited January 9, 2020 by Vuk

Willswilly · January 10, 2020

How do I get the plug apart to add the new wires

Vuk · January 10, 2020

On the opposite side of what you are looking at is a tab that secures the connector housing with the lever. Insert a small flathead screwdriver from the wire entry side to release the tab and pull the housing away from the wires (it will slide out towards the opposite direction than the direction wires are coming in).

Edited January 10, 2020 by Vuk

1/4milecrazy · January 20, 2020

On 12/11/2017 at 3:12 AM, tundaman said:

I just finished my install today based off of install by @tha_lildude.

First of all my truck is a 2016 3500HD Duramax with Work Truck convenience package so I know this is the wrong sub-forum I'm posting in but it might still be similar for other trucks.

Parts list for my application:

AUX switch for LML Duramax. #23145163 [TC / Cargo / Exhaust Brake / AUX 1 /AUX 2 / AUX 3 / AUX 4]

Wire 4 pieces #19301761 (load carrying) (big wire)

Wire 8 pieces #19301767 (control) (small wire)

GMUpfitter says to use Connector #19328970 and wire #13578892 and wire #1357583. My finds are you don't need these part number unless you intend to control the loads that are installed inside the cab of the truck. If all your loads are going to be installed outside (lights, air compressor, beacons) then save some money.

I read the 2016 SIlverado/Sierra Electrical book and found the correct wire/terminals. I also found where each wire is supposed to go.

Okay, from the top.

S48A is the block number for the switch panel located below the AC controls.

X61A is the block located in the driver foot well by the parking brake.

X50A is the underhood fuse block located on driver side behind the battery.

My truck had the wiring between S48A to X61A. You can verify the wires are there by removing cover for X61A and checking connector X5. X5 is white connector on bottom right.

The pins you are looking for are:

10 RED/WH

17 YELLOW/WH

11 L-GREEN/WH

23 WH/D-BLUE

After you verify those are there I believe the next step is where the 9L7 rpo code changes things.

My truck didn't come with the wires between X61A connector X1 and X50A connectors X3, X5. The control wire I mentioned above will go here. #19301767.

X61A connector X1 is located on the back of X61A. Remove 3 10mm nuts and turn it over. Connector X1 is the lower of the 2 on the back. You need 4 pieces of #19301767 wire.

Those wires need to be inserted into the X1 connector.

Remove X1 connector from X61A block.

Remove terminal hold down cover (blue thing opposite wires)( prevents terminals from pulling out and being put in.)

Insert wire to :

21 RED/WH

34 YELLOW/WH

30 L-GREEN/WH

38 WH/D-BLUE

reinstall terminal hold down cover for X1.

Next you need to verify you have the right fuse block X50A. According to tha_lildude, his truck didn't have the male terminals under his fuse block. When I pulled my fuse block I found out that I have all the proper male terminals under the fuse block. I am not sure what model options or trim levels will affect this but my truck is a 3500HD WT Duramax. My X50A underhood fuse block part number is #23285571.

Tip: remove the HORN fuse so you can reinstall the fuse block in peace, the truck alarm will sound when you plug the fuse block back in.

Remove X50A fuse block by flipping the 2 levers and pulling straight up.

Remove 13mm nut from battery cable to fuse block.

X4 is the connector in the middle toward rear of truck.(where the battery cable went). X3 should be the connector closest to driver fender toward rear of truck. When looking at fuse block side or connector side you need to remember what position you are looking at it from. Need to think upside down.

On the X4 section of the fuse block you need to see if the following male terminals are there. The fuse block has letters and numbers cast into the plastic so it should be easy.

G2 big terminal

L6 small terminal

K5 big terminal

L1 small terminal

K2 big terminal

On the X3 section of the fuse block you need to see if the following male terminals are there

M5 small terminal

M7 big terminal

F3 small terminal

Once you check the fuse block side you can install the wires that will connect to X61A.

