Jump to content

Anyone start tearing down a 2019 to install sound system?

WhineyTTwins
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 635
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Chris walker
Chris walker

I fiber glassed my own enclosure for the AT4. I learned a lot of useful information if anyone else decides to glass a box in the new series of trucks. I've included a list of materials, goals, lessons

Chris walker
Chris walker

Ron,   You are correct. The Bose amp is behind the rear seat and that is where you will connect for the AT4 and the Denali. The non Bose system connection is at the firewall (you will not us

MadCaddie
MadCaddie

The Bose system does not sound good in the 2019s.  For the average listner they will be fine I guess but definitely not what I'd call good.  Not that any bose system is great persay but it's disappoin

Posted Images

Black02Silverado Senior Enthusiast

Black02Silverado

Posted
Posted

Interesting that they are listing a Cheyenne model.  Looks like one will be out in the near future.

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted
15 hours ago, JacobC1983 said:

1.jpg

2.jpg

3.jpg

Nice! Thank you.

 

Now I just need the exploded diagrams for the speaker locations in the doors, dash, and for the subwoofer. Do you know if the dealer will let customers buy the service manual with the diagrams for the new models yet? I'm guessing it will be a while before the Haynes manuals come out.

JacobC1983 Enthusiast

JacobC1983

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, ApertureX said:

Nice! Thank you.

 

Now I just need the exploded diagrams for the speaker locations in the doors, dash, and for the subwoofer. Do you know if the dealer will let customers buy the service manual with the diagrams for the new models yet? I'm guessing it will be a while before the Haynes manuals come out.

I just asked for those at the dealer and they printed them out for me.  When you tear yours apart will you make a video I can follow. I’m having a hard time with mine. 

ApertureX Enthusiast

ApertureX

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, JacobC1983 said:

I just asked for those at the dealer and they printed them out for me.  When you tear yours apart will you make a video I can follow. I’m having a hard time with mine. 

I'll see if I can either video or do step by step pictures. Right now I'm waiting on some financial stuff to be completed and then place the special order. It will probably be 4 months at the earliest that I will have my 2019.

 

I'm researching everything now so that I have a better idea of what I'm going to run into. Right now I've got a 2000 watt Pioneer system in a 2013 VW Passat that I installed, but if I'm going all the way with the High Country, I might as well upgrade the components too. :)

alipor Enthusiast

alipor

Posted
Posted

Does anyone know if the head unit is a carry over from the 18's (bose)? Nav TV doesn't have anything yet for the 19's. My truck gets built next week so I am hoping to see it by end of the month then get into having someone do a stereo.

  • 2 weeks later...
GMC-AT Senior Enthusiast

GMC-AT

Posted
Posted (edited)

I really think the new BOSE in the 2019 is better when compared for previous gen...especially when you take most the base out of the BOSE and apply to external sub. I just left the the factory stuff alone....and added a little kick. 

 

This may help some of you.  This box was custom made fiberglass to fit directly inside the factory storage box that comes with higher trim crew cab. Just a single 10in (plenty for my age) still need to clean up the amp a little.. but you get the idea. Also have a base control knob up front. 

 

sub.thumb.jpg.56b3ca127a2f56892eec05d43513a06f.jpg

Edited by GMC-AT
  • Like 3
JacobC1983 Enthusiast

JacobC1983

Posted
Posted
50 minutes ago, GMC-AT said:

I really think the new BOSE in the 2019 is better when compared for previous gen...especially when you take most the base out of the BOSE and apply to external sub. I just left the the factory stuff alone....and added a little kick. 

 

This may help some of you.  This box was custom made fiberglass to fit directly inside the factory storage box that comes with higher trim crew cab. Just a single 10in (plenty for my age) still need to clean up the amp a little.. but you get the idea. Also have a base control knob up front. 

 

sub.thumb.jpg.56b3ca127a2f56892eec05d43513a06f.jpg

Any chance you could show us how you got behind the dash to wire it into the factory stereo?  Does your truck have the center console?

JacobC1983 Enthusiast

JacobC1983

Posted
Posted
58 minutes ago, GMC-AT said:

Yes, full center console. I didn't do the install.. had a shop do it. 

Well crud. That’s the part I can’t figure out. Any chance you could ask the them how they got behind the dash?  Where all the screws are (and how many) to remove the black trim piece that encompasses the climate controls etc.

  • Like 1
alipor Enthusiast

alipor

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, JacobC1983 said:

Well crud. That’s the part I can’t figure out. Any chance you could ask the them how they got behind the dash?  Where all the screws are (and how many) to remove the black trim piece that encompasses the climate controls etc.

Do you have bose? If you happen to get it out, can you take pictures? Nav TV doesn't have anything for 19's yet. I'm guessing they need pictures of the back of the headunit where everything connects to make up a system to get a clean output.

JacobC1983 Enthusiast

JacobC1983

Posted
Posted
4 minutes ago, alipor said:

Do you have bose? If you happen to get it out, can you take pictures? Nav TV doesn't have anything for 19's yet. I'm guessing they need pictures of the back of the headunit where everything connects to make up a system to get a clean output.

Yes I will.  I just can’t figure out how to get behind there yet.

alipor Enthusiast

alipor

Posted
Posted
1 minute ago, JacobC1983 said:

Yes I will.  I just can’t figure out how to get behind there yet.

Thanks, I've only seen videos for the 18's to remove the headunit, and I'm not sure how similar they are. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • AidenVorpagel
      cam upgrade in CA

      By AidenVorpagel · Posted

      hello I recently bought a 2012 gmc 1500 with a 5.3 and have a AFM disabler on it I'm interested in doing a cam but I'm worried if I remove the AFM system I will fail smog does anyone have info if they are able to detect that or a work around to it (not talking about hot smogging) please let me know thank you  
    • B14Sierra
      Noise after AFM delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Did you figure it out?
    • B14Sierra
      Possible lifter tick after DOD delete

      By B14Sierra · Posted

      Update. I started chasing down my symptoms. Started first with pulling valve covers and looked at everything. Everything looked good and couldn't hear or feel anything different. Then a compression test. 240 psi or really close on each cylinder. I was worried I was a tooth off of timing. Not bad for an engine with 173,000. Granted I did put new heads on. I sprayed water around the injector area to see if I could hear a change. Nothing. I hooked up my new hp tuner which I should have done in the first place but I don't really know what I'm looking at just yet but am learning. I noticed the fuel trims were way off so that told me I have to have either a bad injector or exhaust leak. New injectors, so I did the shop vac on blower and in the tail pipe. Sprayed soapy water and found the exhaust flange on the drivers side was leaking. I didn't think it would be that considereding I pulled the heads and left the manifolds attached. I did have the transmission replaced not long ago. They must have not seated them properly but I guess I didn't notice. I put in new gaskets on both sides. Which by the way isn't a bad job but I had a hard time getting them to seal right. Took two attempts. Reset the fuel trims and the ticking is gone, engine runs smooth and acceleration has improved. Got to feel the real difference with that stage 1 cam. It's not that big of a difference but it does add a little more. It feels like how the truck should have been from the factory.
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...