Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
22 hours ago, hotrodz37 said:


Mind sharing what dealer it was for those that might be in your area?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Burn's Chevrolet in Rock Hill, SC

Posted (edited)

Add me to the list! Rear window seal has a kink in it. Still love my truck. Going to the service desk first thing in the morning. Interior is still fine no smell, nothing is wet, but with a running hose you can make it leak easily. 2020 trail boss lt bought in april 2020 dont know the build date yet.

 

15885702905063473100484328586635.jpg

15885703564888280355289333581918.jpg

15885703781835465769644095599900.jpg

Edited by abraham Lincoln
Add more info
Posted

Look at your door jamb, you'll find the build date there.

Posted (edited)

Well it's been about 2 weeks and 3 heavy rainstorms with the truck after they performed the tsb and happy to say no leaks. The truck was at the dealership for about 12 days, the one time use bolts that hold the rear spoiler on were nowhere to be found. The had them shipped in from 2 different dealerships across the country. They did a clean job, but said 1-3 out of 10 that they do seem to start leaking again. I guess will see.. 

Edited by anthony2558
Posted

Well today is 6 months since i dropped off my truck 2019 H/C 6.2 at a local dealership for this rear window problem,  not the dealership where i bought it from because that is 2 hours away from me.  The window leak apparently  was fixed but the truck smells like a mold pit. I have been in 2 loaner trucks since November 8th The dealership was bought  out in December and that dealership basically washed there hands of it .  So about 3 months ago, end of February i got my dealership where i bought it from involved,   they have been great to my family and me over the years bought many vehicles through them.  They got there district manager involved and they offered me a full buy back on my truck,  then covid 19 hit,  the buy back division is furloughed and are unable to work from home and i cannot get a new truck until the buy back division calls me and gets me in there system,  so my dealership where i bought it from is a small dealership,   typically they only sell 2 or 3 high countrys a year.  So they dont have any on there lot,  so i found a  few at a different dealership which is under the jurisdiction of the district manager also, and that this dealership cant do deal swaps now because of the covid 19,  the buy back division needs a vin # on a new truck just to put me in the q, when they get back up and going.  Problem is right now and my biggest fear is that dealership in the northeast are running out of 6.2 H/C's my dealership will go up to 250 miles to get one for me.  I am worry that i wont find a truck and have to order one which takes about 90 days to get once they are making trucks again.  Oh i forgot to mention im still making my payments for my truck thats been at the dealership for 6 months,  which the district manager says they will reimburse me toward my new truck,  i also want to take advantage of the incentives tight now plus the company i work for has a discount too.  Whole time its been very frustrating.   

  • Sad 1
Posted
27 minutes ago, Vtur said:

Well today is 6 months since i dropped off my truck 2019 H/C 6.2 at a local dealership for this rear window problem,  not the dealership where i bought it from because that is 2 hours away from me.  The window leak apparently  was fixed but the truck smells like a mold pit. I have been in 2 loaner trucks since November 8th The dealership was bought  out in December and that dealership basically washed there hands of it .  So about 3 months ago, end of February i got my dealership where i bought it from involved,   they have been great to my family and me over the years bought many vehicles through them.  They got there district manager involved and they offered me a full buy back on my truck,  then covid 19 hit,  the buy back division is furloughed and are unable to work from home and i cannot get a new truck until the buy back division calls me and gets me in there system,  so my dealership where i bought it from is a small dealership,   typically they only sell 2 or 3 high countrys a year.  So they dont have any on there lot,  so i found a  few at a different dealership which is under the jurisdiction of the district manager also, and that this dealership cant do deal swaps now because of the covid 19,  the buy back division needs a vin # on a new truck just to put me in the q, when they get back up and going.  Problem is right now and my biggest fear is that dealership in the northeast are running out of 6.2 H/C's my dealership will go up to 250 miles to get one for me.  I am worry that i wont find a truck and have to order one which takes about 90 days to get once they are making trucks again.  Oh i forgot to mention im still making my payments for my truck thats been at the dealership for 6 months,  which the district manager says they will reimburse me toward my new truck,  i also want to take advantage of the incentives tight now plus the company i work for has a discount too.  Whole time its been very frustrating.   

What state are you in? I have had a similar experience, and reached a district manger. 3 months in the shop for this leak, still not fixed plus 10 other unrelated repairs in 7 months of ownership. Its been a nightmare. However, the district manger has offered a trade credit, but says a buyback is not even an option in my case. May be related to state lemon laws

Posted
12 minutes ago, bobboberton1 said:

What state are you in? I have had a similar experience, and reached a district manger. 3 months in the shop for this leak, still not fixed plus 10 other unrelated repairs in 7 months of ownership. Its been a nightmare. However, the district manger has offered a trade credit, but says a buyback is not even an option in my case. May be related to state lemon laws

 

I am in new york state.   

Posted (edited)

Cracks all over the frame inside and out, posted the pics so you all know what to look for. They are going to replace my rear window. No e.t.a as of today may 11th 2020. 

 

all under warranty no damage to anything headliner, seats, they are all good. Sorry to the guys having lousy customer service, I've known my service/body shop dept for years. They tried to reseal it first but the guy they put on the job, just squirted some rtv silicone in there, literally didnt even clean the excess. I did the job myself later that day, followed the tsb, my service manager said it wouldnt void my warranty and gave me a tube of the recommended silicone, They didnt even bother to follow the tsb. And i wasnt gonna let them ruin it even more, if you want something done right you have to do it yourself, But you cant blame a whole shop because of one moron. I stopped the leak for now, now just waiting on the replacement window.

