Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
On 4/6/2020 at 11:12 PM, 19TrailBoss said:

So in the process of replacing my headliner because of water staining from the rear window leak, I now have a leak from my front window... Apparently the front windshield had to be removed to replace the headliner. Oh, and my rear window is leaking AGAIN!!! My dealership has tried to reseal the original window, then the entire rear window was replaced, then the new rear window was resealed, and now I've discovered the leak yet again. I'll be calling back my Chevy corporate rep tomorrow, and possibly a SC lemon law lawyer depending on how the conversation with Chevy goes...74c0daecf705bbc99c6a290a05c065a3.jpg

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

Why would they have to remove the windshield to replace the headliner? That's like trying to pull a tooth by reaching through your rectum. On a Silverado/Sierra or like on my old Avalanches it is done by removing the rear window, not the windshield as has to done with a sedan.

 

And evidently from the recurrent leak the rear window should have been removed for a proper repair and headliner installed through the rear access. And just a thought...a sunroof?.......if so may be a blocked drain tube in the "A" pillar which is where that leak would show up.........pop the threshold trim plate a windshield leak would show up as a soaked jute carpet backing and water in the wiring loom channel underneath.

Posted

Great info Thomcat.... When I brought mine in for the rear window they discovered the leak in the front.  The carpet was wet under the mat.  They figured out that when the truck was built, the sunroof drain line wasn't properly connected and it was draining on the floor similar to that picture.  Worth a shot...

Posted
12 hours ago, Thomcat said:

Why would they have to remove the windshield to replace the headliner? That's like trying to pull a tooth by reaching through your rectum. On a Silverado/Sierra or like on my old Avalanches it is done by removing the rear window, not the windshield as has to done with a sedan.

 

And evidently from the recurrent leak the rear window should have been removed for a proper repair and headliner installed through the rear access. And just a thought...a sunroof?.......if so may be a blocked drain tube in the "A" pillar which is where that leak would show up.........pop the threshold trim plate a windshield leak would show up as a soaked jute carpet backing and water in the wiring loom channel underneath.

It’s just the way it is, the headliner doesn’t fold and the only way to get it out and a new one in is to remove the windshield. 

Posted

I have a 2019 RST with the same issue. I will be bring it back in for the same issue for the 3rd time. First time they tried to bandaid it when I was told it was being replaced ( siliconing or butyl from the outside) ?‍♂️. Second time I was assured that they would be actually be replacing the window. Third time all parties were irate. Dealership, body shop, window shop. Long process seeing as the headliner and cab spoiler need to be removed to access the window. Yesterday when I took it in for them to check for the third time and I brought it into the shop so they could hit it with the wand with the dealership and mechanic present so they could see and the mechanic said he thinks it's actually coming from the cab spoiler. Must not be sealed properly but it comes in at such a weird spot. Driver's side top right hand corner of the rear window. It comes in from behind the read window rail corner. Completely dry if you run your finger through the track but where it attaches to the window it makes a slow stream inside. Mechanic said I was lucky because one guy had it flood into the cab and destroyed his head liner. Let them know it could be the cab spoiler so you guys dont have the same headache IV had driving a loner for over a week total. 

Posted
On 4/9/2020 at 5:17 AM, Thomcat said:

Why would they have to remove the windshield to replace the headliner? That's like trying to pull a tooth by reaching through your rectum. On a Silverado/Sierra or like on my old Avalanches it is done by removing the rear window, not the windshield as has to done with a sedan.

 

And evidently from the recurrent leak the rear window should have been removed for a proper repair and headliner installed through the rear access. And just a thought...a sunroof?.......if so may be a blocked drain tube in the "A" pillar which is where that leak would show up.........pop the threshold trim plate a windshield leak would show up as a soaked jute carpet backing and water in the wiring loom channel underneath.

I posted just a little bit earlier, rear window might be the cab spoilers not sealed. In on my 3rd time in for a replacement 

Posted

My rear window is getting replaced now, went in on 4/06, and still no word when it will be done. They are getting a glass specialist to install rear window, but the second they call me to tell me its done, its going to get traded in. Just don't want to deal with it anymore since people are still getting leaking windows even with a replacement. I drive too many miles and will be out of warranty very soon and don't want to be stuck paying out of pocket later down the road.

Posted
3 hours ago, Memphis87 said:

My rear window is getting replaced now, went in on 4/06, and still no word when it will be done. They are getting a glass specialist to install rear window, but the second they call me to tell me its done, its going to get traded in. Just don't want to deal with it anymore since people are still getting leaking windows even with a replacement. I drive too many miles and will be out of warranty very soon and don't want to be stuck paying out of pocket later down the road.

What will you trade it for? 

Posted

You really want to trade it in now?  They know you want to dump it, do they'll lowball you, and there's a ever decreasing selection of vehicles to choose from to replace it...

  • Like 1
Posted
You really want to trade it in now?  They know you want to dump it, do they'll lowball you, and there's a ever decreasing selection of vehicles to choose from to replace it...
He doesn't have to trade it in at that dealer.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
22 hours ago, Cpl_Punishment said:

What will you trade it for? 

the 2020 rams have my eye. Just got to try and stay away from the panoramic sunroof and the air suspension

Posted
22 hours ago, davester said:

+

6/You really want to trade it in now?  They know you want to dump it, do they'll lowball you, and there's a ever decreasing selection of vehicles to choose from to replace it...

yea i wont be staying with gm, looks like ram will be getting my business right now. Its sad to, ive had a chevy for every vehicle since i was 16. But they havent figured out the rear window thing and thats concerning

Posted
the 2020 rams have my eye. Just got to try and stay away from the panoramic sunroof and the air suspension
And the uconnect infotainment... We had it in our 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it was glitchy and would go completely black from time to time.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted
22 minutes ago, 19TrailBoss said:

And the uconnect infotainment... We had it in our 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it was glitchy and would go completely black from time to time.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk
 

I was going to say the same thing.

Posted
yea i wont be staying with gm, looks like ram will be getting my business right now. Its sad to, ive had a chevy for every vehicle since i was 16. But they havent figured out the rear window thing and thats concerning

What about one with a solid rear window since it seems like there’s no issues


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted
And the uconnect infotainment... We had it in our 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee and it was glitchy and would go completely black from time to time.

Sent from my SM-G988U using Tapatalk

I've had tons of problems with the gm one in my sierra, goes black, changes volume, plays multiple sources at the same time and wont let me change anything. There are problems with uconnect for sure, but probably not any worse than the gm/chevy. Honestly I think its just luck if you get one from either company that actually works right.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.3k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,716
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    BDS my HD
    Newest Member
    BDS my HD
    Joined
  • Who's Online   2 Members, 0 Anonymous, 617 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...