Jump to content

issue with melted housing box for Side Blind Zone Alert.

love3guys

By love3guys
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

love3guys New Member

love3guys

Posted
Posted

First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post.  This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. 

 

We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it.  A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off.  Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days.  I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe.  Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors.  The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily.   This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. 

 

Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue?  Is this a wide spread issue?  Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps?   

 

Thanks!

qwank Senior Enthusiast

qwank

Posted
Posted

I usually see this happen after someone bumps the bumper and the bracket for the module breaks off. If it was glued on it's already been repaired once.  

  • Like 1
Tahoe02 Enthusiast

Tahoe02

Posted
Posted

Contact GMC customer service. The number should be in your owners manual or on line manual if you don't have a hard copy. A quick Google search should also provide the number. With all the electronics on these vehicles I would suggest an extended warranty and I would purchase from an on line Dealer who will have better pricing. Try to stay with the GMEPP warranty. Sounds like the Dealer is screwing you on labor. Good luck.

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted
12 hours ago, qwank said:

I usually see this happen after someone bumps the bumper and the bracket for the module breaks off. If it was glued on it's already been repaired once.  

Ditto. Almost always accident related or poor body shop repair.

  • Like 1
  • 4 months later...
Joe74589 New Member

Joe74589

Posted
Posted

Hi. I came on this forum for something else but I noticed your post regarding the melted housing box. I have a 16 suburban but with the same exact issue - i don't have the blind spot sensor but it is the connecting box to the rear parking sensors. I have no idea how it was affixed to begin with...I think it was just dangling there underneath the plastic, and finally I had a look one day and the thing had pretty much been melted to smithereens...so yeah, I've had the same problem.

 

I can't even tell how it was held in in the first place - there is nothing to attach it to.I've tried looking this part up online but can't find it anywhere. All it does is control the parking sensor, which I don't really need anyway and I'm sure not shelling out to get that fixed...

  • 7 months later...
BASGMC New Member

BASGMC

Posted
Posted
On 10/31/2018 at 2:30 PM, love3guys said:

First post here and I wasn't quite sure where to post.  This isn't really troubleshooting because we know what is wrong, I'm mainly wanting to know if there are large scale issues regarding this and how do we get in touch with GMC about it as our mechanic isn't much help at this point other than charging $1100 to fix it. 

 

We bought a used 2015 GMC Yukon last year with 20k miles on it.  A month ago, the Side Blind Zone alert on the side mirrors came on and have stayed on permanently, even when the car is turned off.  Because of that, it drains our battery when the car is parked longer than 2-3 days.  I took it into the shop a couple of days ago and we find out that the box that houses the sensors, in the right rear quarter panel, had become detached and was dangling close to the exhaust pipe.  Because of this, it totally melted the box housing the sensors.  The mechanic tells us that the sensor box is only glued in and can become detached easily.   This is costing us $1100 to fix because the sensor is over $300, and then labor for the past 2 days to get it back in place. 

 

Is there a thread in here from others who have had this issue?  Is this a wide spread issue?  Should GMC pay to fix this and if so, what are my next steps?   

 

Thanks!

I have the same issue.  On a 2015 Yukon XL.  Part came unstuck or glued and burned up on the tale pipe. 

  • 8 months later...
Stephen Knott New Member

Stephen Knott

Posted
Posted

I purchased a used 2015 Yukon XL and noticed that the blind spot alert icons in the mirrors were only working intermittently. I found that the bracket for the passenger side radar module inside the right rear bumper corner had broken loose and the module was pointed upward instead of toward the rear bumper corner. The brackets seem to be heat welded in several places into the rear bumper plastic and I guess this one had vibrated loose over time. With some zip ties I was able to secure and align the bracket back into place, more or less, and now both sides are working correctly. The real fix would be to replace the entire rear bumper plastic assembly which I would guess to be well over $1000. 

  • 5 months later...
Jorge69igh New Member

Jorge69igh

Posted
Posted

I know this is old but I have the same issue. I must have purchased your old vehicle (joke). 2015 yukon with right rear  zip tied in place.

