Jump to content

Rear window leak

Demon
 Share

Recommended Posts

Traction Enthusiast

Traction

Posted
Posted

Find the DIY and get that sealant in that thread. Stuff flows real well and binds like crazy. With that and the new replacement the window has survived a real wet Seattle fall and winter. 

  • Replies 3.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Rocz3cqg
Rocz3cqg

Sliding Glass or / and Stop Light Module reported Leaking Situation             Contacts

ShamrockShooter
ShamrockShooter

Well my 2019 early build leaker was replaced with 2020 hopefully not leaker. No signs of an leaks on the window or headliner of the 2020 so fingers crossed. Very impressed with the 10 speed after th

Thomcat
Thomcat

No leaker here so can't do a 100% verification, but the problem seems to be with the spoiler design, regardless of weather the sealer leaks or not, and any cracks in the trim make it worse.  

Posted Images

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Traction said:

Find the DIY and get that sealant in that thread. Stuff flows real well and binds like crazy. With that and the new replacement the window has survived a real wet Seattle fall and winter. 

Hmmm.  Where is the DIY and that sealant?

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted (edited)

After reading more, I'm not more confused than ever about if I want to try to fix this on my own.  It sounds like not putting everything back together correctly can cause more leaks in different places.  That, and I can't figure out what what gap filler adhesive I want to use and it sounds like it might not even be a permanent fix.   No time to take it to the dealer either right now.

 

I was thinking this might work well and is available.  I have white on order to be delivered tomorrow for a black truck (otherwise I couldn't do the project this weekend.  I figure it wouldn't be seen in the trench.  But after looking at the photo on page 229, maybe it would be seen if the bead was too large. 

 

This sucks.

 

Edited by Codeman00
AJMBLAZER Enthusiast

AJMBLAZER

Posted
Posted
8 hours ago, mikystyle said:

I solved my window leak issue. I went out and bought a Ram

Great, so you went out and solved a $15 DIY problem by taking on more debt for a Chrysler product.  Good solution. 

AJMBLAZER Enthusiast

AJMBLAZER

Posted
Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Codeman00 said:

After reading more, I'm not more confused than ever about if I want to try to fix this on my own.  It sounds like not putting everything back together correctly can cause more leaks in different places.  That, and I can't figure out what what gap filler adhesive I want to use and it sounds like it might not even be a permanent fix.   No time to take it to the dealer either right now.

 

I was thinking this might work well and is available.  I have white on order to be delivered tomorrow for a black truck (otherwise I couldn't do the project this weekend.  I figure it wouldn't be seen in the trench.  But after looking at the photo on page 229, maybe it would be seen if the bead was too large. 

 

This sucks.

 

 

You’re over thinking it.
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/216705-rear-window-leak/page/172/?tab=comments#comment-2478714

Follow that link. Read up on @Kcylatt ‘s write ups. I just sealed the top of the window with 3M sealer last Spring and the leaking has stopped. 
 

It’s a crappy way to install a window and GM’s not doing themselves any favors for sure. However with $15 of glass sealer and 30 minutes you’re golden. 

Edited by AJMBLAZER
Glava2876 Enthusiast

Glava2876

Posted
Posted

I had the rear window leak on my 2020 Denali -actually the 3 year anniversary is right now. I had my first leak sighting late last year. They resealed it and it leaked a little while later, so they replaced the entire rear window.
Last month it started leaking again.

After about a week, they replaced the rear window and seal again. So far so good. It was a PIA, but glad I still had warranty.

This is still my favorite truck ever.

DSW1519 Enthusiast

DSW1519

Posted
Posted

I did the same thing as AJMBLAZER did (two posts above). My rear slider was leaking the first week I had the truck in December 2020. Dealer performed the TSB back then. Within a few weeks it started leaking again. I also sealed the top of the window (completely filling the channel). To date still no leaks. Easy to do and good results. 

  • Thanks 1
Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted

Well, I did do the fix.  I used the Barrier Bond gap sealant I linked previously since I couldn't readily find the other sealant.  I thought it was better than regular silicone.  I do wish it flowed a bit better but hopefully since I just had a very small leak after 4 years, that this will fix the issue for awhile. 

 

A big SAFETY WARNING to anyone that attempts this:  When you are removing the headliner, make sure to use cut proof gloves when sliding your hands around the back of the cab to pull down on the brackets. The headliner is fiberglass under the cloth and I cut several fingers pretty bad.  Either take your time working your fingers in between the cab and headliner but best to where cut proof gloves. 

 

Another tip I will give is to have a hot glue gun on hand just in case the rear headliner brackets gets torn from the headliner.  One of them was slightly separated on the corner and the other bracket was completely torn off.  A hot glue gun put it back quickly. 

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
DHBWA Enthusiast

DHBWA

Posted
Posted

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

Codeman00 Enthusiast

Codeman00

Posted
Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, DHBWA said:

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

I disagree.  When the window frame cracks completely, the cracks extends all the way into the cab.  With the headliner in place as stock, if I press upward firmly on the headliner just above the left or right headrest, I can actually see that the headliner covers the cracked frame.  When the headliner is in its stock position, the water will leak through the crack and onto the headliner from behind the headliner.  

