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Adjust your headlights down


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If you have a levelled 16-18 with the HID/LED or you added them to your projector lights (reflector light guys aren't exlcuded, it includes you and I) adjust your headlights down. Way to often (this also goes to Ford and other trucks but they aren't on this forum) I get blinded by leveled trucks and their stock lights not lowered. Last night I had some very bright lights in my mirror on the highway for 5 minutes, thought it was someone with their brights on but once it past it was a 16-18 Silverado LTZ with an obvious front level. If I am being blinded in my truck I can only imagine how cars and CUVs are feeling. Don't be the ****, if you level your truck adjust your headlights down, they need it.

 

How many of you actually do it? I am guessing not that many. Before anyone says they are fine and not getting flashed after a level and not adjusting them from stock, they are lying out their tooth. They are all set the same from the factory, you raise your front end 2-2.5 inches (even with an added inch block in back it still is 1-1.5 more inches) that is a pretty large raise in headlight aiming from stock. This also goes for lifted guys too, you are 6+ inches higher than stock...

 

So this is a public service announcement, trun your headlights down. Not only is it annoying it can be dangerous for those with eye issues, elders or those who wear glasses...

 

Tyler

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I just did this on my 18 sierra that the dealer leveled. I couldn't understand why my highbeams seemed to be useless, then I realized that the headlights hadn't been adjusted. 1 1/2 turns is what I used and seems to be about perfect, and now my highbeams actually work properly!

 

Edit: level was a 2.5 front and 1" rear I believe, never did get what kit the dealer used.

Edited by moab11
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I completely agree with the sentiment of this thread and I'll admit I was guilty of this for a couple months after getting my truck lifted.  One thing that surprised me when I was adjusting my headlights was how hard it was to find a level surface (that I could drive on) next to a wall.  My driveway is not level and most parking lots have some amount of gradient for drainage.

 

That said, once you find a place to make the adjustments, the process is painfully simple.  There's no excuse not to do it.  Even a completely stock truck won't stay perfectly aligned indefinitely.

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On 12/31/2017 at 7:40 AM, Largely Unknown said:

Amxguy has a point, it's easy enough to do, besides, you want to see the road, not so much the trees.  

 

As part of your public service announcement, do you have a suggestion as to how many turns are needed to the adjustment screw? 

Now THAT was funny!

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I did mine properly against a wall at 25ft with measuring them, havent been flashed at all after the front level. When im behind  a normal sedan at a light, my cut off is right at the trunk lid so its all good.

 

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Common problem with trucks carrying a load that exceeds the capacity of the leaf springs, in particular with the 1500 and 2500 trucks. Adding SuperSprings or something similar makes a huge improvement in handling and where the headlights point. This applies only to those who actually use their pickups as trucks. One reason I prefer trucks with leaf instead of coil springs.

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  • 2 months later...

Just wanted to circle back and update after my level, in order to share what happened to my headlights.  I had mine leveled today (rough country 2", done at the dealer).  Over the weekend, before getting it leveled, I marked my garage wall with blue tape where the headlights (low and high beam) and fog lights were hitting, at a distance at about 20'.  

 

After the level today, I checked the lights and behold - they were much higher.  It took four full turns to adjust them back to the same spot on the wall.  The fog lights were also about a foot higher on the wall.  I looked underneath the front and found the adjustment screws for the fogs, and brought them back down.

 

I realize this may not be a real-world test, compared to the street, which I'll check later and tweak if necessary.  I normally check the high beams, which should be hitting the street signs way down the road.  As one post mentions above, when the high beams don't seem right, its a good indication the headlight adjustment is AFU.  

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Just wanted to circle back and update after my level, in order to share what happened to my headlights.  I had mine leveled today (rough country 2", done at the dealer).  Over the weekend, before getting it leveled, I marked my garage wall with blue tape where the headlights (low and high beam) and fog lights were hitting, at a distance at about 20'.  
 
After the level today, I checked the lights and behold - they were much higher.  It took four full turns to adjust them back to the same spot on the wall.  The fog lights were also about a foot higher on the wall.  I looked underneath the front and found the adjustment screws for the fogs, and brought them back down.
 
I realize this may not be a real-world test, compared to the street, which I'll check later and tweak if necessary.  I normally check the high beams, which should be hitting the street signs way down the road.  As one post mentions above, when the high beams don't seem right, its a good indication the headlight adjustment is AFU.  
Where are the adjustment screws for the fogs? Are they difficult to get to?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

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Just wanted to circle back and update after my level, in order to share what happened to my headlights.  I had mine leveled today (rough country 2", done at the dealer).  Over the weekend, before getting it leveled, I marked my garage wall with blue tape where the headlights (low and high beam) and fog lights were hitting, at a distance at about 20'.  
 
After the level today, I checked the lights and behold - they were much higher.  It took four full turns to adjust them back to the same spot on the wall.  The fog lights were also about a foot higher on the wall.  I looked underneath the front and found the adjustment screws for the fogs, and brought them back down.
 
I realize this may not be a real-world test, compared to the street, which I'll check later and tweak if necessary.  I normally check the high beams, which should be hitting the street signs way down the road.  As one post mentions above, when the high beams don't seem right, its a good indication the headlight adjustment is AFU.  
Largely, what did your dealer charge to do your lift...just curious as I am waiting on bid bid to lower my back end with 2 inch drop shackles.

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11 hours ago, SirenRed16 said:

Where are the adjustment screws for the fogs? Are they difficult to get to?

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If you look under the front corner, it's the recessed plastic screw that requires a phillips head screwdriver.  I adjusted mine down, because I was helped by the fogs in seeing the curbs in my neighborhood when making turns and wanted to keep that working for me.  I don't think they pose much of a threat to oncoming traffic, so it's probably personal preference.  At the risk of providing TMI, I'm sure you'all are aware that the fogs are useful when you want to prevent your intellibeam automatic high beams from activating - pressing the fog light switch cancels the auto high beams until you turn it off again.  This feature is handy for me when cruising around my area in the evening, because of cars approaching intersections in front of me, bicyclists, dog walkers, etc.  It keeps me from frantically moving the high beam level trying to switch to low beam.  The automatic high beams are as merciless as they are useful, and will only go back to low beam automatically when there is an approaching or departing vehicle in front.  

 

IMG_4396.thumb.JPG.5057bd2dca17ee9926252e6433ad4f40.JPG

 

7 hours ago, GMC_SD_Ult_16 said:

Largely, what did your dealer charge to do your lift...just curious as I am waiting on bid bid to lower my back end with 2 inch drop shackles.

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$394.58 out the door with alignment, WIbbs GMC in Pensacola.    

 

 

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That was for everything, parts/labor/tax.  The dealer keeps the kit in stock, and told me they do them "all the time".  

 

I haggled a little, they added about $20 in "shop charges", so they took that back off and also gave me a 5% mil discount with my retired ID.  

 

Honestly, I don't think it would be worth more than $400,  at least not to me.   

 

 

IMG_2050.JPG

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