 

The message I see on the screen is: Service Side Detection System.

 

I replaced the blind spot sensor in the right rear but am still seeing the service message.

The coupling on the wiring harness is melted some where it was laying on the muffler. I managed to get the it apart but I don't see any problems.

Is there a fuse or something I should be checking?

 

For what it's worth, the left one seems to work as it vibrates the seat and puts arrows on the screen if a vehicle is on the left.

Additionally, the park assist doesn't work either. I was hoping I would find a problem in the melted harness connection to explain all of the issues.

Can someone please provide any ideas as to what to check next?

Is there something I can check with a multimeter?

  • 7 months later...
pbarrett66 New Member

pbarrett66

Posted
Posted

Reading your posts I see I am not the only one with this issue.  I have had the same problem, I noticed the box hanging near/on the exhaust pipe and now have many electrical issues.  Has anyone had any luck getting assistance in paying for the repair?  Sounds like there are many 2015 Yukons/Suburbans with this same issue.  Thanks all,

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • ChristopherDobson
      Vehicle Payments

      By ChristopherDobson · Posted

      Monthly payment is only part of the equation. With today's prices and interest rates, I'd look at the total monthly cost: payment, insurance, registration, fuel, maintenance, and expected repairs. A vehicle that fits comfortably into your budget is usually the better choice than stretching for a higher trim. I've also kept my vehicles longer over the past few years. New cars have gotten expensive enough that driving one for 10+ years, while staying on top of maintenance, often ends up being the most cost-effective approach.
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      10 Ford and Chevy engines proven to reach 300,000 miles   You may note a common 3K OCI on this list of gas motors. I skipped over the diesels. Dh'O. 
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      Thanks newdude!  By the time manual selection is needed, I'm probably too much of a control-freak to depend on the transmission sensing braking to activate automatic downshifting.  I would be anticipating the situation and already be manually downshifting.   This truck replaced a 2004.5 LLY diesel with the Allison 5-speed.  Putting it in T/H made noticeable differences (when the torque converter locked, upshift points, downshift behavior).  On this 2024 gasser with the 10L1000 I haven't been able to detect much, if any, difference.  Ok, I can never tell now when the torque converter locks up.  But I also don't notice differences in shifting.  For downhills, I've probably already manually downshifted by then anyway.  Since it's also more awkward (than the 2004.5) to engage/disengage I don't even bother.  Or maybe it doesn't really matter with just a 3k lb. camper in the bed?   Thanks also for the list of reasons the charging system might select various voltages.  However, what I am seeing doesn't fall into any of those categories.  It very definitely, and very consistently, rises after coasting/braking.  Maybe not immediately, but not very long after coasting/braking.  Very consistently drops voltage when no longer coasting/braking.  It might also be interacting with the camper battery charging (I might disconnect the camper and see if it changes the charging behavior).  I also need to recheck turning on headlights for when I want to force it to charge the camper.   Another JR, in June I converted the camper to LiFePO4.  Since it's not a good idea to try to charge lithiums directly using truck, I installed a Victron Orion XS DC-DC charger (which BTW is AMAZING!!).  Being cheap, I only had to buy that one item (besides the battery, of course) to do the conversion.  The camper OEM 120v battery charger (only 19 years old and works perfectly) and the truck feed the input to the DC-DC charger (not at the same time).  But I didn't want the camper charger feeding back to the truck so I kept the old separator.  I considered replacing the separator with a 30amp diode but that means more work and might add another 1/2 volt drop.  One thing that surprised me was the voltage drop over the long 10awg wire run, so I can only charge smoothly at 8 amps (because the DC-DC charger is completely configurable).  Another reason I don't want an added voltage drop with the diode.  I might also be a little lazy but all this work is being done under the sink with a small cabinet opening.    
    • davester
      cam upgrade in CA

      By davester · Posted

      apparently CA smog is (or at least was)  checking that the vehicle is using the oem and/or a ca smog approved tune, so I expect you'll fail inspection doing it.
    • davester
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By davester · Posted

      yes, leaking exhaust will mess up o2 sensor readings, which in turn messes up fuel trims.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...