Screenshot_20200513-014052_Video Player.jpg

Screenshot_20200513-014641_Video Player.jpg

Screenshot_20200513-020015_Video Player.jpg

Edited by abraham Lincoln
Add more info
Posted (edited)

HOLY CRAP!!!!!!!!

 

I wouldnt have taken possession of that .  No freakin way.  

 

M3 and the dealer GM and service manager would be having an in person meeting right on the spot.

Edited by steve841
Posted
Cracks all over the frame inside and out, posted the pics so you all know what to look for. They are going to replace my rear window. No e.t.a as of today may 11th 2020. 
 
all under warranty no damage to anything headliner, seats, they are all good. Sorry to the guys having lousy customer service, I've known my service/body shop dept for years. They tried to reseal it first but the guy they put on the job, just squirted some rtv silicone in there, literally didnt even clean the excess. I did the job myself later that day, followed the tsb, my service manager said it wouldnt void my warranty and gave me a tube of the recommended silicone, They didnt even bother to follow the tsb. And i wasnt gonna let them ruin it even more, if you want something done right you have to do it yourself, But you cant blame a whole shop because of one moron. I stopped the leak for now, now just waiting on the replacement window.
1181701909_Screenshot_20200513-014052_VideoPlayer.thumb.jpg.cc99282dc42f33d80e702af0348e9b9d.jpg
1329119313_Screenshot_20200513-014641_VideoPlayer.thumb.jpg.dd4806b0b098e66be48dc3dc78cf22a4.jpg
1036542106_Screenshot_20200513-020015_VideoPlayer.thumb.jpg.1216e4e7a2e3f9b3cea7e035e272c062.jpg

Wow that’s bad. I went through a similar situation, bad caulk job that I got to stop leaking myself. Mine came along with damaged interior panels, paint chips and the sunroof shade no longer working.

Rear window was replaced this past week due to cracks in the frame all damaged panels replaced and feel like I’m whole again. The new tech did a fantastic job and there are actually less rattles in the truck then before which I am thankful for.

Poured all day yesterday and new window is dry - for now.

Fayuo E4 is the replacement and I have heard of people having good luck with those. If it begins to leak, most likely going to fix it myself this go round.




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  • Like 1
Posted

@hotrodz37, Iam glad they patched yours up good and made it right, iam dreading the day i have to take my truck in to get the window replaced. I know they are gonna scratch it up inside and out. iam going to take a video of it, full exterior and interior. And what ever they mess up, they are going to fix and or replace (plastic trim). Iam not going to pay 50,000 dollars for beat up truck. I haven't even made the first payment yet. This sucks man.

Posted

2020 AT4, build date 12/19. No issues yet, but I lose sleep daily over it. I paid a deposit before I found this thread, or I would be driving something else. I am trying to figure out what is cracking. What in this picture is the plastic frame that's giving everyone issues? If what I think is the frame, it looks a little different than others I have seen in photos on this thread. Also, I find it hard to believe headliners are being ruined from water coming in through a small crack; wouldn't that happen due to leak under spoiler? Maybe we have two issues. 

 

Any guidance on what I see and what to look for would be appreciated. Thanks!

20200513_162005.jpg

20200513_161851.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I went to order some PF63 oil filters from an on line GM parts source, and the blue PF63 oil filters seem to be getting phased out. They show the new part number as 19363567, which is a black colored AC Delco Silver product apparently marked PF63A. Some sites show a part number 12693541, which is a black colored AC Delco Ultragard Gold filter marked UPF63R.    I assume the UPF63R is the better one, but I’d be happy if I could just get blue PF63 filters I’ve been using.    Can anyone explain what is going on with the filter part number changes and any actual design changes?  Any other advice on buying OEM filters right now?  Thanks 
    • thanks for coming back and posting what the fix turned out to be.
    • Only TAN I have for the product was at 5K in service miles and it was 2.71
    • If anyone lands here looking for an update - the problem wasnt with the hose, the clamp, etc... I purchased a metal Thermostat housing that just must not of been made to spec. It just wouldn't plug up the hose.. Went back to a plastic cheap housing - leak fixed. Some plumbers tape carefully placed in tandem with a clamp likely would've gotten the job done.   Best,
    • For anyone following, this is what I have deduced from this forum - and my very specific niche case. Please do let me know if you see me going in the wrong direction here. For context, I have a 16 sierra 1500 w/t. Has TC and Cargo light switches. Removed the switch to find the X1 and X2 of the S48A connection populated with wires (x1 10-14, and x2 1-5).   Took photos of the X61A-X5 to find the wires from S48A-X1 land here at their respective pins (10, 11, 17, 23 on the X5). Was hopeful that this means my X51A fuse box has the appropriate pins... No cigar. So now I will be routing wires from the rear of the X61A-X1 to the engine bay and to their respective negative relay triggers. Please see to the diagram. If any has insight as to where the S48A-X2 pins 4 and 5 land that would be awesome.   Will be attempting this sometime shortly and will likely make a youtube video out of it.   Note: please disregard fuse sizes. Main fuse will likely be 25A, all mini bus fuses will likely be 10-15A.   Here is my parts list: GM 84347199 - TC, Cargo Light, Exhaust Brake (useless to me unless I find a means to reconfigure), Aux 1 - 4. 12V 6 Way Pre-Wired Fuse Relay Box Kit with 4 x 40A 4-Pin Relays (link below - some mods required to make negative trigger)            https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0F4KCS43B?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 Various wire sizes (12 AWG - red and black, 14 AWG, 16 AWG multi-colored bundle) Wire termination leads for X61A-X1 (unknown at this time) Crimp connectors/Soldering Gun Heat Shrink Split Wire Loom To be continued...    Cheers
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...