Press tab and slide X4 connector out. Remove back cover. Remove blue terminal hold down cover. The back of the connector also has numbers and letters cast into the plastic but they're small so bring a magnifying glass or something. You need 3 pieces of #19301761 wire and 2 pieces of #19301767 wire. Insert the wire into the following:

G2 GREY/BLACK (big wire)

L6 L-GREEN/WH (small wire)

K5 YELLOW/BROWN (big wire)

L1 WH/D-BLUE (small wire)

K5 RED/L-GREEN (big wire)

Reassemble X4 connector and reinstall.

Press tab and slide X3 connector out. Remove back cover. Remove blue terminal hold down cover. The back of the connector also has numbers and letters cast into the plastic but they're small so bring a magnifying glass or something. You need 1 pieces of #19301761 wire and 2 pieces of #19301767 wire. Insert the wire into the following:

M5 RED/WH (small wire)

M7 D-BLUE (big wire)

F3 YELLOW/WH (small wire)

Reassemble X3 connector and reinstall.

Take 4 small wires coming from X50A fuse block and match them with the 4 small wires from X61A

4 big wires coming from X50A will go to power your loads.

Wiring diagrams are from 2016 Silverado/Sierra Electrical Manual found on GM Upfitters. Important pages are

530

538

541

576

577

Also UI Bulletin #110L from Gm Upfitters is helpful.

So I am hoping someone can help me out here. 2019 Sierra Limited. Bought the proper switch panel, got the pigtails I needed, pulled it all apart and 10-13 are occupied. Pull the Junction block (X61A) near the e-brake, 21 has the red/white and other wires as described above. Open the fuse block and there are no terminals where the relays and fuses are supposed to go. So I am assuming I need a new fuse block, what part number? and then if the wires go from the fuse block back to X61A then I would need a connector for X61a with outputs. (?)

stlmaj · February 2, 2020

On 9/8/2016 at 7:48 AM, tooch420 said:

Look at what i found on amazon.com, I think it looks just like those and comes with plugs to make your own.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-2-54mm-Headers-Connector-Housing/dp/B014YTPFT8/ref=pd_sim_60_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=7Q20BZHTKWYF4JGAWFHH

Do not buy these as they do not lock into the connector. If you don't believe me Ill send you mine for 9 since I wasted $10 on them...

stone150 · February 13, 2020

Anyone know if the Colorado switches are the same size at the silverado/Sierra ones? Looking to install a E-Locker and looking at two possible options. If option 1 doesn't work, I'd like to go with the Aux route.

Edited February 13, 2020 by stone150

tcostello · February 26, 2020

So, I'm looking for the ultra simplified version of what pins need power, ground and which are the signal wires for AUX 1-4 on PN : 23145191

From what ive gathered, tc, cargo and assist are all plug and play. I will be using relays with the AUX switches and will not be going to the OE fuse box. i just need power for the lights when AUX's are toggled and to hit the relay I think i would be fine with grabbing power from any SW location or repinning the front cigar to become sw and capping it off as it is never used.

TheNewGuy2 · February 29, 2020

On 10/7/2018 at 1:58 AM, TinkeringFox said:

This is covered in a video I’ve been working on for some time now, just really busy with work.

did you ever finish the video?

TheNewGuy2 · February 29, 2020

hey there, im having trouble de pinning S48A Multifunction Switch - Instrument Panel X2 connector. on page 1201 (Electrical Manual), it states Terminal Removal Tool "not required". i removed the blue locking clip on the connector, but cant get any of the terminals to release even with the delphi terminal removal tool. anyone have suggestions? i already de pinned my x1 no problems with the same tool.

shout out to @TinkeringFox for all the great post and videos on this thread. i really appreciate the work you put into this. the button swap video helped a ton.

i hope you still plan on posting that video i quoted above

ive read this thread over a dozen times, i really wish we could clip quoted post that have the same 20 pictures over and over again, what a headache thats been.

Edited February 29, 2020 by TheNewGuy2
added picture

Lnafree · April 7, 2020

On this switch, is the light wire ground or hot? I have it actuating a latching relay for a rear led bar. Just want the in switch indicator to come on park sns, and cng.