Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

MY issue is opposite on my 19 RST. Just installed my snow tires in garage and now my brakes are stuck on with all the same codes on dash others are seeing. I torqued rims to 140 lbs and also tried 120 to see if the torquing caused an issue. Also disconnected the battery to see if it would reset the faults, which didn't work. So now I'm stuck with my truck in garage so not a happy camper. Wonder if its something small like air pressure sensors in stock tires out of range or something? Never had any issues with my 14 Silverado when switching to the same snow tires other then having the low air pressure idiot light constantly on. I can get truck out of garage if I use low range and overpower the brakes, which I might need to do if I call roadside. 

 

Dan

Posted
19 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

MY issue is opposite on my 19 RST. Just installed my snow tires in garage and now my brakes are stuck on with all the same codes on dash others are seeing. I torqued rims to 140 lbs and also tried 120 to see if the torquing caused an issue. Also disconnected the battery to see if it would reset the faults, which didn't work. So now I'm stuck with my truck in garage so not a happy camper. Wonder if its something small like air pressure sensors in stock tires out of range or something? Never had any issues with my 14 Silverado when switching to the same snow tires other then having the low air pressure idiot light constantly on. I can get truck out of garage if I use low range and overpower the brakes, which I might need to do if I call roadside. 

 

Dan

did you try stepping on the brake and turning off the parking brake? it wont release unless your foot is on the foot brake

Posted
30 minutes ago, bass mechanic said:

did you try stepping on the brake and turning off the parking brake? it wont release unless your foot is on the foot brake

Oh yes tried many things before signing up on here. I'm kind of guessing it might be linked to the tire pressure sensors being absent thus causing a fault. Also noticed my stock 20" rim/tires are about 2" taller then my winters, which I assumed the fitment/size would have been same as my 14 Silverado, which had 18" rims and 275 tires. In process of putting on my reg 20" rims/tires and see what happens from there....thx

 

Dan

Posted
57 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

MY issue is opposite on my 19 RST. Just installed my snow tires in garage and now my brakes are stuck on with all the same codes on dash others are seeing. I torqued rims to 140 lbs and also tried 120 to see if the torquing caused an issue. Also disconnected the battery to see if it would reset the faults, which didn't work. So now I'm stuck with my truck in garage so not a happy camper. Wonder if its something small like air pressure sensors in stock tires out of range or something? Never had any issues with my 14 Silverado when switching to the same snow tires other then having the low air pressure idiot light constantly on. I can get truck out of garage if I use low range and overpower the brakes, which I might need to do if I call roadside. 

 

Dan

Are the winter wheels the same ones you used on your '14?

 

Are the rims hitting on the calipers?

(with the truck jacked up, can you turn the wheel(s) by hand?)

Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

Oh yes tried many things before signing up on here. I'm kind of guessing it might be linked to the tire pressure sensors being absent thus causing a fault. Also noticed my stock 20" rim/tires are about 2" taller then my winters, which I assumed the fitment/size would have been same as my 14 Silverado, which had 18" rims and 275 tires. In process of putting on my reg 20" rims/tires and see what happens from there....thx

 

Dan

Did you try putting your summer rims / tires back on to see if this relieves the fault?

 

Edit:  Just saw you are doing that now.

         Let us know how it goes.

Edited by Vicarod
Didn't read entire post...
Posted

Just put back my summer 20s and my brakes released for whatever reason so truck is now at least mobile. But unfortunately all the codes are still there and brakes work very poorly. My truck has over 20,000 kms and shortly after new I did get all the same codes come on when I took a highway onramp quickly. It then somehow reset itself same day when truck was off for a bit and had no problems afterwards till now. Hoping it resets itself as I'll experiment today.....Gonna call my dealer in morning if it doesn't resolve itself. These fault codes drastically increases brake distance in winter conditions compared to dry pavement. Really isn't safe to drive at all especially in the snow. Fingers crossed it resets itself as it did earlier last summer. 

 

Dan

Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Are the winter wheels the same ones you used on your '14?

 

Are the rims hitting on the calipers?

(with the truck jacked up, can you turn the wheel(s) by hand?)

yes same winters I had on my 14. Winters are 17" rims/265 tires. I believe the base Silverado's also come with 17" rims and haven't noticed any clearance issues. At this point the only thing I can think of is the tire pressure sensors are needed so that it doesn't cause a fault. Really weird. 

 

Dan

Posted
6 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

yes same winters I had on my 14. Winters are 17" rims/265 tires. I believe the base Silverado's also come with 17" rims and haven't noticed any clearance issues. At this point the only thing I can think of is the tire pressure sensors are needed so that it doesn't cause a fault. Really weird. 

