Jump to content

Battery Replacement

White LTZ

By White LTZ
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 39
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Silverado-Hareek
Silverado-Hareek

I think the issue is you have to remove that structural cross member that attaches to the fender in order to be able to lift the battery out and they don't want to touch anything except for the batter

WhiteMike
WhiteMike

I took my truck to 2 places, Autozone and advance auto part. Auto zone wouldn't touch it b.c of that cross member. It took the tech about 20 min to replace and he had all the tools. Wasn't easy. I was

TJay74
TJay74

I always run the factory battery, once it is dead it gets replaced with an AGM battery at that point.

Posted Images

TenofMe Enthusiast

TenofMe

Posted
Posted
23 hours ago, 2017SierraSLT said:

So I assume you have more than 36k miles?

Just turned 40K.

afireinside7444 Enthusiast

afireinside7444

Posted
Posted

Your all making me parinoid now...... im 42k 2.5 years old and pretty darn cold here in Michigan currently.  Ive had good luck with Walmart (satan mart) battries. Used them in about 8 cars. My momd died at about 2 years and they warrantied it. Its now about 4 years old at this point. They are made by a large battery manufacturer cant remember who now.

  • 2 months later...
duquephart Enthusiast

duquephart

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 11/10/2017 at 10:07 AM, 2Speed said:

Just turned 40K.

 

Day before warranty up: "Your battery is fine."

Day after warranty up: "Your battery needs replacing."

Edited by duquephart
tnchevy Senior Enthusiast

tnchevy

Posted
Posted

Went 11 years and 125k miles on the OEM  battery in my 2002 silvy!  Started getting worried at the 10 year mark and carried one of those booster box's with me and sure enough it crapped out across the road from an Autozone of all places.  My jeep GC is also going to be a pain to change when the time comes, it is under the passenger seat and is about 30% bigger than a regular sized battery.  

Malibu SS Enthusiast

Malibu SS

Posted
Posted

I've had good luck with Duracell batteries from "Batteries + Bulbs ".  Mine is located in Ann Arbor Michigan.  They will change your battery at the store.

duquephart Enthusiast

duquephart

Posted
Posted

There must, somewhere, be a procedure written up. At the dealer this would be passed off to the bottom rung guy when he ran out of oil changes to do. He must have something to print out and follow. Anyone have access to shop manual pages for those of us who would appreciate Elmer Fudd instructions??

BigBadSierra Senior Enthusiast

BigBadSierra

Posted
Posted
On 8/12/2016 at 8:47 AM, Silverado-Hareek said:

I think the issue is you have to remove that structural cross member that attaches to the fender in order to be able to lift the battery out and they don't want to touch anything except for the battery itself. You know because out of all of that engine bay space, GM had to shove the battery in a tight corner like that probably to drive business to dealers which seems to be the logic behind most of the things they do. Your friend, as long has he has a good socket wrench set, should be able to install the battery himself just fine.

They have found issues with the safety systems failing in front end collisions.  GM has relocated the batteries in allot of their vehicles.  It took me two days of looking to find the battery in the 2010 Traverse I bought. It was behind the passenger seat in the floor.  I know they did this to the trucks for the same reason due to air bag failures.  It's safer but as with most of these fixes it's a pain to deal with.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted
23 minutes ago, BigBadSierra said:

They have found issues with the safety systems failing in front end collisions.  GM has relocated the batteries in allot of their vehicles.  It took me two days of looking to find the battery in the 2010 Traverse I bought. It was behind the passenger seat in the floor.  I know they did this to the trucks for the same reason due to air bag failures.  It's safer but as with most of these fixes it's a pain to deal with.

Yeah I guess that makes sense.  It's interesting actually that my comment has been resurrected because I just replaced the battery in my 2014 last month.  It took me 45 minutes but it is doable yourself.  The hardest part to deal with is the size of the battery....you can't just lift it and set it in place because the coolant expansion tank is in the way.  You have to turn the batter on it's side, then angle it into the location by inserting it in a direction toward the passenger seat to clear the expansion tank and get it into the hole, then you can rotate the battery back to the upright/vertical position and set it down all the way.  Here's a good YouTube video on it:

 

 

  • Thanks 1
duquephart Enthusiast

duquephart

Posted
Posted
15 minutes ago, Silverado-Hareek said:

Yeah I guess that makes sense.  It's interesting actually that my comment has been resurrected because I just replaced the battery in my 2014 last month.  It took me 45 minutes but it is doable yourself.  The hardest part to deal with is the size of the battery....you can't just lift it and set it in place because the coolant expansion tank is in the way.  You have to turn the batter on it's side, then angle it into the location by inserting it in a direction toward the passenger seat to clear the expansion tank and get it into the hole, then you can rotate the battery back to the upright/vertical position and set it down all the way.  Here's a good YouTube video on it:

 

 

 

How about getting that "distribution block/cap" undone? What's the trick to that?

Spurshot Senior Enthusiast

Spurshot

Posted
Posted (edited)
12 hours ago, duquephart said:

 

How about getting that "distribution block/cap" undone? What's the trick to that?

It's a simple job.  Really not much more difficult than any other modern car.  The diagonal brace is a couple bolts.  Under the positive "cap/block" (red plastic doohickey) is a simple terminal.   The plastic block snaps onto the battery top.

Edited by Spurshot
Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 1/30/2018 at 9:25 AM, duquephart said:

 

How about getting that "distribution block/cap" undone? What's the trick to that?

 

On 1/30/2018 at 10:16 PM, Spurshot said:

It's a simple job.  Really not much more difficult than any other modern car.  The diagonal brace is a couple bolts.  Under the positive "cap/block" (red plastic doohickey) is a simple terminal.   The plastic block snaps onto the battery top.

Correct the metal cross bars, whatever you want to call them, come out with the removal of 4 bolts.....1 bolt at the fender, 1 bolt near the windshield, 1  bolt where the two crossbars intersect, and 1 bolt at the bottom of the vertical metal bar near the bottom of the battery.

 

As for that black box that sits on top of the battery, I didn't do anything with that like the guy in the video did as far as removing cables that attach within the box.  I simply disconnected the black negative cable, and then disconnected the main red terminal cable and the block box on top went with it.  The black box sort of clips into place on top of the battery...it's pretty simple to remove and put back.  You'll see what I'm talking about when you go to do it.  Just remember to remove the metal cross bars first, and then you can disconnect the battery cables and push them out of the way.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
  • 4 weeks later...
djthumper Enthusiast

djthumper

Posted
Posted

Man! I just got finished replacing my battery with a Napa AGM. Who would have thought you would have to play twister with a battery of that size to get that swapped out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Coastie05
      Casey from the Texas Hill Country

      By Coastie05 · Posted

      Enjoy the new truck, it’s a beauty. I’m glad you’re keeping the OBS, I love those old trucks. 
    • chris21
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By chris21 · Posted

      With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...