Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First of all, how do you search the forums? I can't see an option to do so.

 

Now, on to my topic of concern.

 

My truck (2014 GMC Sierra SLT) was built in February of 2014, purchased by an owner who had it for a couple months and decided he wanted a diesel truck instead. Basically he took his truck and reordered the same truck but a 3/4 ton with diesel and traded this one in. I purchased it in July of 2014 with only 5,000 miles on it. Got a pretty good deal too. I love everything about this truck but the payment...

 

And the frame now...

 

When I checked out the truck before purchasing I even got underneath and checked out the undercarriage. Still looked clean and new. When I was signing the papers they offered me an appearance warranty which would cover paint issues, damage to the interior, rust, etc. They offered me a good deal on that so I bit on that as well. Part of that package included an undercoating and protective spray coating of the frame and suspension components. Said it would significantly delay the onset of your typical surface rust on the frame.

 

Check out these pics:

 

CyQnXag.jpg

nr509DD.jpg

yCQG3DP.jpg

O353s8s.jpg

m6qEPVU.jpg

wNB9zEY.jpg

q20k7DM.jpg

MYVHOvj.jpg

1HP9b3P.jpg

1l98IiZ.jpg

mZ85L7F.jpg

o3AbVV5.jpg

(this should be the maximum amount of rust visible after only three years and that on an untreated frame...

RBFlDb4.jpg

vYb2BSE.jpg

9WZ1SWN.jpg

pQGA4G9.jpg

JBO5o0e.jpg

ZjoFkTo.jpg

HPN8euK.jpg

Qmh2XbQ.jpg

7DDs4rA.jpg

6jrsgni.jpg

 

 

Am I wrong to expect less rust, especially after a protectant has been sprayed over the metal? How good can 'high-strength steel' be if it rusts this much after only three years?

This vehicle has never been submerged in water much less salt water, and during my ownership hasn't even been driven that much on salty streets in the winter.

 

I working with the company that warranties the treatment and with the dealer but I'm fearful that their 'fix' will be just just scrape off the loose protectant and rust scale and just reapply the coating over the leftover rust.

 

Anyone else having this issue or is it just my truck?

Posted

They all rust here and there. Mine did. Yours has more than mine, but it's just surface rust. It's not affecting the integrity of the structure. Even if you did nothing about it, it would take a very long time to compromise structure. That being said, what I did was go over the rust with a wire brush and got all the loose flakes off. I then painted it with Permatex rust converter. Once that dried for about 24 hours, I applied Daubert Nox Rust, which is the factory wax coating. It looks brand new.

 

One question in your situation is what product did they spray on your frame. Some of the products degrade the factory wax protective coating and actually leave your frame exposed.

  • Like 1
Posted

One question in your situation is what product did they spray on your frame. Some of the products degrade the factory wax protective coating and actually leave your frame exposed.

This was my first thought as well.. wondering if whatever undercoating they applied completely counteracted the factory wax coating?

  • Like 1
Posted

Even if you did nothing about it, it would take a very long time to compromise structure.

People are still driving trucks built in the 1990s (me) more holes than swiss cheese and the frame hasn't cracked otherwise broken yet.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

I appears you paid for something they didn't do. There should be some trace of the protectant somewhere. I'm not seeing it.

What he said ^^^

 

Not sure about the US, but in parts of Canada they use a thick tar like substance to undercoat with when you buy that option at the dealer. None of that is present in your pics. It looks like it's just the original frame wax.

Edited by 3beejay3
  • Like 2
Posted

That's just down right sad! Not sure the build date on mine, gotta look. But I noticed a few on like weld areas of the frame, and it's a 2015.

Posted

 

I {am} working with the company that warranties the treatment and with the dealer but I'm fearful that their 'fix' will be just just scrape off the loose protectant and rust scale and just reapply the coating over the leftover rust.

 

Anyone else having this issue or is it just my truck?

It sounds like you are on top of the situation and need to see the preparation done prior to them reapplying any coating. Keep pictures like you have here of the process. I have owned many trucks and lived in areas with pretty harsh winters and have not seen this type of rust pattern on the oldest of my trucks. If I was in your position, I would take these pictures and a copy of the "appearance warranty" for preliminary legal advice. Your truck is safe and you will probably not own it long enough for rust to be a problem. However, as it is, your chances of a good price at sale time are pretty slim!

Posted

I know gm uses that crappy wax coating, but at least give us an option when ordering a new truck to have the frame powder coated for an extra grand or something. I'd pay it.

  • Like 1
Posted

It looks like they actually stripped the wax coating off the frame that came from the factory. I don't know if all trucks came with it, but it doesn't look like they did anything.

