Jump to content

What did you pay for your truck?

fishingtruck
 Share

Recommended Posts

HBKidJr Enthusiast

HBKidJr

Posted
Posted
16 hours ago, Jglew82 said:

I'm betting he gets calls this weekend, especially if they are a volume dealer. This happens to be not only end of month, but also end of 2Q19...

I had a text waiting for me this morning when I woke up. Unfortunately this happens to be the volume dealer that has a decent price on the truck but giving me next to nothing for my trade. I'm standing firm. Like you guys said, they need me, not the other way around.

 

I actually had one salesman from a different dealer argue with me, straight up argue with me, about an offer another dealer gave me. When I sent him a screenshot of the email, he said it wasn't a similarly optioned truck. When I then sent him the VIN, he got aggressive. At that point, I told him I wouldn't buy a new vehicle from him if he sold it for $10k. 

  • Replies 1.5k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

nino
nino

MSRP: 61k my price: 48k   Here is what i did recently to get 20% off of my truck.  On the last week of August i stopped by every dealership in my local area (6).  For the first 4 dealer

entrpnr
entrpnr

Got a 2020 LT trail boss this weekend MSRP 55,105 Discounted to 44,147 Was out the door for 49k (no trade in so tax was high) This is my first modern Chevy. I had a 68 Chevelle that I restored

Daverado
Daverado

Of course.  A year-old truck is worth less, you should expect to pay less.  Resale value is definitely lower.  Even if you're buying it "new", as soon as you drive it off the lot it's a year older tha

Posted Images

Jglew82 Enthusiast

Jglew82

Posted
Posted
2 minutes ago, HBKidJr said:

I had a text waiting for me this morning when I woke up. Unfortunately this happens to be the volume dealer that has a decent price on the truck but giving me next to nothing for my trade. I'm standing firm. Like you guys said, they need me, not the other way around.

 

I actually had one salesman from a different dealer argue with me, straight up argue with me, about an offer another dealer gave me. When I sent him a screenshot of the email, he said it wasn't a similarly optioned truck. When I then sent him the VIN, he got aggressive. At that point, I told him I wouldn't buy a new vehicle from him if he sold it for $10k. 

Good on you for holding your ground; they're putting their chips on making the money on your trade.

 

Sounds like what you were dealing with is the typical scenario with salesfolks - inflated ego and inability to admit when they're wrong. 

AFBeale Enthusiast

AFBeale

Posted
Posted

Picked up a 2019 Sierra SLT today.  MSRP was $59,810 and was able to get the price down to $ 47,200 before TTL

b00001 Enthusiast

b00001

Posted
Posted

I picked out a '19 AT4, had Sunroof, Prem Pkg, Tech package with all the cams, Performance Pkg with intake and exhaust.  Sticker was $66,5xx and they were advertising it at $56,500.  It comes time for the numbers game and of course, their "advertised price" included every rebate available all stacked.  HA!  They came back with their piece of paper, their sales price was higher, much higher than advertised and they would not even give me KBB TRADE IN (Dealer Trade in Value) on my '18 SLT.  I stood up, thanked them for their time and left in my "old" truck.  These guys are supposed to be the VOLUME dealer in my town.  HA!  I guess my town has too many people buying trucks.  

brianc636 Enthusiast

brianc636

Posted
Posted

I’ve used the spreadsheet and NADA with two different dealers thus far and both have scoffed at the number I offered.

One dealer had a truck at 66,500 MSRP with 11,200 in incentives. I plugged all of the numbers in and assumed 4% profit getting the truck just below 52K.

The GM called me after I emailed a sales person and proceeded to tell me they didn’t have that much in the truck to give up and they spend a lot of time and money to make sure their internet price is one of the most competitive around.

The other dealer I spoke with just said no. No other negotiating, just no.

I’m with everyone else, I do question the validity of spreadsheet’s accuracy because I’m usually a pretty decent negotiator because I’m always willing to walk away and use a plan b, c or d if necessary.

txat4 Enthusiast

txat4

Posted
Posted
On 6/28/2019 at 8:35 AM, HBKidJr said:

I had a text waiting for me this morning when I woke up. Unfortunately this happens to be the volume dealer that has a decent price on the truck but giving me next to nothing for my trade. I'm standing firm. Like you guys said, they need me, not the other way around.