8C260677-AD88-4131-82CD-113509DECD80.jpeg

Edited by Codeman00
  • Thanks 1
DHBWA Enthusiast

DHBWA

Posted
Posted

I just spoke to a local glass shop and they have been installing aftermarket sliders that “he said” are made differently and thusly can’t leak (from that location) 

If I replace mine it will be with an aftermarket unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I decided to give it a shot and see what sort of a gong show it would be to a pan drop themed oil change on my 2025 gas truck with the 10 speed. All indications I had seen so far was that there was no way that pan was coming out of there due to the cross over exhaust pipe not allowing enough clearance for the back end of the pan to duck out from under the valve body since it hangs lower than the pan to trans mount flange and certainly the filter does. I never touched any of the exhaust mount hardware at all, be that the engine manifolds to Y pipe, the bracket on the side of the transmission, or the two bolt flange further back behind the trans/transfer case. I put the truck up on four jack stands as there was no way I was going to struggle with that lack of clearance under the truck. The truck was cold as it had sat over night so all the trans fluid had drained to the pan, so I drained the bit of oil that would come out of the level check plug at the bottom near the front of the pan and put the plug back in to reduce the ensuing mess after that. Then took out all but one bolt front and rear and then pushed up on the pan and took out the remaining two bolts and then let the front of the pan tilt and spill out most of its contents into a drain pan. I then popped the pan gasket off its two locating nubs and kicked it a bit to the left side so it was no longer on the flange of the pan to get all the clearance I could and managed to get the pan slipped out of there by swinging the front of the pan to the right but keeping the rear part of the pan inline if not slightly to the left of its mounting flange area and lifting the front of the pan enough to keep the rear part of the pan low enough that allowed the pan to "JUST" slip out without forcing anything. I installed a new trans filter and seal and as per GM instructions on this site I torqued the two bolts to that 44 inch pound goal ( they take an 8 mm socket ) In reversing the pan procedure after I had cleaned up the pan both inside and out completely ( touching the outside of a dirty pan and dealing with installing a gasket at the same time would be a disaster ). First I slipped the pan into place and yes it took me a while as it won't go unless its slid in just at the right angles, then once the back of the pan was into the area of the flange mount, I went and got the gasket and then threaded that through the front of the pan and feeding it under the filter etc and finally working it onto the flange of the pan and lining up the two locating nubs to drop into the pan. Then lifted the pan up into place and get a couple of bolts started and check and make sure the gasket is where its supposed to be as the bolts were being put in. I never used any power tools as I don't have any of the whimsy little drive guns, I use what looks like a small screw driver handle with shank that has a 1/4 drive on the end of it and added an extension and those bolts use a 10 mm socket as some times power tools can bite a person if used on delicate parts ( torqued to 80 inch pounds ). Also should note as per rules around pulling the add plug out first, yes I cracked that loose with a 8 mm Allen bit socket on a 3/8 slim head ratchet as there isn't a lot of room to work with there either due to the exhaust on the right side of the trans.    I already had delco ULV oil on hand and of course the quart bottle pump wasn't made for those small cap threads so I had to use some other containers that the pump would fit and keep transferring oil over into them so a wasted exercise there but indeed the small pump did work just fine as ULV oil is thin and easy to pump in summer time weather. I put in 9.5 quarts as per prior minimum recommendation and yes that cut it pretty close as once I had the truck ( off the jack stands so its level ) and the trans oil up to 167f , about 6 ounces came out but a level kit or what have you could throw it off just enough that it wouldn't be enough oil so probably that 10 quarts is a good amount to put in so one doesn't have to add more oil as when its hot I sure wouldn't want to be adding oil so would have to let the exhaust cool. All I do for warming up the transmission is sit there with it in park and rev it to about 2500 rpm and it takes close to 20 minutes to get it up to that lower limit of 167f, weird how it will warm up more doing that then by driving it, I am not real keen on power braking the truck to get the temp up there and don't seem to have to either. By the way I only have 9000 miles on the truck so probably not a very good payback on doing it that soon and the magnets had such a minor thin layer of fines on them so that was good to see and the color of the oil was a darker red then new oil but still looked very good as it should and I've not done any towing with it so its been living a pretty easy life so far. The filter is made in such a way that its next to impossible to pull out the filter media but there certainly was some fines showing up there which makes sense give the trans having to break in.    I hadn't really planned on explaining this much of what I had done since there are various instruction videos kicking around or I think so, as the gist of my message as that by fluke or what have you, for some reason my truck has just enough clearance to slip the pan out from the trans. Of course there is no guarantee that other trucks like this in general will also allow the pan to be taken out without messing with the exhaust as I expect its probably a crap shoot if it will or won't, I was just happy to find out that mine would work and avoid all the other struggling and possibly damaging things in the process,     
    • BCGM
      Fog Lamps 2024 2500 HD

      By BCGM · Posted

      Do you fellas think Fog Lamps would  be a good upgrade for our 2024 2500 HD Custom ? As you probably know it did not come with them ,  Would you put in GM Chevy parts ? Do they get wired up to the switch panel ( Upfitter or whatever the correct terminology is ) on the dash ? Thanks
    • davester
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By davester · Posted

      It would depend on what you do to lower it.
    • txab
      Navigating senior years.

      By txab · Posted

      You got a 4 legged walker or a 4 wheel rollater?
    • GN2018
      Looking at ordering a '26 WT because I want a std cab, std bed

      By GN2018 · Posted

      Does lowering the truck change its towing capacity?  I wouldn't mind lowering mine, but I loan it out a few times during the summer for my daughter to pull her travel trailer (5,000lbs).

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...