Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

MY issue is opposite on my 19 RST. Just installed my snow tires in garage and now my brakes are stuck on with all the same codes on dash others are seeing. I torqued rims to 140 lbs and also tried 120 to see if the torquing caused an issue. Also disconnected the battery to see if it would reset the faults, which didn't work. So now I'm stuck with my truck in garage so not a happy camper. Wonder if its something small like air pressure sensors in stock tires out of range or something? Never had any issues with my 14 Silverado when switching to the same snow tires other then having the low air pressure idiot light constantly on. I can get truck out of garage if I use low range and overpower the brakes, which I might need to do if I call roadside. 

 

Dan

Posted
19 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

MY issue is opposite on my 19 RST. Just installed my snow tires in garage and now my brakes are stuck on with all the same codes on dash others are seeing. I torqued rims to 140 lbs and also tried 120 to see if the torquing caused an issue. Also disconnected the battery to see if it would reset the faults, which didn't work. So now I'm stuck with my truck in garage so not a happy camper. Wonder if its something small like air pressure sensors in stock tires out of range or something? Never had any issues with my 14 Silverado when switching to the same snow tires other then having the low air pressure idiot light constantly on. I can get truck out of garage if I use low range and overpower the brakes, which I might need to do if I call roadside. 

 

Dan

did you try stepping on the brake and turning off the parking brake? it wont release unless your foot is on the foot brake

Posted
30 minutes ago, bass mechanic said:

did you try stepping on the brake and turning off the parking brake? it wont release unless your foot is on the foot brake

Oh yes tried many things before signing up on here. I'm kind of guessing it might be linked to the tire pressure sensors being absent thus causing a fault. Also noticed my stock 20" rim/tires are about 2" taller then my winters, which I assumed the fitment/size would have been same as my 14 Silverado, which had 18" rims and 275 tires. In process of putting on my reg 20" rims/tires and see what happens from there....thx

 

Dan

Posted
57 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

MY issue is opposite on my 19 RST. Just installed my snow tires in garage and now my brakes are stuck on with all the same codes on dash others are seeing. I torqued rims to 140 lbs and also tried 120 to see if the torquing caused an issue. Also disconnected the battery to see if it would reset the faults, which didn't work. So now I'm stuck with my truck in garage so not a happy camper. Wonder if its something small like air pressure sensors in stock tires out of range or something? Never had any issues with my 14 Silverado when switching to the same snow tires other then having the low air pressure idiot light constantly on. I can get truck out of garage if I use low range and overpower the brakes, which I might need to do if I call roadside. 

 

Dan

Are the winter wheels the same ones you used on your '14?

 

Are the rims hitting on the calipers?

(with the truck jacked up, can you turn the wheel(s) by hand?)

Posted (edited)
27 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

Oh yes tried many things before signing up on here. I'm kind of guessing it might be linked to the tire pressure sensors being absent thus causing a fault. Also noticed my stock 20" rim/tires are about 2" taller then my winters, which I assumed the fitment/size would have been same as my 14 Silverado, which had 18" rims and 275 tires. In process of putting on my reg 20" rims/tires and see what happens from there....thx

 

Dan

Did you try putting your summer rims / tires back on to see if this relieves the fault?

 

Edit:  Just saw you are doing that now.

         Let us know how it goes.

Edited by Vicarod
Didn't read entire post...
Posted

Just put back my summer 20s and my brakes released for whatever reason so truck is now at least mobile. But unfortunately all the codes are still there and brakes work very poorly. My truck has over 20,000 kms and shortly after new I did get all the same codes come on when I took a highway onramp quickly. It then somehow reset itself same day when truck was off for a bit and had no problems afterwards till now. Hoping it resets itself as I'll experiment today.....Gonna call my dealer in morning if it doesn't resolve itself. These fault codes drastically increases brake distance in winter conditions compared to dry pavement. Really isn't safe to drive at all especially in the snow. Fingers crossed it resets itself as it did earlier last summer. 

 

Dan

Posted
1 hour ago, redwngr said:

Are the winter wheels the same ones you used on your '14?

 

Are the rims hitting on the calipers?

(with the truck jacked up, can you turn the wheel(s) by hand?)

yes same winters I had on my 14. Winters are 17" rims/265 tires. I believe the base Silverado's also come with 17" rims and haven't noticed any clearance issues. At this point the only thing I can think of is the tire pressure sensors are needed so that it doesn't cause a fault. Really weird. 

 

Dan

Posted
6 minutes ago, Dano89 said:

yes same winters I had on my 14. Winters are 17" rims/265 tires. I believe the base Silverado's also come with 17" rims and haven't noticed any clearance issues. At this point the only thing I can think of is the tire pressure sensors are needed so that it doesn't cause a fault. Really weird. 

 

Dan

Compare the inside of the winter rims with the inside of the ones that came on the truck. 