 

Dan

Compare the inside of the winter rims with the inside of the ones that came on the truck. 

 

You might find that the inside of the rim is interfering with / pushing the caliper sideways. 

 

If you can't turn wheel with the truck jacked up try turning it with the wheel is loosened but not removed.

 

I guess my opinion is worth what it cost, but I can't imagine, a wheel sensor would prevent the brakes from releasing. 

(after all, what would happen if a few years as sensor batteries begin to fail --- ???)

 

 

Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, redwngr said:

Compare the inside of the winter rims with the inside of the ones that came on the truck. 

 

You might find that the inside of the rim is interfering with / pushing the caliper sideways. 

 

If you can't turn wheel with the truck jacked up try turning it with the wheel is loosened but not removed.

 

I guess my opinion is worth what it cost, but I can't imagine, a wheel sensor would prevent the brakes from releasing. 

(after all, what would happen if a few years as sensor batteries begin to fail --- ???)

 

 

I already swapped them out, but you do have a good point. It looks like the caliper/rotor combo measurement is about 15" and although my winter rims are "17", they do have an inner lip that does dip down to around the 15" mark. So seeing that something caused an issue, I can only bet that is the culprit. thx

Upload a couple pics.....hard to see the inner lip as I oiled up the rims good. 

Camera played a trick as the winters are actually about 2" less height then stocker

 

Dan

rim.jpg

rim2.jpg

Edited by Dano89
Posted

After 87 days I got my truck back.  The master cylinder was replaced.  I have driven it about 150 miles and all is good to this point.  Still don't think it should have taken 87 days to fix this but what can you do.  I am now moving my BBB complaint to settlement to see what I can get for the lost time of use for my vehicle.

 

Good luck to all of those still waiting.

Posted
10 hours ago, Joe Sargent said:

After 87 days I got my truck back.  The master cylinder was replaced.  I have driven it about 150 miles and all is good to this point.  Still don't think it should have taken 87 days to fix this but what can you do.  I am now moving my BBB complaint to settlement to see what I can get for the lost time of use for my vehicle.

 

Good luck to all of those still waiting.

Good lord man, I never thought I'd see you get the truck back while following these posts. Hopefully yours stays fixed, I saw @Booger T post on the previous page where it happened to him again after the fix was done months ago.

Posted

Took mine to dealer this afternoon. Code showed the brake control module needed reprogramed.  Apparently back in January GM hadn't identified the need to reprogram them. There is not an actual master cylinder in the T1's. Tech says the brake control module is what controls the pump for the brake assist. Time will tell if the reprograming  takes care of the problem.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/10/2019 at 6:51 AM, Dano89 said:

Just put back my summer 20s and my brakes released for whatever reason so truck is now at least mobile. But unfortunately all the codes are still there and brakes work very poorly. My truck has over 20,000 kms and shortly after new I did get all the same codes come on when I took a highway onramp quickly. It then somehow reset itself same day when truck was off for a bit and had no problems afterwards till now. Hoping it resets itself as I'll experiment today.....Gonna call my dealer in morning if it doesn't resolve itself. These fault codes drastically increases brake distance in winter conditions compared to dry pavement. Really isn't safe to drive at all especially in the snow. Fingers crossed it resets itself as it did earlier last summer. 

 

Dan

I can relate to this. When my wheels were  being swapped to 24s, this issue happened moments I left the shop. DIC lit up like a xmas tree and had to letterally stand on the brake pedal to come to a stop, called dealer about the problem and got it scheduled next day. Drove it home carefully and slowly, then next morning only CEL was on, that same afternoon CEL was off and everything seemed to work properly. Got dealer to scan the problem although all the lights were off and came back with a short in the brake master module. Dealer special ordered the part and will be warranty replaced. 

Posted

I have a 2020 with 750 miles and This happened to me they said they couldn’t duplicate it I I took the battery cable off and it rebooted it 

 

Posted
On 11/10/2019 at 9:32 PM, Joe Sargent said:

After 87 days I got my truck back.  The master cylinder was replaced.  I have driven it about 150 miles and all is good to this point.  Still don't think it should have taken 87 days to fix this but what can you do.  I am now moving my BBB complaint to settlement to see what I can get for the lost time of use for my vehicle.

 

Good luck to all of those still waiting.

BBB is useless go lemon law. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.5k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,903
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    RyGuy43
    Newest Member
    RyGuy43
    Joined
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 369 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf
    • Take an automotive stethoscope to the vacuum pump. Iirc those tick as well. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...