Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
10 hours ago, KJS Sullivan said:

I just saw the Bilstein 5100 set of 4 for $294 free shipping on Amazon oh, FYI all you guys

Got a link to it? I can't find them anywhere on amazon as a set. Especially for that price.

Posted
54 minutes ago, 2kwik4u said:

Sounds like the 5100's are the way to go. Would I just leave them on the lowest setting, or is there a "middle setting" that results in no lift/drop?

 

My biggest complaint with the Ranchos is the "bounce" after the hit. Most noticeable on sharp edged bumps like expansion joints and things like that. It's almost as if there is NO rebound damping, and only bound damping. Hit the bump and there is a noticeable procession after the initial hit. Feels like there are 3-4 more oscillations in the suspension before it comes to rest. The low shaft speed damping seems OK as the truck doesn't float or bounce excessively, but the high shaft speed damping is off and makes the truck to stiff overall.

 

With any luck the 5100's will cure some of that. I'm nervous on going to a P tire as I tow a LOT in the summer. 2 trips a week on average to the lake with a 5,200lb boat, 4 people, coolers, etc. Don't want to get a set of tires that tow "squishy". Had P tires on my '03 Yukon, swapped to LT tires and the towing got much better immediately.......I'll go read some other threads on that though :D

The lowest setting will give you 0 lift or drop. In theory it should give you the best and softest right as well, but I've only tried the third setting which is a 1.25 inch lift.

 

The Bilstein will fix that bounce and wallow you get after you had a big bomb. They didn't work miracles like some people reported in my opinion, but they were a definite improvement. My truck also had under a thousand Miles when I put them on. 

 

As for LT tires even a p rated tire exceeds our trucks rated capability, but I'm sure not all tires are created equal as far as ride quality and towing confidence. I'd only want LT tires if I offroaded and was afraid of my tires getting cut by sharp rocks, or I had a 3/4 ton.  I don't have a ton of experience towing though what size tire and rim size were you using? Extra wide tires would definitely describe the problem you were having as well. 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Yondu said:

The lowest setting will give you 0 lift or drop. In theory it should give you the best and softest right as well, but I've only tried the third setting which is a 1.25 inch lift.

 

The Bilstein will fix that bounce and wallow you get after you had a big bomb. They didn't work miracles like some people reported in my opinion, but they were a definite improvement. My truck also had under a thousand Miles when I put them on. 

 

As for LT tires even a p rated tire exceeds our trucks rated capability, but I'm sure not all tires are created equal as far as ride quality and towing confidence. I'd only want LT tires if I offroaded and was afraid of my tires getting cut by sharp rocks, or I had a 3/4 ton.  I don't have a ton of experience towing though what size tire and rim size were you using? Extra wide tires would definitely describe the problem you were having as well. 

Thanks for the info on the shocks. 

 

I can't remember the tire size on the Yukon. They were stock size as best as I can tell. I also moved to a 17in rim from a 16in rim at the same time. That might also have contributed to the increased stiffness, hadn't thought about that until now. I'll have to check the axle ratings and the tire ratings to see where I land on a set of P tires. I do very little off-roading around sharp rocks. Lots of gravel and mud trails around a friends farm, and then the wet boat ramps dictated the 4wd.

Posted
1 hour ago, 2kwik4u said:

Got a link to it? I can't find them anywhere on amazon as a set. Especially for that price.

Bilstein 5100 Front 0-2.5", Rear 0-1" Lift Shocks Kit for 99-10 Chevy Silverado 1500HD 2500 2500HD 3500 3500HD 2WD / 4WD 2000 2001 2002 2003 2004 2005 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EXJDLAE/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_zF7eCb9KAXQ3Q

Posted

The Ranchos seem to have a decent compromise on the compression damning, for soaking up bumps, but as others have noted, it is the rebound damping that is too little, so it rebounds fast and gives that "sproingy" feeling when you go over a speed bump.  When I hit a speed bump at a decent speed it does an ok job of soaking up the hit, but then the shocks, especially the rear, spring back too fast and causes the rear to hop.  Suspension that is properly dialed in will soak up movement in BOTH directions, not just the initial hit and downward stroke.

The upward or rebound stroke is where the stock Rancho shocks seem to really fall short.

Posted

When I replace my Ranchos I was able to compress two of the shocks with one hand on and they wouldn't even rebound one of them is still compressed in a box for trash and it still has never rebounded yet. So you can imagine the difference in my ride quality with  new bilstein's

Posted
27 minutes ago, 2kwik4u said:

Thanks for the info on the shocks. 

 

I can't remember the tire size on the Yukon. They were stock size as best as I can tell. I also moved to a 17in rim from a 16in rim at the same time. That might also have contributed to the increased stiffness, hadn't thought about that until now. I'll have to check the axle ratings and the tire ratings to see where I land on a set of P tires. I do very little off-roading around sharp rocks. Lots of gravel and mud trails around a friends farm, and then the wet boat ramps dictated the 4wd.

I've put tires too wide for the wheel on my GTO before and it made it a bit squirmy on the highway. You could also look for p rated tires that are XL for extra load they'll be a little bit stiffer than a p but not like an LT tire.  

 

What wheels do you have?

Posted
16 minutes ago, Yondu said:

I've put tires too wide for the wheel on my GTO before and it made it a bit squirmy on the highway. You could also look for p rated tires that are XL for extra load they'll be a little bit stiffer than a p but not like an LT tire.  

