Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

I took mine out as well and haven't had anymore issues for a month or more in humid weather and cold. I used some gortex patches from TRS on the holes in my dustcaps, only been on there a week or so, but no issues yet. Supposedly they will let moisture out but not in. Time will tell..

If they fail, I've got plenty of packets left lol.

 

-Skeet

Edited by SkeeterMcSkeet
Posted

I took mine out as well and haven't had anymore issues for a month or more in humid weather and cold. I used some gortex patches from TRS on the holes in my dustcaps, only been on there a week or so, but no issues yet. Supposedly they will let moisture out but not in. Time will tell..

If they fail, I've got plenty of packets left lol.

 

-Skeet

Skeet, I think your on the right track.

 

I know I probably sound like a broken record by now, but I'll repeat what I've been saying all along.

 

The headlight housings require a proper venting system.

 

I've been considering doing exactly what you have done. Drilling a hole into the dust cover and covering it with a breathable fabric.

 

Here is some info from a company that provides venting systems to the automotive industry...

 

http://www.gore.com/MungoBlobs/314/542/02_GORE_Automotive_Vents_Brochure_Exterior_Lighting.pdf

 

Unparalleled Protection of the Housing Interior GORE® Automotive Vents deliver unparalleled protection from the climate, road and vehicle conditions that can negatively impact lighting performance, aesthetics and customer satisfaction. The breathable GORE™ membrane, with pores about 20,000 times smaller than a water droplet, effectively blocks ingress of dust, dirt, road debris, water splashes, automotive fluids and other external contaminants from entering the housing and fouling lenses or sensitive electronics. These same pores allow rapid, bidirectional air and gas exchange, to continuously equalize external and internal housing pressures.

 

More Reliable Release of Moisture Reliable pressure equalization is critical, because rapid changes in pressure can compromise lighting performance and lifespan. Without proper venting, moisture can enter and remain in the housing through: • Permeation: when moisture vapor permeates the plastics often used for lenses or housings. • Absorption/desorption: when plastic lamp components attract and release moisture within the housing. • Condensation: can form when moisture increases due to factors such as repeated temperature differentials within, or adjacent to, the housing. GORE® Automotive Vents reliably release moisture that can enter through all these paths, to help avert premature lamp failure and warranty claims.

  • Like 2
Posted

Which type would you get? AVS 9,42, or 100? Where do you get it form and do they just sell to distributors??

  • 2 months later...
Posted

ill be doing a retrofit HID in the coming weeks i am going to spend some time looking for the factory vents on the housings when i take them out. i will be plugging up any i find drilling my own vent hole with vent hose and filling the housings once sealed up with pure nitrogen. see how that works.

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Any updates on this issue? Gave my truck a much need washing yesterday and noticed both the high and low beam on my drivers side were fogging up. I need to get the transfer case update, my hvac looked at (ac stays on till I turn off recirculate), and my crappy FM reception looked at so I guess I'll add this to my growing list.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I noticed the moisture in my lamps as well. I have a 2015 Sierra with 2400 KMs on it. Always concentrated in front of the LEDs when the temperature dips. I know GMC says this is normal, but it isn't. This is my first domestic vehicle after many years of Japanese and European cars and I have never seen this before. If you don't rid the moisture, pretty soon you'll have algae forming inside. Is that normal? It's like a little greenhouse in there.

 

So, tonight I cracked both lamps and taped a fresh desiccant pack in each assembly. That should take care of it I hope.

 

Thinking that a giant truck would have easily accessible headlamps - boy was I wrong. What a mission. I used to think removing the battery in my Subaru to replace a headlamp was bad. When I read "see your dealer" in the GM user manual with respect to the passenger side headlamp assembly I knew I was in for it. You have to completely remove the air filter. Craziness! Why am I doing this to my 3 week old truck!?

 

Being new to domestic vehicles, I have to say there's so many fiddly things that they just don't get right. Fit and finish in some places is terrible. Like the bank of switches below the HVAC controls - they flop around like wet noodles - who OK's a design like that? Dumb little design errors shouldn't exist on a $60K truck.

Posted

Yeah my bottom third of both lights are fogged up, just noticed this when I picked up gas. What caused me to look was when I was on the highway, the light was going from the normal white to a yellow hue. I thought I had something on the front of the truck. Not sure what is going on, no warnings or codes when I plugged in a reader. Going to call the local dealer (out of town for the weekend) and see if it something that needs to be fixed right away, or I will wait until I get home and bring it to the dealer I bought it from.

Posted

Mine fogged for the first time today.RATS! Now the headlights that sucked from light output now look like....Bottom third of lens. I will not vote for GM tomarrow ! LOL.

Posted

So this hasn't been fixed yet either? How does GM make trucks like this?

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I had lower 1/3 fog in my headlights on day one. It never went away even after long drives. I told the dealer and they put in new headlights - they were foggy by the time I got home and wouldn't clear on their own.

 

I removed the sealing cap, turned the lights on to help warm them up - and took a heat gun to gently run all the moisture out (took about 10 minutes each on low), put the sealing cap back on and now they're clear. I think part of the problem is they're sealing in whatever the ambient atmospheric humidity is and it's got nowhere to go.

 

I have a headlight rock chip (clear bra) kit - haven't put it on yet - but wonder if that would give it an "insulation" factor that might help - these are the thinnest headlights (plastic surface) I've ever seen.

 

???

Edited by majorsmackdown
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I just wanted to add my experience to this thread. I'm sure there is plenty of information out there but I had a fogging issue on my driver's side headlamp, pretty bad actually. There was condensation building up to the point that after the required 4 hour time frame from GM (they said moisture should go away by 4 hours) it was still there. I went to my dealer and even thought I had put the HID kit in from theretrofitsource.com, they warrantied my headlight. (the cost of the headlight was 910 if I had to buy it!!) it's been 3 weeks and NO FOGGING issues whatsoever now. there is a slight film of moisture if it is highly muggy out and then gets cool, however, this goes away very quickly as the vented headlights should. Just a note on the HID install, I did place windshield glue on the outside of the hole that i drilled into the headlamp cap and I think this helped, but I can't be sure. Bottom line my dealer replaced the headlamp and now I have no issues. Hope this helps someone!!

Posted

Are the warranty replacement headlights any different than stock? I had condensation today so I'm wondering if replacing mine will be worth it.

Posted (edited)

 

Are the warranty replacement headlights any different than stock? I had condensation today so I'm wondering if replacing mine will be worth it.

 

I didn't find that they were different in that they look the same. However they don't fog. I guess that's the biggest difference that I have found. And I didn't have to pay 900 bucks.

Edited by nonducorduco
  • Like 1
Posted

So I have had the foggy headlight problem on my truck since day one. It never fully clears up. I have been to the dealer twice and they tell me that gm doesn't authorize a replacement unless there is water actually pooling in the light housing.

 

I don't see how this condition can be called normal.

 

between this, the exhaust smell in the cab, and trim literally falling off a truck with <1000 km I am starting to regret my $60,000 purchase.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • This is NOT impact damage nor neglect. There were previous class action lawsuits because of such paint preparation st GM manufacturing plant. Not just the Cherry Red Color. This paint is applied in three processes to obtain the desired color.  The manufacturer will cover for 36 months or 36k miles only. That rust is actually corrosion because of the paint process failure. Corrosion is covered for 100,100 miles or a certain months. However their corrosion doesn't include this type. Go figure. Clearly manufacturer knew from previous paint issues. This started 3 weeks ago out of the blue.  
    • Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...