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Posted

Find the DIY and get that sealant in that thread. Stuff flows real well and binds like crazy. With that and the new replacement the window has survived a real wet Seattle fall and winter. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Traction said:

Find the DIY and get that sealant in that thread. Stuff flows real well and binds like crazy. With that and the new replacement the window has survived a real wet Seattle fall and winter. 

Hmmm.  Where is the DIY and that sealant?

Posted (edited)

After reading more, I'm not more confused than ever about if I want to try to fix this on my own.  It sounds like not putting everything back together correctly can cause more leaks in different places.  That, and I can't figure out what what gap filler adhesive I want to use and it sounds like it might not even be a permanent fix.   No time to take it to the dealer either right now.

 

I was thinking this might work well and is available.  I have white on order to be delivered tomorrow for a black truck (otherwise I couldn't do the project this weekend.  I figure it wouldn't be seen in the trench.  But after looking at the photo on page 229, maybe it would be seen if the bead was too large. 

 

This sucks.

 

Edited by Codeman00
Posted
8 hours ago, mikystyle said:

I solved my window leak issue. I went out and bought a Ram

Great, so you went out and solved a $15 DIY problem by taking on more debt for a Chrysler product.  Good solution. 

Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, Codeman00 said:

After reading more, I'm not more confused than ever about if I want to try to fix this on my own.  It sounds like not putting everything back together correctly can cause more leaks in different places.  That, and I can't figure out what what gap filler adhesive I want to use and it sounds like it might not even be a permanent fix.   No time to take it to the dealer either right now.

 

I was thinking this might work well and is available.  I have white on order to be delivered tomorrow for a black truck (otherwise I couldn't do the project this weekend.  I figure it wouldn't be seen in the trench.  But after looking at the photo on page 229, maybe it would be seen if the bead was too large. 

 

This sucks.

 

 

You’re over thinking it.
https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/216705-rear-window-leak/page/172/?tab=comments#comment-2478714

Follow that link. Read up on @Kcylatt ‘s write ups. I just sealed the top of the window with 3M sealer last Spring and the leaking has stopped. 
 

It’s a crappy way to install a window and GM’s not doing themselves any favors for sure. However with $15 of glass sealer and 30 minutes you’re golden. 

Edited by AJMBLAZER
Posted

I had the rear window leak on my 2020 Denali -actually the 3 year anniversary is right now. I had my first leak sighting late last year. They resealed it and it leaked a little while later, so they replaced the entire rear window.
Last month it started leaking again.

After about a week, they replaced the rear window and seal again. So far so good. It was a PIA, but glad I still had warranty.

This is still my favorite truck ever.

Posted

I did the same thing as AJMBLAZER did (two posts above). My rear slider was leaking the first week I had the truck in December 2020. Dealer performed the TSB back then. Within a few weeks it started leaking again. I also sealed the top of the window (completely filling the channel). To date still no leaks. Easy to do and good results. 

  • Thanks 1
Posted

Well, I did do the fix.  I used the Barrier Bond gap sealant I linked previously since I couldn't readily find the other sealant.  I thought it was better than regular silicone.  I do wish it flowed a bit better but hopefully since I just had a very small leak after 4 years, that this will fix the issue for awhile. 

 

A big SAFETY WARNING to anyone that attempts this:  When you are removing the headliner, make sure to use cut proof gloves when sliding your hands around the back of the cab to pull down on the brackets. The headliner is fiberglass under the cloth and I cut several fingers pretty bad.  Either take your time working your fingers in between the cab and headliner but best to where cut proof gloves. 

 

Another tip I will give is to have a hot glue gun on hand just in case the rear headliner brackets gets torn from the headliner.  One of them was slightly separated on the corner and the other bracket was completely torn off.  A hot glue gun put it back quickly. 

  • Like 2
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

Posted (edited)
23 hours ago, DHBWA said:

I’ve read about 1/2 of the 200+ posts and haven’t seen it mentioned that if the leak is from the cracked window frame it shouldn’t get the headliner. A wet headliner almost certainly is a leak from the spoiler attachments…???

I disagree.  When the window frame cracks completely, the cracks extends all the way into the cab.  With the headliner in place as stock, if I press upward firmly on the headliner just above the left or right headrest, I can actually see that the headliner covers the cracked frame.  When the headliner is in its stock position, the water will leak through the crack and onto the headliner from behind the headliner.  

8C260677-AD88-4131-82CD-113509DECD80.jpeg

Edited by Codeman00
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I just spoke to a local glass shop and they have been installing aftermarket sliders that “he said” are made differently and thusly can’t leak (from that location) 

If I replace mine it will be with an aftermarket unit.

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