Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

 

While Bilstein suggests the 5160 reservoir shocks to be used with the 6112, its about 50/50 in the Toyota communities what people run out back. Yes, we have several people who only buy the fronts and keep stock rears, or those who run them with 5100s in the rear.

 

on that note, what do you think about the 5160s designed for the gmt trucks on our k2xx trucks or is bilstein developing production models specifically valved for our trucks?

  • Like 1
Posted

Bilstein will have new part numbers for application specific 5160s for the new trucks. I am sure the other ones would work just fine (We run Tundra shocks on lifted Tacomas, Jeep shocks on lifted mercedes, etc), but Bilstein will optimize the new shocks for these specific trucks.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm running the 5165's with the 255/70 valving in the rear and can confirm they're a pretty significant improvement over the 5100's I was running. Assuming the valving they come up with isn't too far off that, I'd expect the same with their new 5160's.

Posted

I'm running the 5165's with the 255/70 valving in the rear and can confirm they're a pretty significant improvement over the 5100's I was running. Assuming the valving they come up with isn't too far off that, I'd expect the same with their new 5160's.

 

Exactly how I felt moving from the 5100 to the 5160 rear. 5160 can be described as being... sportier? Feels more significant.

 

For lifted applications, we will also come up with a table of 5165s you can use in conjunction with the 6112 front / lift spacer / bracket...

Posted (edited)

I would never need a larger diameter for cooling because I wont be beating on them.

 

The diameter isn't just for cooling. It basically allows the shock to do everything it does better. It's of particular help with an IFS where 1" of wheel travel only means a bit more than 1/2" of shock travel. If the shock is only moving a small amount of fluid, it can only exert a small amount of control over a given movement. A larger diameter piston moving more fluid means it's possible for the shock to give a damping response closer to what the Engineers want for a given input.

 

 

 

Exactly how I felt moving from the 5100 to the 5160 rear. 5160 can be described as being... sportier? Feels more significant.

 

Yes, much better handling. More controlled, less "bouncy and floaty" feelings from the rear. And seemingly even softer over sharp bumps. A worthwhile upgrade.

 

 

For lifted applications, we will also come up with a table of 5165s you can use in conjunction with the 6112 front / lift spacer / bracket...

 

That would be helpful. The 5165's need new spacers and bushings to work with these trucks which scares most people off. If offered as a package for the application maybe more people would give them a chance. Is the 255/70 valving what you typically use on the Tundras and Tacomas?

 

I have a feeling the 6112's combined with leveling kit spacers and new UCA's may become a popular choice for those looking to lift ~2.5" without losing much droop travel and wanting the best ride they can get for the money. And of course any lift kit that uses the stock spring and shock should work with them as well.

Edited by Jon A
  • Like 1
Posted

Bilstein will have new part numbers for application specific 5160s for the new trucks. I am sure the other ones would work just fine (We run Tundra shocks on lifted Tacomas, Jeep shocks on lifted mercedes, etc), but Bilstein will optimize the new shocks for these specific trucks.

 

Thanks for the info, will probably depend on timing and price. Ready to level this thing now but its too cold to mess with. Love any updates around these you can provide as you learn more, Ill be watching closely.

  • Like 1
Posted

I just don't think I can wait for the 6112, if the release is still set for march/april, then backorder issues. As MRT said, they only made a few Tundra's thus far. If I don't end up moving to a duramax, i'll be doing the fox 2.0. I don't do any wheeling other than hunting roads, the mountain road to my cabin and the beach, I really just want a small lift with enhanced ride characteristics, I think Fox will fit the bill.

  • Like 1
Posted

You should drive the Tundra TRD PRO and feel how that suspension feels. I think the Bilsten 6112s would be well worth the wait.

