Jump to content

2014/2015 Silverado front end swap to 2016


Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi all. I did some looking but didn't see anyone start a post on this topic yet but just wondering if anyone knows if the 2016 Silverado front end can be put on a 2014/2015 Silverado. Looks like hood is the same. Did some looking online but haven't found anything yet. Just wondering if anyone knows and if so what it involves. Thanks.

 

Joshua

Posted

Possibly the entire front end including grill, fascia, and bumper as those three look to all be different. Issue may be there is a gap just beneath the hood at the top of the grill on the '16's which may suggest a different hood, not sure.

Posted

The 2016 has a different hood at least as the middle has the fake scoops, but not sure if the front edge meets up at same points.

Posted

It's just been a few days back but someone posted side by side pics of their 14 or 15 with a 16 model. maybe they will see this thread and add their pics.

Posted

2016s have a different hood. I've been looking to swap front ends as well and for what I've seen you need to replace hood, grill, bumper, and headlights.

Posted

Parts will be available in January.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Headlights may be iffy, someone noted there are wiring changes that go all the way back to the BCM. My contact in GM has told me that the 2016 lights wont swap over to the 2014/15 trucks for hardware and software reasons.

Posted

It's just been a few days back but someone posted side by side pics of their 14 or 15 with a 16 model. maybe they will see this thread and add their pics.

And that would be me... here you go

post-145646-0-21783200-1447994687_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-06376200-1447994874_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-21783200-1447994687_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-06376200-1447994874_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-21783200-1447994687_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-06376200-1447994874_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-21783200-1447994687_thumb.jpg

post-145646-0-06376200-1447994874_thumb.jpg

Posted

Hi all. I did some looking but didn't see anyone start a post on this topic yet but just wondering if anyone knows if the 2016 Silverado front end can be put on a 2014/2015 Silverado. Looks like hood is the same. Did some looking online but haven't found anything yet. Just wondering if anyone knows and if so what it involves. Thanks.

Joshua

Its an easy swap actually... it would involve a trip to your local dealer and just signing a few papers.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • You can install tailpipes that direct the exhaust sideways vs the OEM one that goes straight back. There are several on the market, do you own research. HOWEVER, you need to make sure the Venturi vents are still intact, otherwise it will throw a engine code. There is a sensor somewhere that detects back pressure on the exhaust. And if it doesn't collect the correct metrics, it will throw the truck into limp mode. 
    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...