 

You might find that the inside of the rim is interfering with / pushing the caliper sideways. 

 

If you can't turn wheel with the truck jacked up try turning it with the wheel is loosened but not removed.

 

I guess my opinion is worth what it cost, but I can't imagine, a wheel sensor would prevent the brakes from releasing. 

(after all, what would happen if a few years as sensor batteries begin to fail --- ???)

 

 

Posted (edited)
49 minutes ago, redwngr said:

Compare the inside of the winter rims with the inside of the ones that came on the truck. 

 

You might find that the inside of the rim is interfering with / pushing the caliper sideways. 

 

If you can't turn wheel with the truck jacked up try turning it with the wheel is loosened but not removed.

 

I guess my opinion is worth what it cost, but I can't imagine, a wheel sensor would prevent the brakes from releasing. 

(after all, what would happen if a few years as sensor batteries begin to fail --- ???)

 

 

I already swapped them out, but you do have a good point. It looks like the caliper/rotor combo measurement is about 15" and although my winter rims are "17", they do have an inner lip that does dip down to around the 15" mark. So seeing that something caused an issue, I can only bet that is the culprit. thx

Upload a couple pics.....hard to see the inner lip as I oiled up the rims good. 

Camera played a trick as the winters are actually about 2" less height then stocker

 

Dan

rim.jpg

rim2.jpg

Edited by Dano89
Posted

After 87 days I got my truck back.  The master cylinder was replaced.  I have driven it about 150 miles and all is good to this point.  Still don't think it should have taken 87 days to fix this but what can you do.  I am now moving my BBB complaint to settlement to see what I can get for the lost time of use for my vehicle.

 

Good luck to all of those still waiting.

Posted
10 hours ago, Joe Sargent said:

After 87 days I got my truck back.  The master cylinder was replaced.  I have driven it about 150 miles and all is good to this point.  Still don't think it should have taken 87 days to fix this but what can you do.  I am now moving my BBB complaint to settlement to see what I can get for the lost time of use for my vehicle.

 

Good luck to all of those still waiting.

Good lord man, I never thought I'd see you get the truck back while following these posts. Hopefully yours stays fixed, I saw @Booger T post on the previous page where it happened to him again after the fix was done months ago.

Posted

Took mine to dealer this afternoon. Code showed the brake control module needed reprogramed.  Apparently back in January GM hadn't identified the need to reprogram them. There is not an actual master cylinder in the T1's. Tech says the brake control module is what controls the pump for the brake assist. Time will tell if the reprograming  takes care of the problem.

  • Like 1
Posted
On 11/10/2019 at 6:51 AM, Dano89 said:

Just put back my summer 20s and my brakes released for whatever reason so truck is now at least mobile. But unfortunately all the codes are still there and brakes work very poorly. My truck has over 20,000 kms and shortly after new I did get all the same codes come on when I took a highway onramp quickly. It then somehow reset itself same day when truck was off for a bit and had no problems afterwards till now. Hoping it resets itself as I'll experiment today.....Gonna call my dealer in morning if it doesn't resolve itself. These fault codes drastically increases brake distance in winter conditions compared to dry pavement. Really isn't safe to drive at all especially in the snow. Fingers crossed it resets itself as it did earlier last summer. 

 

Dan

I can relate to this. When my wheels were  being swapped to 24s, this issue happened moments I left the shop. DIC lit up like a xmas tree and had to letterally stand on the brake pedal to come to a stop, called dealer about the problem and got it scheduled next day. Drove it home carefully and slowly, then next morning only CEL was on, that same afternoon CEL was off and everything seemed to work properly. Got dealer to scan the problem although all the lights were off and came back with a short in the brake master module. Dealer special ordered the part and will be warranty replaced. 

Posted

I have a 2020 with 750 miles and This happened to me they said they couldn’t duplicate it I I took the battery cable off and it rebooted it 

 

Posted
On 11/10/2019 at 9:32 PM, Joe Sargent said:

After 87 days I got my truck back.  The master cylinder was replaced.  I have driven it about 150 miles and all is good to this point.  Still don't think it should have taken 87 days to fix this but what can you do.  I am now moving my BBB complaint to settlement to see what I can get for the lost time of use for my vehicle.

 

Good luck to all of those still waiting.

BBB is useless go lemon law. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Forum Statistics

    250.4k
    Total Topics
    2.7m
    Total Posts
  • Member Statistics

    342,760
    Total Members
    8,960
    Most Online
    MASONV88888888
    Newest Member
    MASONV88888888
    Joined
  • Who's Online   3 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1,512 Guests (See full list)


  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
    • Do you have access to BP fuels? Some stations have Silver 91 E-0 priced the same as their 93 E-10.  There is a local Marathon with 90 alky free for $6 a gallon but I go down the road to BP for $5-ish. They also have a 100 E-0 but that stuff is $10 a pop. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...