  • Like 1
Posted

I did last week actually, and it's great. But the Fox should be equivalent as the 6112 will use the same spring. I can't stand my z71 suspension much longer. I may buy my bosses 2015 LTZ Duramax, which would solve this dilemma for me

Posted

I just don't think I can wait for the 6112, if the release is still set for march/april, then backorder issues. As MRT said, they only made a few Tundra's thus far. If I don't end up moving to a duramax, i'll be doing the fox 2.0. I don't do any wheeling other than hunting roads, the mountain road to my cabin and the beach, I really just want a small lift with enhanced ride characteristics, I think Fox will fit the bill.

 

 

I am reserving the first production run for GM-Trucks.com members.

  • Like 1
Posted

please let us know as soon as that happens you will have my order

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Part is $233.87.     Not sure where $900 came from?  
    • Looks like you have it figured out. Did you run a sensor into the rear diff housing?    What sort of diff temp swings would you see towing or not? I have wondered how hot it can get 
    • Dealer just confirmed that GM is "out of AC compressors."  Not sure if all 2019 to 2026 trucks use the same compressor, but a shortage like that is hard to believe.  
    • I think we're reaching the end of constant projects/work.   The water pump bolt appears to have self-sealed, as it's not leaking anymore. I'll take it, and, I'm ready should it self-unseal! I was also getting an oil leak at the front oil pan seal and timing cover and came to find a pan bolt on the corner wasn't even finger-tight. Too easy. And, it was. But, it appears tightening it has reduced a leak producing spots on the ground every time I parked, to just a weep, leaving an occasional dot on the cardboard that lives under it while parked. That's acceptable on a 30 year old engine in my book. I do hate leaks, but, replacing the pan seal is quite the job.   The rear washer line is reconnected and the sprayer works, although getting an intermittent washer fluid drip off the bottom. I think it's just residual...the reservoir filled up the channel in the rear floor and drained down into the upside-down spare tire/wheel. So there are residual puddles all over under there, will wait a few days for it to spill out and dry before I go chasing a potential leak.   The door speaker...no dice. Speaker works just fine, it's that channel in the factory amp that's gone bad. Can't win 'em all. And, whomever buys this will probably tear out the factory radio for something more modern anyway.   I put about 110 miles on it yesterday. Put a lot of wind and heat into it with some mountain driving. Still runs great. Near the top of the pass I got off on a gravel side road and put about 10 miles on with 4hi engaged. Works great.   If ya squint, she's mint! God I wish these were still in production. I can see why they're not. They're rudimentary bordering on agricultural. They began life as a pickup truck and then modern society demanded the rear be enclosed for kids and crap. They're still a pickup underneath, and that gives them lots of ride character, sway and bounce and bump steer. They're alive on the road, and, at least for purposes of nostalgia, it makes driving one a lot of fun.   The Check Engine light did come back on the pass, P0134 for the upstream O2 sensor dropping out. Putting heat into the exhaust causes it after about 10-15 seconds of increased load at higher RPM. The downstream sensor is completely mangled (someone clearly had a rough time removing it, but they didn't replace it?) so I'll just put two in it. For what, mostly to cure the CEL, I can tell the cat is damaged. It's not plugged or fractured, but it's not catalyzing. There's some guilt in not fixing it, but at a cost of $500+, the truck just won't get driven much under my watch. I dislike the smell...running the truck in the shop even with both doors open and the overhead fans blasting, I still reek of pre-cat exhaust. Sticks to clothing and everything else.   Window motor (I'm dreading this), and tires, and that should be about it. 50/50 on Starfire Solarus H/T's, or spending $20 more per tire and going with Cooper Discoverer RT's. I like the look of the RT's a lot more, but is it worth it? I've got a really good (just very old) Toyo Open Country XTX on there now and I like it.  
    • From what I've seen, they "could" sell the switch but designed the assembly such that the switch can't be readily removed and replaced without removing a plastic locating pin.  Sure appears aimed at forcing the end user to purchase a $900 shifter assembly instead of a $20 switch.  Thankfully I still have some extended warranty left...  this one has had warranty repairs almost every 5K miles from the day I bought it.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...