Posted

Some 2013 and 2014 frames were noted for the wax coating peeling right off, leaving the bare steel surface very vulnerable.

Posted (edited)

I know gm uses that crappy wax coating, but at least give us an option when ordering a new truck to have the frame powder coated for an extra grand or something. I'd pay it.

Personally, I'd prefer it to be galvanized or something. I'd at least like the option here in the rust belt and would pay a reasonable amount for it.

Edited by 3beejay3
Posted

Looks untreated and normal for that, just my opinion. I get mine sprayed inside the body and the underside from krown rustproofing. No sure what is available in the states but it takes care of it up here.

Posted

My 2014 is at the dealer getting this repaired right now. There is a repair bulletin on this although I had to call 8 different dealers to get one to actually make the repair. TSB# 14002A or #pI0564H should be the correct bulletin to reference

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,730
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    liniosbuinios
    Newest Member
    liniosbuinios
    Joined
  • Who's Online   6 Members, 1 Anonymous, 789 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Did the KYBs keep it the same height in the front? I was concerned that pre-assembled assembly would raise it up an inch to standard non-z60 height.. I guess which it would make the rake 1 inch instead of 2 inches.
    • Thank you for keeping the train on the tracks and for a thoughtful engagement. I enjoyed the reflection on a previous stance to refine and improve your position. I like that inquisitive flexibility about you Atlas.    No the process isn't sterile. Hundreds, perhaps thousands of miles of piping, vessels, pumps. Chevron, the people I worked for, were keenly aware that there is a market for what is known as their "ISOCLEAN" line of lubricants. These are lubricants that are the same as those sold bulk that are further processed by filtration to a level your particular application demands. They will filter and package and provide lab documentation as required. Do not kid yourself. Every gallon of oil that goes into a Chevron Turbine, reciprocating compressor, generator is prefiltered and tested before being charged. Lest wise it was when I was there in the plants I worked in.    There are requirements set by manufactures for the cleanliness of the oils used in their equipment. OTR such as CUMMINS has standards shared with customers on this. Commercial interest selling to Ma and Pa do, but don't share that information. Not even upon request but internally, they do exist.    The GM study sited, (Graph from Machinery Lubrication in previous post) only shows "relative" importance.  I find that fascinating. By constructing the graph like this they admit there are dozens of factors in engine life and via scientific method determined the effect of 'relative cleanliness' on engine life not in miles but in 'FACTORS'. This allows a certain amount of reverse engineering does it not?   They even provided some touchstones. Beta 75 as a reference point. Wonderful stuff!!   Smaller blenders CAN and some DO take the time and effort to do better than a refinery or large bulk blender, like Warren Oil, in improving the "in the can" cleanliness. No I don't have a list but testing could generate that information.    Again, but one of several levers we can pull to improve engine life. The simplest is keeping a clean work station while doing your own oil changes.     
    • Thank you. I'll give it a try 
    • I just spent the last 45K miles doing samples every oil change over more than a full year to get the data for seasons and break-in to broke in.    I found the same thing to be true. Something was always teetering on done or had stepped off the cliff long before the OLM was DOA. In fact, I found about a thousand mile difference between summer and winter. That is during the winter half the OLM was STILL too long. Even the severe schedule was to long in the winter.   Now having done the work I can say I was NOT DISAPOINTED. I saw nothing I didn't already know. Nothing my father hadn't already demonstrated in his 2K OCI's pushing dated iron on dated oils and weak filters to mileages well beyond 300K.   Building on his work through use of Lab testing it wasn't hard to find the correlation between 'sight/feel/odor, the things dad relied on, and test results. Use of current viscosity stable chemistries & filters has pushed that marker for my motors out to 3K summer, 4K winter.    So the early lies were 3K on conventional oil and the lie upon the lie was 7K+. turns out to be off by a factor of two.    So... it is true that modern chemistry has doubled the useful oil life. But the base milage that came from was off by double. It's how good lies work. Partly true, sometimes mostly true so that your meter isn't set off. It also means that non-shear-stable shelf oils are only now as good as the old oils were in their best case scenario.    So the question now is how do we improve on that? Thus the question into cleanliness among the other items listed in the post quoted below.    If this bores you, feel free not to participate.       
    • Is it though?  Like LTZ, not a high take rate.  Current Sierra has AT4, Denali and Elevation as its main bread winners.  Each trim accounting for 25-35% of sales for Sierra.  SLT makes up about 10-15% at best.        Like others have predicted here for GMC, it will be:   - Pro (equal to WT Chevy)   - Elevation (replaces SLE and SLT)   - AT4 (and X)   - Denali (and Ultimate).  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...