 

I actually had one salesman from a different dealer argue with me, straight up argue with me, about an offer another dealer gave me. When I sent him a screenshot of the email, he said it wasn't a similarly optioned truck. When I then sent him the VIN, he got aggressive. At that point, I told him I wouldn't buy a new vehicle from him if he sold it for $10k. 

Hell, I had a call yesterday asking if I had purchased a truck yet.  Told the guy, sure did.  It's the end of the month, keep holding out and stand firm.  

brianc636 Enthusiast

brianc636

Posted
Posted
I’ve used the spreadsheet and NADA with two different dealers thus far and both have scoffed at the number I offered.

One dealer had a truck at 66,500 MSRP with 11,200 in incentives. I plugged all of the numbers in and assumed 4% profit getting the truck just below 52K.

The GM called me after I emailed a sales person and proceeded to tell me they didn’t have that much in the truck to give up and they spend a lot of time and money to make sure their internet price is one of the most competitive around.

The other dealer I spoke with just said no. No other negotiating, just no.

I’m with everyone else, I do question the validity of spreadsheet’s accuracy because I’m usually a pretty decent negotiator because I’m always willing to walk away and use a plan b, c or d if necessary.



Just got an email from the GM, they offered the truck to me at 53,500 if I finance all of it through GM (which I can before the wife gets her employee discount at the bank). I’d like to see it closer to 52 flat. What’s my move?
jlong1984 Enthusiast

jlong1984

Posted
Posted

2019 Sierra Crew Cab SLT X31 5.3L with SLT Premium Plus and Sunroof.  Sticker was just shy of $60,000, they brought it down to almost $45,000 before TTL. I ended up getting around $10,000 off the sticker out the door. I feel okay with the deal. It was a retired service loaner with 2,500 miles which helped on the price. They also gave me a fair number for my 2016 Silverado trade. 

  • Like 1
txat4 Enthusiast

txat4

Posted
Posted
On 6/29/2019 at 11:57 AM, brianc636 said:

 

 


Just got an email from the GM, they offered the truck to me at 53,500 if I finance all of it through GM (which I can before the wife gets her employee discount at the bank). I’d like to see it closer to 52 flat. What’s my move?

 

 

I've used that spreadsheet on my wife's car and my car.  Worked both times.  Don't let the dealer jack you around.  They need to sell the vehicle more than you need it.  This is how they get their bonuses from the manufacturer etc.  My fully loaded AT4 came to $53284 and some change and they took my offer to the penny.  You need to ask them if everyone gets all the incentives and what is actually included in that money they are offering.  Some of those discounts could be if you have a lease etc.  

brianc636 Enthusiast

brianc636

Posted
Posted
I've used that spreadsheet on my wife's car and my car.  Worked both times.  Don't let the dealer jack you around.  They need to sell the vehicle more than you need it.  This is how they get their bonuses from the manufacturer etc.  My fully loaded AT4 came to $53284 and some change and they took my offer to the penny.  You need to ask them if everyone gets all the incentives and what is actually included in that money they are offering.  Some of those discounts could be if you have a lease etc.  



I don’t have a lease and the GM told me the $7798 listed on the website is based on MSRP value and not any invoice based incentives.

I responded back to him already and said for full financing he needs to get to 52 flat.

txat4 Enthusiast

txat4

Posted
Posted
6 minutes ago, brianc636 said:

 

 


I don’t have a lease and the GM told me the $7798 listed on the website is based on MSRP value and not any invoice based incentives.

I responded back to him already and said for full financing he needs to get to 52 flat.
 

 

 

That's good you are holding strong. They make money regardless as GM pays them for moving the vehicles. They just are not seeing the profit they want from you. Let them get that off another customer not as educated. 

  • Like 1
brianc636 Enthusiast

brianc636

Posted
Posted
That's good you are holding strong. They make money regardless as GM pays them for moving the vehicles. They just are not seeing the profit they want from you. Let them get that off another customer not as educated. 

 

 

Thanks, I want the truck but can live without it, especially since my kid doesn’t technically get my car for another 5 months.

 

I’d like for them to swap the steps on it to the off road ones at that price but I’m probably being greedy at this point.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Another JR
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By Another JR · Posted

      Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • newdude
      Gas fill door

      By newdude · Posted

      Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...