Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

The repair on my two 2019’s is still holding after two years of living outside. I did the permanent fix by removing spoiler and completely sealing the top of the slider.

Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, GN2018 said:

I would look at the “DIY sliding window leak permanent repair.” post in this forum.  It’s a sticky.  I don’t see myself as capable of doing that repair, but if my Denali starts to leak, I’m going to find someone to do that repair as I believe it is the best way to ensure that the leak is fixed properly and gives the best chance at it being for good.


I had to do the epoxy repair mentioned above after 2 dealer attempts. The plastic frame is a design flaw so replacing it with the same thing is just delaying the leak (and when I removed the rear seat, one of the cab vents was popped out so huge opening for water to get through).  But after the fix mentioned here it has been a few years (including a 10k mile 3-week trip on the Dempster Hwy which is extremely rough) and no leaks. But I also put sealant around every bolt and washer both sides of the mounting holes (so inside and outside). 

Edited by EXSlider400
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I may have to remove the rear spoiler. It's still leaking in but not nearly as bad. So guess I'll cut all the silicone out and pull the headliner out then the spoiler and seal it all. Either that or I clean it up and trade the truck off. 

Posted

I’m sure you know but you only have to pull the headliner down enough to remove the spoiler nuts. It’s really not that bad. Even if you crease the headliner it’ll straighten out after a day or two…

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Is this still an issue with 2025 trucks? I assume so and if that is the case then I will have to do the fix in the future for my new 2500 (traded in the 2019 1500). 

Posted
2 hours ago, EXSlider400 said:

Is this still an issue with 2025 trucks? I assume so and if that is the case then I will have to do the fix in the future for my new 2500 (traded in the 2019 1500). 


As of March 2023, the TSB 18-NA-383 only covers a repair procedure for 2019-2020 models. The only authorized repair for 2021+ model years is to replace the entire rear window which in my opinion is the better way to fix this issue anyway.

  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 6/23/2025 at 7:00 AM, Z06JPB said:


As of March 2023, the TSB 18-NA-383 only covers a repair procedure for 2019-2020 models. The only authorized repair for 2021+ model years is to replace the entire rear window which in my opinion is the better way to fix this issue anyway.

24-NA-103 covers 2022-2024 for the same 'fix'.

 

Oddly it seems 2021 was skipped, so they may not have shipped a lot of trucks with the rear slider due to covid?

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Wish I would have came here sooner! 2019 trail boss bought with roughly 14,000 miles. Not long after owning it I smell mildew and started investigating. Water had been leaking into the rear window somewhere. The rear headliner was water stained in the whole backseat area. Took it in to my dealer atleast 4 times for this. headliner replaced and rear window along the way. I now have around 84,000 and just the other day noticed a mildew smell again and sure enough the headliner is water stained again. Its currently at the dealer so I cant see what the build date is right now. I'm just hoping they cover they're work performed in the early stages of this now that I'm out of warranty!!! I'm supposed to get an update later today or tomorrow. My dealer has been great to work with but I think I need to get GM involved as this is unacceptable!!

Posted

Good luck…….Both of our 2019’s remain leak free after silicone and a top layer of windshield sealant. Been two years 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...