 

What wheels do you have?

Running the factory 10-spoke 20" wheels that came on it.

 

Here's a pic from the day I bought it. Not a great picture, but the only one I have on my office PC.

2015GMCSierra.jpg

Posted
40 minutes ago, KJS Sullivan said:

When I replace my Ranchos I was able to compress two of the shocks with one hand on and they wouldn't even rebound one of them is still compressed in a box for trash and it still has never rebounded yet. So you can imagine the difference in my ride quality with  new bilstein's

How old were they when you replaced? I'm sitting at ~63.5k miles right now and I've put the last 30k miles on the truck with little change in the ride/handling that I can tell. Wondering if mine were busted when I got it?

Posted
40 minutes ago, 2kwik4u said:

How old were they when you replaced? I'm sitting at ~63.5k miles right now and I've put the last 30k miles on the truck with little change in the ride/handling that I can tell. Wondering if mine were busted when I got it?

I had 45,000 miles on them, however I noticed something thousands of miles ago where I was just getting his extra clanking noise up front try to research it and everybody said the crossmember at the calipers check all this as soon as the shocks were replaced no more noise, I believe I had two blown out shocks for about 30,000 miles these Rancho things are garbage. When I was reading my window sticker on my truck they made it sound like the Ranchos were such a wonderful thing that they were doing for us LOL, I am running a 3/4 ton however so I know I'm going to have a much rougher ride but these bilstein's make the ride really really good even for a 3/4 ton truck. So replacing them was probably the best thing I could have done and should have done many thousands of miles ago but I only learned about the shocks on this site

Posted
19 hours ago, KJS Sullivan said:

I had 45,000 miles on them, however I noticed something thousands of miles ago where I was just getting his extra clanking noise up front try to research it and everybody said the crossmember at the calipers check all this as soon as the shocks were replaced no more noise, I believe I had two blown out shocks for about 30,000 miles these Rancho things are garbage. When I was reading my window sticker on my truck they made it sound like the Ranchos were such a wonderful thing that they were doing for us LOL, I am running a 3/4 ton however so I know I'm going to have a much rougher ride but these bilstein's make the ride really really good even for a 3/4 ton truck. So replacing them was probably the best thing I could have done and should have done many thousands of miles ago but I only learned about the shocks on this site

Thanks for the info. Looks like the 5100 are the way I'm going to head. Hoping for a year end blowout sale from somewhere to pick them up from.

 

Anyone have a recommended dealer/shop to purchase from?

Posted
8 hours ago, 2kwik4u said:

Thanks for the info. Looks like the 5100 are the way I'm going to head. Hoping for a year end blowout sale from somewhere to pick them up from.

 

Anyone have a recommended dealer/shop to purchase from?

After upgrading to 275/60r20s last week, I'm hoping for a year end blow out on 5100s as well.  Don't seem to need the extra height, but an inch or so certainly wouldn't hurt, right?

 

Also, totally unrelated to this post, but are you the same 2kwik4u from way back on SSF?

Posted
5 minutes ago, RHStansbury said:

After upgrading to 275/60r20s last week, I'm hoping for a year end blow out on 5100s as well.  Don't seem to need the extra height, but an inch or so certainly wouldn't hurt, right?

 

Also, totally unrelated to this post, but are you the same 2kwik4u from way back on SSF?

I feel like there is a "That's what she said" joke in there somewhere.

 

And yeap, same 2kwik4u from SSF. Still post over there once a month or so. Only about 6 of us left that are actually active though :(

Posted
Thanks for the info. Looks like the 5100 are the way I'm going to head. Hoping for a year end blowout sale from somewhere to pick them up from.
 
Anyone have a recommended dealer/shop to purchase from?



FYI - Autopartswarehouse has the front Bilstein for $75 each (today only), and Amazon has the rears for $62 each. Pretty darn good deal!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 
    • Ahh, sorry about that - I got some bad info. Newdude is correct. That's what I get for working 13 hours straight ... on my "vacation", lol.   Should've checked the files I had instead of the internet.   Anyway ... this is GREAT news, since this would've been an absolute friggin nightmare to get working.   I don't think the lack of VVT is causing this - you've got another issue. Wiring, I'm betting.   I'm telling you right now, your computer isn't bad. If it worked before the swap, it's working now. You need to do some more (better) diagnostics and figure out exactly what you're missing. Did you test every wire directly at the MAF? Have 5V reference? Ground? If you're reading ZERO g/s, your Hz isn't much use - it's going to be the wrong value anyway. The MAF is not working, and you need to find out WHY.   I got this off the net, so VERIFY first: Pin A: Black (BLK) wire, Circuit 552, serves as the Sensor Return (Ground).  Pin B: Tan (TAN) wire, Circuit 472, carries the Intake Air Temperature (IAT) signal.  Pin C: Yellow (YEL) wire, Circuit 492, is the primary MAF Sensor Signal output to the PCM. Pin D: Pink (PNK) wire, Circuit 339 or 539, provides Ignition 1 Voltage (Power).  Pin E: Tan/Black wire, Circuit 552 or similar, often associated with the Intake Air Temperature ground or signal return.  Global-A list: https://postimg.cc/KKJnQC85    
    • Correct....the end user can't reach to Realtruck directly like they can if they purchase a Bak, Undercover, etc...  It has to go through a dealer.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...